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Blowin n' Goin
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Injection Pump Removal and Install
It is actually not as hard as it appears at first. Let’s start here.

-Disconnect both batteries and make sure the terminals are not going to touch the post on the battery.

-Now remove your intake tube with the four bolts going through it to the engine and the clamp on the other end. I found out that removing the tube running from the intercooler to the intake tube gives you more room to work.

-Next remove where the cables come together for throttle and transmission, and unplug the plug from the bottom. You can disconnect the cables and take the whole thing out of the way but I just laid it up out of the way.

-Now the Injection Pump is in clear view. Remove the overflow bottle, hose, and the canister screwed into the timing cover. After removing the canister you will be able to see the bolt on the shaft of the pump.


-Go ahead and remove the fuel line coming from the filter housing to the supply side of the injection pump. Remove the return line, and all 6 of the injector lines going from the injection pump to the injector supply tubes. The injector lines are a 19mm.

-Disconnect the wiring to the injection pump and any other wires that may be connected for other reasons. (Pump wire tap for aftermarket applications)

-You can go ahead and loosen the nut holding the shaft. LOOSEN BUT DON'T REMOVE!!! You still have to get the engine to TDC.

-You will need a small mirror to align the marks on the pump gear and the mark on the timing cover. This is very critical that the engine is on TDC (Top Dead Center). If the marks are off some, you can rotate the engine with the special tool that the manual calls for, which for manual transmission owners it is inserted through the hole on the passenger side of the block back towards the flex plate. Remove the plastic cover and turn the engine until you reach TDC. Or for automatic owners you can remove the cover on the bottom of the bell housing and access the flywheel. Here you can take a screw driver and turn the flywheel until you reach TDC.


-If you have not done so already loosen the nut on the pump shaft. Don’t remove it yet just loosen it. After losing the nut the engine may have turned a bit. Check with your mirror again and see if the engine is still on TDC, of not, adjust.

-Now that you have the engine on TDC you can now remove the two bolts holding the pump bracket to the block, and the 4 nuts holding the pump to the housing. These 4 can be reached with a 9" extension and a ratchet from the back side of the pump. And also remove the nut and lock washer from the shaft. Be careful not to drop the nut or lock washer down the timing cover, if it happens you now have to remove the cover and retrieve your lost parts.

-Now it’s time to remove the injection pump. For this you will need a puller of some sort. Mine consisted of a piece of scrap aluminum with holes drilled in it for the bolts. (You just need to be creative here) You will need two M8 1.24 metric bolts to screw into the pump gear, and another bolt and nut to press against the pump shaft. This bolt in the middle can be any size; it just needs to hold pressure on the shaft while you tighten the metric bolts. This will apply pressure to the pump shaft and press it off the gear.


-After you bread the pump lose form the gear you can now remove the 2 bolts that connect the bracket to the block, and the 4 nuts holding the pump to the timing cover. These need to be already loose in order to press the pump off the gear. Otherwise you may damage something. It’s best to have two people when removing the pump, one to remove the pump itself and the other to watch with a mirror from the front to make sure the key didn’t fall down inside the timing cover. Now you have your pump out. Install is just reverse of removal.


Install

Once you are ready to install the pump back in the truck one critical point is that the key is pointed in the right way. There is an arrow on the key that should be pointed TOWARDS the pump for proper install. Once you position the pump in place you should be able to push the pump far enough in to where you can install the lock washer and the nut on the injection pump shaft. Get your 2 bolts that are used to mount the bracket on the pump to the block in place and get them started, same with the 4 nuts that hold the pump to the timing housing. DO NOT USE THESE BOLTS AND NUTS TO TIGHTEN THE PUMP DOWN! Now tighten the nut on the pump to 15-22 ft/lbs. You will notice it feels like you can’t push the pump in anymore with your hands, now you should be able to tighten the 2 bolts on the bracket and the 4 on the back of the timing cover. This should pull the pump flush with the back side of the timing cover. Now tighten the two bolts on the bracket to 18 ft/lbs and tighten the 4 nuts to 32 ft/lbs. Now you are ready to torque down the injection pump nut to specs, slowly pull on the torque wrench while you tighten the nut to 125 ft/lbs. If the engine turns while you try to tighten the nut, use a screw driver and wedge it on the flex plate or for manual transmission owners here is where that extra set of hands comes in. Have someone hold the engine from turning while you torque the bolt. Be sure you pull very slowly on the torque wrench to torque properly, and if you pull the torque wrench slowly the engine may turn once on you. I was able to tighten it without wedging the flywheel.


-Now connect the return line to the injection pump, it’s easier to do it now while it’s easier to get to.

-Next connect the back set of injector lines first, again it’s easier to connect these first, then the front set. Now do the front set.

-Reconnect all the pump wiring, and anything else you removed, before you put install the housing that holds all your cables.

-Put the oil blow by bottle back on the front of the timing cover and tighten down.

-Install the housing that holds your cables, and then your intake tube. Be sure that your gasket is not damaged on the tube, if so purchase another one or improvise with silicone. Connect the intercooler tube if you removed it. Reconnect the batteries and you’re done.

-Now you’re ready for start up, much easier than it sounds. This process is going to take some patients and time. Start by loosening as many injector lines at the head as possible. I was able to loosen, #1, #3, #4, and #5 easily and that was enough to get it running. Now tap the starter to prime the system, let the fuel pump cycle for 20 seconds and then start cranking. Once you see fuel squirting out of an injector tube, close it off. Keep doing this until you have all of them closed. I got down to having #1 and #3 open and it fired up. Closed them off and let the engine work the air out of the system and it ran like a champ. And while cranking I had my battery charger hooked up to one of the batteries. Just to keep it spinning good.

Here is a link, not sure if its gonna work but its my start up.
http://good-times.webshots.com/video/3059511960074471907DrfHMv

-Good luck with your project.
Nick
 
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