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eh, 6 in one half dozen the other......whereones less theother is greater
 

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Some clarification from wheel/tire experts would be very helpful.

If you take two different 20x9 wheels....
Wheel A has a backspace of 6" and an offset of 25mm (SRT Replicas)
Wheel B has a backspace of 4.5" and an offset of -12 (Many aftermarkets)

If I run an 1.5" spacer on Wheel A the footprint is in the same location with respect to the fender as Wheel B.

Is Wheel A with spacer harder on wheel bearings and ball joints than Wheel B?
 

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You should be looking at the offset, not so much the backspace.
Why do you say that?

And on the example given above, can someone explain how a wheel that is 9" wide with a backspace of 4.5" has an offset of -12mm. So what I found was that backspace is the measurement of mounting face to the lip of the wheel, and offset if the distance from the mounting face to the centerline of the wheel. How can a 9" wheel with a back space of 4.5 have any offset?
 

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Flying Low: Posted my response to your questions in the thread you started in the wheel section.

jakenbake13: Backspacing includes the wheel lip. Just about every wheel lip seems to be about 1/2" each, so a rim that is listed as 9" wide for the bead mounting surface is actually 10" wide from the outside edges including both bead lips. A 20" x 9" rim with a zero offset will have 5" of backspace.
 

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RAMMSTEIN
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great....... EVERY single search answer I have found about wheel adapters, well bad.....
Looks like I might have to invest in some rims.....DAMN IT!!!!
The question is, what will look better for rims on my truck, black or chrome.
I have them narrowed down to motot metals 951. The question is, I heard the chrome peals and the black ones are cool with the chrome details.
Black and chrome! :rck:



I personally love the way a 12.5 tire looks with a 4.5 backspace and -12 offset rim.
 

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Not all wheel adapters are built the same so yes a lot of them can break causing the wheel to fall off. I was literally going back and forth for 2 years on getting some adapters but have decided to buy new rims with lower offsets. These range anywhere from $100-$300 and i think the majority of people tend to go the cheaper route and thats why they end up with problems. Theres just as many positive reviews as negative ones so it can sometimes be a coin flip using these.
 

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Some clarification from wheel/tire experts would be very helpful.

If you take two different 20x9 wheels....
Wheel A has a backspace of 6" and an offset of 25mm (SRT Replicas)
Wheel B has a backspace of 4.5" and an offset of -12 (Many aftermarkets)

If I run an 1.5" spacer on Wheel A the footprint is in the same location with respect to the fender as Wheel B.

Is Wheel A with spacer harder on wheel bearings and ball joints than Wheel B?
I am in NO WAY a wheel/tire expert. However, I am an engineering student that was taught physics by a NASA Physicist. He actually indirectly touched on this topic in class on day. This is basically what he said.

Wheel spacers/adapters are a cheaper way of doing exactly what a rim with a negative/positive offset. Both have the same negative long term affects. Stock rims are made to keep and equilibrium on the axle shaft resulting in even distribution of weight/stress on ball joints and bearings.

In order for wheel spacers to be "safer" the original studs need to be replaced with longer studs that result in the same length of stud from the wheel spacer as the original studs from the rotor.

Offset rims cause the same amount of damage as stock rims with high quality wheel spacers. Assuming the offset of both the stock rims with wheel spacers and offset aftermarket rims is the same.

Hope this helps.
 

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I am in NO WAY a wheel/tire expert. However, I am an engineering student that was taught physics by a NASA Physicist. He actually indirectly touched on this topic in class on day. This is basically what he said.

Wheel spacers/adapters are a cheaper way of doing exactly what a rim with a negative/positive offset. Both have the same negative long term affects. Stock rims are made to keep and equilibrium on the axle shaft resulting in even distribution of weight/stress on ball joints and bearings.

In order for wheel spacers to be "safer" the original studs need to be replaced with longer studs that result in the same length of stud from the wheel spacer as the original studs from the rotor.

Offset rims cause the same amount of damage as stock rims with high quality wheel spacers. Assuming the offset of both the stock rims with wheel spacers and offset aftermarket rims is the same.

Hope this helps.
Great Reply. :rck:
 

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i agree 100%....thats why i like a wider rim, to counteract as much as possible the side effect. get more wheel sticking out is okay in my book, if the replacement wheel is wider and the width is split inside and outside
 

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JW2010 - great response. From my engineering studies the one factor that I keep thinking about is that even though the wheel footprint in the above options are the same, the 1.5" wheel spacer does extend the length of the axle 1.5". Therefore the moment applied to the bearing/ball joints could be greater. Been along time since I had to do calculations like that.
 

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JW2010 - great response. From my engineering studies the one factor that I keep thinking about is that even though the wheel footprint in the above options are the same, the 1.5" wheel spacer does extend the length of the axle 1.5". Therefore the moment applied to the bearing/ball joints could be greater. Been along time since I had to do calculations like that.
I get what your saying. But don't aftermarket rims "space" the tire farther from the axle by using a greater/lesser offset? I think the aftermarket rims will virtually be equivalent to the stock rims and spacers. It isn't the rim necessarily that causes the greater moment or force on the bearings, it is the distribution of the weight of the tire. Since the tires on both applications are spaced an equal distance from the "stock offset" position they both should have an equal amount of wear. I say the tire causes the greater moment rather than being dependent on the spacer or aftermarket rim because the tire is really the only mass present (when compared to the rims). Just the tire being that far spaced from its equilibrium position causes excessive wear no matter how you get the backspacing.
 

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I get what your saying. But don't aftermarket rims "space" the tire farther from the axle by using a greater/lesser offset? I think the aftermarket rims will virtually be equivalent to the stock rims and spacers. It isn't the rim necessarily that causes the greater moment or force on the bearings, it is the distribution of the weight of the tire. Since the tires on both applications are spaced an equal distance from the "stock offset" position they both should have an equal amount of wear. I say the tire causes the greater moment rather than being dependent on the spacer or aftermarket rim because the tire is really the only mass present (when compared to the rims). Just the tire being that far spaced from its equilibrium position causes excessive wear no matter how you get the backspacing.
I agree.
 

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Squiddy
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Does anyone have a legit source for wheel spacers? All I can find for our trucks are roughly 1.25" spacers on fleabay, and all I really need is 3/8" or a little better. any ideas? I understand that in order to get hub centric spacers they're probably going to be 1-1.25". I just don't want to buy from some clown on ebay who won't answer any questions about his product.
 

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I've been looking too
try wheel adapters.com, spydertrax and rough country I know theres another one I had found when I was looking at doing this along time ago but I cant remember it.
 

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take a look at tulipcitywheels.com they can actually answer questions for you but I suggest no bigger than 12 mm. I personally would get the disk (washer) style (doesn't come with new lug bolts) and then I would go buy some new lug bolts that are the equivalent length of the old lug bolt plus the thickness of the spacer.
 
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