So i bought a 96 neon SOHC and their is two wires hanging from the radiator support wall, two vaccuum hoses hanging from the drivers side front and i don't know what these things are for but i am also having a little trouble because i'm not getting very good gas mileage. I tried starting the car up for my buddy to see what he thought and it wouldn't start til the like fifteenth try and then it smelled like lots of gas, we checked all the plugs and thay were all working. He thinks its either the fuel pressure regulator, injectors, o2 sensor, crank sensor, or just dirty injectors. well i need this car soon for winter or i'm in trouble. If anyone knows more then me which shouldn't be to hard i could really use some help. pretty please. Oh ya i also am trying to replace a front wheel bearing, i took out the codder pin and took that little cap off ( after taking off the wheel) and i can't get the bolt off for the life of me, maybe i just need a air gun but if there is something i'm missing let me know. I'm just a broke college kid trying to make it, so if you could help me out that would be awesome!
I bought a neon from a farmer and i need to fix it fast!
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Can you get us a picture of your engine bay? So that we can see the wires and vacume hoses that are not connected. They could be a problem.
About the wheel bearing. What is so hard about the bolt (nut)? Does the rotor spin and make it hard to hold it and turn the nut? Or is it just that tight?
I used a lug wrench to go between two wheel studs ( with lug nuts on so the threads arent damaged) and held it solid with that while I turned the nut. One question about that too. Do you have the 1/2 inch drive socket to fit the nut? If not I can see it getting rounded off and that will be a bitch to deal with. You can pull off your wheel bearing and take it all apart but you will be better off to take in someplace for the new bearings to be pressed in. You can tap them in with the right size socket and a hammer (same way to take apart but you will be beating the hell out of it to take it apart. (i did or had to rather)
I understand your young, in school and low on cash but I can tell you one thing that you realy need to buy is the Haynes or Chilton manual for your car. They arent much at Autozone and pay for them self over and over again. A must have for the DIY'er!!!! Good luck
About the wheel bearing. What is so hard about the bolt (nut)? Does the rotor spin and make it hard to hold it and turn the nut? Or is it just that tight?
I used a lug wrench to go between two wheel studs ( with lug nuts on so the threads arent damaged) and held it solid with that while I turned the nut. One question about that too. Do you have the 1/2 inch drive socket to fit the nut? If not I can see it getting rounded off and that will be a bitch to deal with. You can pull off your wheel bearing and take it all apart but you will be better off to take in someplace for the new bearings to be pressed in. You can tap them in with the right size socket and a hammer (same way to take apart but you will be beating the hell out of it to take it apart. (i did or had to rather)
I understand your young, in school and low on cash but I can tell you one thing that you realy need to buy is the Haynes or Chilton manual for your car. They arent much at Autozone and pay for them self over and over again. A must have for the DIY'er!!!! Good luck
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ya...what he said.
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or if you're lucky like me and have access to dealerconnect 
I don't have a digital camera but the the two wires are hanging on the front side of the radiator support and have limited length so the box has to mount right in the center of the support in the front on the bottom, they come from a wiring harness that runs along the bottom of the support wall. The two hoses are the hard plastic ones with the rubber elbows and they are hanging down on the drivers side in front of the radiator wall too. I talked to a guy at the shop and he told me the same thing that i would have to have him press the bearings in or beat them out, you don't think i would bend the stud prying on them? ya i was just beating on my 1/2 drive and could not get that nut to bugge.
I got that nut off the transaxle end but now the only thing keeping me from driving freedom is the lock nut on the tie-rod end, the tie rod end bolt that connects it to the spindle is stripped and i can't get that nut off, so i figured i want to put a newe tie rod end on but the tightener bolt that you have to break free to take it off won't budge. I slipped a 22 mm on it and it is starting to strip it's so tight. do you think heating it up with a torch would break it free?
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it couldn't hurt it! I had to cut the bearings off my Dak spindle when they welded to it from friction. Actually my dad did that and then we put a new bearing on the same spindle Damn he's good! LOL Good luck man
hoses, wires, bearings
You really have to have a manual to find those hoses and wires. You need the right size socket on a 1/2" drive bar. Have someone stand on the brake pedal (or jam down with a 2 x 4) to stop the hub from rotating when you loose or tighten that nut. Torque it!
You really have to have a manual to find those hoses and wires. You need the right size socket on a 1/2" drive bar. Have someone stand on the brake pedal (or jam down with a 2 x 4) to stop the hub from rotating when you loose or tighten that nut. Torque it!
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