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Help. I'm trying to replace the hub & bearing assembly (cause you can't just replace the bearings in the front wheel) and I've beat the hell out of the old one trying to get it off. Is there a special trick? :VHOT:
 

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air chisel works great, but you gotta be carefull not to damage anything. You might wanna try a jaw puller tool that you can "borrow" from Autozone.
 

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Kasey Kahne #9
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MSHarnett said:
air chisel works great, but you gotta be carefull not to damage anything. You might wanna try a jaw puller tool that you can "borrow" from Autozone.
go for the second option... borrow a hub remover.. also.. i believe theres a tool to place them back in too.

old blazer i had, had to replace both hubs in the front. the mechanic, who's my wifes friend from highschool, hubs can be pain in the arsh if you dont have proper tool.
 

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HUB / BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove the hub extension mounting nuts and
remove the extension from the rotor if equipped (Fig.
1).
(4) Remove the brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the cotter pin and the hub nut from
the axle shaft (Fig. 2).
(6) Disconnect the ABS wheel speed sensor wire
from under the hood. Remove the sensor wire from
the frame and steering knuckle if equipped.
(7) Back off the hub/bearing mounting bolts 1/4
inch each (Fig. 3). Then tap the bolts with a hammer
to loosen the hub/bearing from the steering knuckle.
(8) Remove the hub/bearing mounting bolts and
remove the hub/bearing.
(9) Remove the rotor assembly (Fig. 4), brake
shield and spacer from the steering knuckle.
(10) Press out the wheel studs/hub extension studs
and separate the rotor from the hub (Fig. 5).
(11) Remove the wheel speed sensor (Fig. 6) from
the hub bearing if equipped.

INSTALLATION
(1) Install the wheel speed sensor in the hub bearing
if equipped.
(2) Position the rotor on the hub/bearing.
(3) Press the wheel studs/hub extension studs
through the back side of the rotor and through the
hub bearing flange (Fig. 7).
(4) Apply a liberal quantity of anti-seize compound
to the splines of the front drive shaft.
(5) Insert the two rearmost, top and bottom rotor
hub bolts in the steering knuckle. Insert the bolts
through the back side of the knuckle so they extend
out the front face as shown.
Fig. 4 Rotor Hub/Bearing Assembly
1 - ROTOR AND HUB
2 - UNIT BEARING ASSEMBLY
3 - SEAL
Fig. 5 ROTOR AND HUB/BEARING
1 - HUB BEARING
2 - ROTOR
Fig. 6 Wheel Speed Sensor
1 - HUB BEARING
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
Fig. 7 Rotor, Hub/Bearing And Stud
1 - HUB BEARING
2 - ROTOR
3 - STUD
2 - 32 FRONT - LINK/COIL DR

(6) Position the hub spacer (Fig. 8) and brake
shield (Fig. 9) on bolts just installed in knuckle.
NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with a wheel speed
sensor the brake shield must be positioned on the
hub bearing (Fig. 10).
(7) Align the rotor hub with the drive shaft and
start the shaft into the rotor hub splines.
NOTE: Position wheel speed sensor wire at the top
of the knuckle if equipped.
(8) Align the bolt holes in the hub bearing flange
with the bolts installed in the knuckle. Then thread
the bolts into the bearing flange far enough to hold
the assembly in place.
(9) Install the remaining bolts. Tighten the hub/
bearing bolts to 202 N·m (149 ft. lbs.
(10) Install the washer and axle nut and tighten a
beginning torque of 179 N·m (132 ft. lbs.).
(11) Rotate the axle 5 to 10 times to seat the hub
bearing.
(12) Tighten to a final torque of 356 N·m (263 ft.
lbs.).
(13) Align the axle nut to the next forward cotter
pin hole and install a new cotter pin in the axle nut.
(14) Install the brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install the sensor wire to the steering knuckle
and frame and if equipped. Connect the wheel speed
sensor wire under the hood.
(16) Install the wheel and tire assemblies, (Refer
to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(17) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
(18) Apply the brakes several times to seat the
brake shoes and caliper piston. Do not move the vehicle
until a firm brake pedal is obtained.
Fig. 8 Hub Spacer
1 - ROTOR HUB BOLTS
2 - HUB SPACER (POSITION FLAT TO REAR)
3 - APPLY ANTI-SEIZE COMPOUND TO SPLINES
Fig. 9 Brake Shield
1 - BRAKE SHIELD
2 - HUB BEARING BOLTS
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
Fig. 10 Brake Shield With Wheel Speed Sensor
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
2 - HUB BEARING
3 - SHIELD
DR FRONT - LINK/COIL 2 - 33
HUB / BEARING (Continued)
 

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If you have an e-mail address with a high speed connection I can send you the complete service manual for our trucks. Its 91 megabytes, so even with a fast connection it will take a few minutes. Just send me a PM if you want it or someone else will chime in with the right link to download it from the original site.
 

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A couple of extra tips.............

Remove the center cap and loosen the axle hub nut while the weight of the vehicle is still on the tire.

Spray PB Blaster (or other favorite penetrant) onto the hub area. Loosen the lug nuts some, start the truck, and use a lock-to-lock steering motion several times. Usually this will aid in breaking the hub assembly apart.

Greg
 

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Trashe Rotor

What I thought was going to be an esay job has turned into a pain in the back side. Guess that's what I get for ignoring the brake noise and trashing the rotor. Unfortunately the design wizard put the rotor on the back side of the bearing hub assembly instead of the on the front, requiring the bearing assembly to be removed. Unfortunately the hub assembly doesn't want to come out of the spindle. I managed to make a puller to pull against the hub but unfortunately the bearing assemble pulled apart instead of the entire assembly coming out of the spindle. If it wasn't for the bearing seal being pulled out and no way to press it back in once reassembled I guess this would work. Or at least it did in my case. I manage to change the rotor and put the assembly back together but I know the seal/grease won't last long. Should last long enough until a new bearing assembly arrives in four-five day.


I didn't try any of the tips listed above so I try that next time. Should have looked at this site prior to tearing it apart. Is there any reason why I should have to pull the nuckle to press out the outer hub assembly? I'm hoping to avoid that. Does anyone know of a manual available online for the 99 3500, Cummins?
 

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Loosen the 4 bolts on the back of the steering knuckle about 1/2" then use a socket and extension on the bolts (one at a time) and wedge it between the axle housing. Start up the truck and use the power steering to "press" the hub/bearing assemble out a little bit at a time with each bolt. You will have to use different length extensions for a couple of the bolts. Press each one out a little until the whole assemble pops out. Takes less then 5 minutes.
 

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All Around Great Guy
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I wish i had saw this thread earlier... Jeff k has it right on the button. You can use a old socket, just make sure it is one you don't like... We have a tool in the shop, it was a special tool but don't know what it was, but you basically put it between the universal joint and the axle, then have somebody turn the vehicles wheel, it takes alot of pressure! You think you are going to break the steering wheel off! Turn the wheel to the other side and repeat and keep repeating till it starts to break free. 9 times out of 10 it works. I actually had a 2500 with 85k on it have the ball joints give out and i had to remove the bearing/hubs. Needless to say they popped out, but something else gave way too, the center link bent like a pretzel. I have NEVER seen that before in my life neither has the gentlemen that works next to me with over 30 years of automotive service. It was a oddity to say the least but the above works every time.
 

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Jeff your tip worked great!!! I had to use slightly different tools but the basic idea works. I didn't have any extentions that gave me the right length combinaton so what I used was a 3/8 x 4 1/2" bolt along with the 14mm shallow socket. I ground the bolt thread square to fit in the socket. This length worked great to go from the bolt to the axle housing. With someone turning the steering wheel you can push the assemble out in a matter of minutes. Use a grade 8 bolt otherwise the cheaper grades bend...been there done that. Going with a half inch drive socket and bigger bolt should work also...I just happen to have the 3/8 in my bolt bin.
Hope this helps someone else out there in the same situtation.
Thanks for sharing the tip Jeff....otherwise I'd probably still be hammer away.
 

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Jeff K said:
Loosen the 4 bolts on the back of the steering knuckle about 1/2" then use a socket and extension on the bolts (one at a time) and wedge it between the axle housing. Start up the truck and use the power steering to "press" the hub/bearing assemble out a little bit at a time with each bolt. You will have to use different length extensions for a couple of the bolts. Press each one out a little until the whole assemble pops out. Takes less then 5 minutes.
Being a dealer, we have all the special tools but still do it this way as it's faster and easier.
 

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I need help

Hi,
I have a 1994 Dodge Dually 3500 and you said you could email me a service manual. I need help as I have removed all the nescessary parts and the hub bearing is stuck to the threaded axle end. I mean I have pounded on the back of the rotor, pried at the pressed facing that seals the bearings in. I have tried everything except a jaw puller, and don't know what to do. It's supposed to snow tomorrow, and I'm really in a bind. I don't know what kind of axle I have Dana 44 or 60, but would guess the 60.
My email is dagginwagon at yahoo if there is anything you could send me regarding this truck. It has a 5.9 liter Cummins. Chilton guide gave me NOTHING on this topic. Thanks for anything you can provide.
Dave
 

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I only had the 04 manual- never did get it to send over email. I just looked at the other website and they only go back to 03, so not much help here I'm afraid. My advice is, if you can post a picture of what you've got up here on the boards and I'd be willing to bet someone can help you out quickly.
 
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