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HOW TO: Replace the front brakes on a Gen 1 Durango

These install instructions should work for all Gen 1 Durangos (1998 - 2003)

I have been pretty unhappy with the stopping power of my stock Durango brakes. My Durango is about 3 years old and has 30000 miles on it. I decided to upgrade to the Powerstop cross drilled front rotors and the Hawk pads.

Here is the invoice from www.jegs.com:
Power Stop Rotors Left Front 915-AR-8738L $94.99
Power Stop Rotors Right Front 915-AR-8738R $101.99
Hawk High Performance Brake Pads 486-HB307F.795 $59.99
Motive Products Power Bleeders -715-00252 $69.99
(4) Dot-3 Brake Fluid $10.76
Subtotal $337.72
Handling $9.99
Ground Delivery Charge $0.00 (free shipping)
TOTAL $347.71

It is pretty easy to do the swap. The brake pad and rotor replacement took about 2 1/2 hours. I did the drivers side in about 90 minutes and the passenger side in about 45 minutes (no more pictures to take and easier to do it the 2nd time). The bleeding and cleanup took about 90 minutes due to several brake fluid spill cleanups.

The existing fluid was pretty dark - it looked like coffee. I started by removing as much of the old fluid in the reservoir with a turkey baster (I need to buy my wife a new one).

I bled the brake system with my new Motive Products Power Bleeder. I had some difficulty getting the proper seal on the reservoir. I leaked brake fluid all over. Pain to clean it all up. Once I got the seal properly seated on the reservoir, the unit worked nicely.

I was able to get all the fluid in the reservoir and the brake lines flushed through until it was coming out the bleed screws pretty close to the color of the new fluid. It took about 3 pints of fluid to flush the system counting the fluid that spilled all over. Interestingly, I had absolutely no air in the lines.

I then burnished the brake pads following the instructions from Hawk Performance. During the last braking cycle I could smell the brake pads smoking a bit. I believe this is probably normal. I will report back on the performance of the new brakes after the break-in period is complete (200-500 miles)
 

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1) Drain as much brake fluid from resevoir as possible using turkey baster (picture #01).

2) Chock rear tires (picture #02).

3) Jack up front end, position jackstands, and remove lug nuts (picture #03).

4) Remove wheel (picture #04) and you will see the crummy stock brake rotor and caliper with crummy stock pads (picture #05).
 

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5) Use a 6" C-clamp to fully depresses brake caliper piston. This allows you to get the thicker pads to fit over the new rotor. Center the C-clamp body on back of caliper and center the screw on outboard brake pad (picture #06).

6) Remove the brake spring clip using a screwdriver and some fiddling to get it out (picture #07).

7) Remove both caliper slide pins using 7mm allen wrench (picture #08). Note: allen wrench is sticking out of one of the slide pins (picture #09). Picture of caliper slide pin. Take great care not to damage these pins.

8) Remove C clamp. slide caliper up and off rotor and set it on bucket (picture #10) or hang by wire. Careful to not bend brake hose too much.

9) Remove the pads from the caliper. The outside pad is held on by 2 spring fingers. It is easy to slide it off the caliper. The inside pad just pulls out of the bore of the caliper.
 

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10) Here is the caliper with the brake pads removed (picture #11).

11) Remove 2 lock washer that hold the rotor on (picture #12).

12) Use a screwdriver and needle nose pliers to pry up locking tabs on lock washers and remove lockwashers (picture #13).

13) Hammer locking tabs on lockwashers back to original position after lockwasher removed.

14) Tap rotor with hammer to loosen it up (picture #14).

15) Remove crummy old rotor (picture #15).
 

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16) Put thin film of anti squeal lube (I used the orange stuff) on back side of both pads.

17) Install new pads in caliper.

18) Install new rotor with (2) lock washers.

19) Install caliper on rotor with slide pins being careful not to cross thread.

20) Re-install caliper spring clip (from picture #7).

21) Torque slide pins to 22 ft lbs.

TA DA you are finished!! (Picture 16) well almost...

22) Install wheel.

23) Do other side.

24) Optional but strongly advisable Bleed brakes, better yet flush entire brake system with new fluid.

25) perform burnishing procedure described below.

Hawk Performance brake pad burnishing instructions:
1) After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
2) Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
3) DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
4) Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
5) After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just back from a test drive and the new brakes do feel stronger than the stockers.

I really need to get another 200 miles minimum though before I can really put them to the test.
 
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