DodgeTalk Forum banner

1 - 1 of 1 Posts

·
Mikey
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Alright Ladies and Gentlemen, This is my how to on replacing your front hub/bearing for a 2004 Dakota 4X4. But is applicable for 2000 to 2004.

First off, Start by determining which side you need to replace. If you are driving down the road listening to deep hum, start turning left to right, shifting the weight of your vehicle from side to side. If your hum goes away when you turn left, It meens that your left bearing has gone bad since all of the weight is now on the right, and vice versa.

When buying your bearing make sure to find out if you have two wheel abs, or four wheel abs, otherwise you may end up with the wrong hub/bearing.

When you've determined which bearing you're going to replace, start assembling your parts and tools for the job.

Tools: 32mm Deep Socket, 21mm, 19mm deep socket, 14mm, 9/16, 10mm wrench, torque wrench range of 100 - 200 ft/lbs, breaker bar, impact wrench ( highly recomended ), hammer, wire brush.

Parts: 1 replacement hub/bearing, 1 replacement axle nut, 1 1-1/2 codder pin.

1: Remove your codder pin and remove the nut lock and it's spring washer.

2: If you do not have an impact gun, recommend breaking the axle nut and washer now and removing it. (32mm)

3:Lift your vehicle and remove the tire. (19mm)

4: Now, remove your brake caliper, there are two bolts in the back. (14mm) Do your best to zip tie it out of the way, do not let it hang by the hose, and remove your pads right after.

5: Remove the caliper mount which is held on by two bolts in the back (21mm), and now you should be able to pull off your rotor. If you cannot, check your studs and ensure their is no locking device installed which is designed to hold it on out of factory.

6: Remove the splash shield (10mm). The job can be done without removing this, but will be more difficult.

7: On the backside of your steering knuckle, there are three bolts (9/16), remove these. Now you can remove your old hub. I used a hammer and it came out with out to much trouble.

8: With a wire brush clean up all the rust you can in the seat where the bareing seats, and you can use brake cleaner to help clean out rust dust.

9: apply a thin layer of grease to the seat, and to the axle, and slide the hub, over the axle and seat it. Install the three bolts in the back (9/16) being sure to alternate pulling the hub straight in. When it is fully seated, Torque each one of these to 123 ft/lbs.

10: Slide your rotor back on, and now reinstall your caliper mounting bracket, torque the two bolts to 148 ft/lbs. (21mm)

11: Install your pads, slide your caliper back in place, and install the caliper bolts and torque to 22 ft/lbs. (14mm)

12: Now put your tire back on. 85 - 115 ft/lbs. (19mm)

13: Put on your new axle nut with washer and make it snug. Lower the vehicle down till the tire makes a solid contact, and torque it down to 180 ft/lbs. (32mm)

14: Install the lock and codder pin, drop it completely, and take it for a test drive.

Hope this helps, would have used more photos, but i reached my limit for this post.
 

Attachments

1 - 1 of 1 Posts
Top