DodgeTalk Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Don't fear the sheepdog
Joined
·
6,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
How to install OEM fog lights

Ok, I've written a few how to's for the 3rd Gen Ram forums, so now it's time to help you folks out too.
Here's a how to for anyone thinking about installing factory fog lights to your ST Dakota.

These kits come with instructions, but they are photos only. So I'll try to clear things up a bit for you.
1st. Disconnect the battery. You're going to be messing around in the fuse box, and don't want to fry anything in there (or get a shock).
The instructions tell you to take the top off the fuse box (that's not needed now, but doesn't hurt, and will need to be done later anyway). Unscrew the top and open it up.
Now you have to take the fuse box out of it's nest so you can run the wires to it for the lights. There are two screws holding the fuse box down (circle in red in the 2nd pic). Unscrew them and pull the box up. There are a lot of wires coming in from the bottom, so it can't lift very high, but there's enough room to work in.
There is an "L" shaped connector in the bottom of the fuse box that has to be disconnected. This is the connector that your lights will wire into. The instructions are pretty clear on which one it is, but they say nothing about how to remove it. In the 3rd pic, I have circled the keys to this removal. The part I am holding is the connector that needs removed. The red circle nearest my thumb is a button. Push this button in, and the grey lever hinges down. The other outlined red area is this lever, in the unlocked position. The blue circle is the same style lever in the locked position on another connector. With this unlocked, you can simply pull straight down on the connector to disconnect it from the fuse box.
Now you have to take the connector apart so you can wire you lights. There are 4 snaps on the sides, that a small screw driver can easily pop open. Then it just comes apart. I didn't take a pic of these since they are very obvious once you're doing it.
Now you have to run the harness behind the battery, and then up from under the fuse box. The instructions show where to run the wires for a factory looking install.
Now plug the two wires from the fog light harness, into the connector. There are VERY SMALL numbers molded into the plastic. The wires need to be plugged into two specific holes, so look real close to be sure you have the right holes. Once these wires "snap" into position, they are pretty much there forever. The wires can be in either hole, but they must be in the right two holes For example.... if the instructions say holes 34, and 35 (I don't remember the numbers) wire "A" can be in either 34, or 35, you just have to be sure to use 34, and 35.
Reassemble the connector, and plug it back into the bottom of the fuse box. Now put the box back into it's nest, and screw it down.
If your fuse box doesn't already have them, install the fuse, and relay into the fuse box (circled in blue in pic 2). The instructions tell you which locations they plug into. The lid of your fuse box shows where these locations are in the box. The Dak I just did already had them so I didn't need to put the new ones in. Now you can put the lid back on the box, and move on to the bumper cover.

You're going to need to cut the old louvered inserts out, so you can put the new through inserts in (so your lights look like pic 1 when done).
1st is removing your bumper cover. Use a T30 torx bit, to unscrew it. There are 3 screws in the top, and 3 on each end. The instructions showed 2 screws under it too, but this Dak didn't have these 2 screws. I have the screw locations circled in red in pics 4, and 5. I had to turn the wheels to be able to get my torx driver in the end screws.
Once the cover is off, you're ready to cut. The instructions show a picture of what I assume is a utility knife to do this. I used a dremel tool with an endmill. I used the knife to shave off the burrs. I also kept a small shop vac on hand to sweep out the dust so I could see where I was cutting. My complete cutting supply pile is in pic 6 (I'm only allowed 5 pics per post, so pics 6-9 will be on my next post). This hole doesn't have to look good, because your installing a sleeve over it (pic 7).
Put the sleeves in the holes, and add the pins to hold them in place. The instructions show specific areas for the pins, but they will hold as long as you're sure to put them into an area that you didn't trim away in the previous step.
Now mount up your lights. The instructions are just fine for this, you don't need me here.
Reinstall your bumper cover.

Now it's time to hook up your new switch.
The hard part here is taking the side panel off the dash. This panel, is circled in red in pic 9 (this pic actually has the new switch already installed). I used a large flat tip screw driver to pry the panel off. It's on there VERY tight. There may be better tools for removal, but if you're patient, a screw driver works fine. Once the side panel is off, you'll need to remove 2 screws, so you can pull the dash away from it's normal position. I have the two screw holes circled in red in pic 8. I also have two lines showing where these holes line up with the metal plate behind the dash.
There are 3 screws holding the old switch in. You should be able to figure out where theres screw locations are by looking at your new switch. Unscrew the 3 screws, and unplug the only connection in the switch. Plug the new switch in and screw it into place.
Now reassemble your dash.
Hook the battery up, and take a drive to your local Dodge dealer. The computer controls the fog lights so the dealer must "activate" them before they work. My local dealer charges $30 to activate them, so other dealers shouldn't be far off from that.
Once the lights are activated, you'll need to aim them. A T20 torx will do this by turning the screw that is located just above fog light itself. It is accessed through the slot in the insert that you just put in the bumper cover.

That's it. You now have OEM fog lights. enjoy.
 

Attachments

·
Don't fear the sheepdog
Joined
·
6,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Here are pics 6-9
 

Attachments

·
Don't fear the sheepdog
Joined
·
6,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hey D Long, I forgot two things.
1st, Welcome to Dodgtalk.
2nd, You won't need to remove your bumper (no cover on your style) to install the lights. I just did them while still attached to the truck.
 

·
Don't fear the sheepdog
Joined
·
6,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I'm not sure what you mean by pilot. Are you talking about Pilot brand lights, instead of using OEM? Regardless if you use OEM, or aftermarket, you won't need to buy a relay for 2nd gen dakota. Most (if not all) aftermarket fog light kits will come with an inline fuse, so you don't need to get into the fuse box. The '06 I did in this how-to is the 1st one that I had to access the fuse box in order to do a complete install.
I hope that cleared it up. If not, post a pic, describe the part, or something like that, and I'll try to answer better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Well the instructions that the fog lights came with say that they want me to take a wire from the switch and put it to the parking lights, should i do that through the fuse box, and if so how?
 

·
Don't fear the sheepdog
Joined
·
6,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The easiest way is to just pull the corner marker assembly out like you are going to change a bulb. It is held in by one torx screw (T10, but your torx driver needs to be about 4" long) and a few clips. Then just splice into the parking light feed (just be sure you don't use the turn signal feed). I've got a factory corner marker assy that I replaced with clear ones, so I can post some pics of clips if you want to see what they look like.
 

·
Don't fear the sheepdog
Joined
·
6,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Alright, here's the pics I promised. For anyone interested.......
The following pics are, a corner marker light from a 2nd Gen Dakota. You don't need this for the 3rd Gen install (your fog lights are wired through the fuse box). Now for any of you 2nd Gen installers, specifically D Long, I think this should clear it up for you. The pics are of the passenger side light, but it doesn't really matter which side you use. This is just the light that was sitting on top, in the box.

The Red circle (in both pics) shows where the T10 torx screw is located. This is in the corner of the marker light, and the head light. The screw sits back pretty far, so you'll need a long driver to get to it. I bought mine at Advanced Auto Parts, for about $3. Unscrew this screw, it's the only one holding the unit on.

The Green circles show two locations where there is a rubber strip that attaches to the marker. This rubber strip is at the edge of where your grille meets the lights. The strip is also attached to your headlight with the same style tabs. These tabs are basically a "T" shape. You just need to slide the rubber strip over the two tabs (you don't need to remove it from the headlight).

Now that the screw is out, and the rubber strip isn't attached, you can take the corner marker out. Hold it by the end that you just took the rubber strip off of, and by the back edge (by the clear portion of the marker), and pull straight toward the front of the truck. These clips are pretty tight, so don't be shy.

Once you have the marker out you can access the wires for the parking lights. There are 2 bulbs in this unit. Just turn you parking lights on, to determine which bulb is the parking light. Mark the wire with a piece of tape or a marker if you need to. Turn on you turn signal to be sure that the bulb you have marked isn't blinking. If it stays solid you have the right one. NOW TURN THE LIGHTS OFF. It's best to disconnect the battery when messing with the electric, but at the very least don't forget to turn the lights off.
Once marked you just splice into the wire you have marked, then put your corner marker back in. Don't forget to reattach the rubber strip (it's pretty easy to forget).
 

Attachments

·
Don't fear the sheepdog
Joined
·
6,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Intead of spicing at the end of the wires (taking the bulb pieces apart), I did an inline splice about 3" back from the bulb. Tape it up real good, and put the wire loom back over it, and you'll be fine.

If that's not what you were talking about post a pic, and I'll try again. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
thats what i was talkin about, and that worked but i cant seem to get the fog lights to come on, the switch works, i have them plugged in, i think it may be the ground wire im using, what do you think?
 

·
Don't fear the sheepdog
Joined
·
6,404 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Make sure you have the lights on, that you spliced into. I know it sounds obvious, but you never know. Assuming you did that, I'd say you're probably right, it's most likely your ground.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top