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Acts 2:38-39
2,352 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This how-to is an ATI damper install on a 2007 Dodge RAM 1500 with 4.7L engine, but other engines should be similar.

What you need to proceed:
ATI damper, truck manual (specifically concerning the crankshaft damper), lock-tite, combination wrenches and socket set (at least 10mm, 15mm, 3/8”, and 15/16”), 10" adjustable wrench, torque wrenches with 15-130 ft-lbs range, T-40 torx bit, strap wrench, damper tools (buy or rent from AIRRAM), shorter Serpentine drive belt (855K6 works fine), anti-seize lube.

I suggest you read through once before taking the plunge, just to be sure you have everything you need.

Use a 10mm wrench or socket to disconnect the negative battery post.

Make sure the pulley timing mark is lined up with the mark on the block. Why? Because you want to line up the new pulley when you install it...

You need to hold the pulley stationary while loosening the crankshaft bolt. I used a stout screwdriver…because I forgot I had a strap wrench, until after I had the bolt loose.

13/16" deep socket, or normal socket with 3" extension. Breaker bar works well.

Be sure to pull the belt off of the tensioner pulley before you try removing the crank pulley. 15mm wrench is what I used.

The puller tool requires a 15/16" socket. I suggest you use a big washer (not included) in front of it to protect the threads as you start pulling the OEM pulley off. The bolt in the kit does not have enough length to pull the pulley all the way off. I used a 1 or 1.5" piece of scrap oak board to give me enough reach. It is a bit of a trick to loosen the pulley tool, place the oak scrap in, and catch it with the bolt against the pulley.

FYI. I was a bit concerned when I read the instructions that came with the ATI, as it was talking about crankshaft snout diameter. So I called ATI to ask them. The rep told me that information was aimed for aftermarket crankshafts. OEM cranks should be fine. I found that to be the case with the 4.7… so onward.

The ATI hub will slip on the crank snout without any issue. Be sure to lube it with anti-sieze first, and make sure you line up the slot with the woodruff key. BEFORE you put the install tool on!!

Lube the installer threads--especially the large part. It's taking the brunt of the force. I didn't have a large enough combo wrench or socket--1 1/4". I had to use a 10" adjustable (crescent) wrench. Get the bolt started by hand, and start running it in until the hub seats. It will stop a short distance before reaching the case.

Put some blue Locktite on the countersunk screws. These hold the damper to the hub. I sheared my (el-cheapo) 1/4" drive extension with one of these. They are only 16 ft-lbs (per ATI instructions), so I was a little surprised. These take the T-40 torx bit.

Now slide the ribbed pulley on. Line up the keyway with the TDC mark. Put blue Locktite on the 3/8" 12 point bolts. Torque to 30 ft-lbs (per ATI instructions). Got to have 12pt sockets for this.

Now, reinstall the crankshaft bolt. Get your strap wrench on the the pulley to hold it still. I put a small dent in the ribbed pulley when doing this because the metal part was bearing down on the edge, so I suggest putting a shim of some sort between to keep you from making the same error. The manual has the torque value, but I think it's 130 ft-lbs.

Next, install the new (shorter) serpentine belt. Be sure to route it the same way as the original, as you can get it wrong...

Installation complete. Enjoy!

Yes, I do keep an eye on the temp gauge, but my Taurus e-Fan keeps temps in check.


Acts 2:38-39
2,352 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
It's been two years or so since I installed the ATI (25%) under drive. It works great itself. But, since I also have a Taurus E-fan on my truck and did a clutch fan delete, the resulting lower alternator output at idle needed some attention, especially after sitting in San Antonio or I-35 traffic with the air conditioning on and the radiator fan running.
So, I researched some pulleys. The former MSD 51901 (1.65”) alternator pulley is no longer available, nor is the 5190 (2”). Or at least I couldn’t find them.

However, there are alternatives available to increase alternator rpms.
- March 112 (at Summit) . It’s only a shaft diameter of .642”, but that could be opened up with a 17mm drill bit. The pulley diameter is 1.687”, or 1 - 11/16”. Aluminum.
- March 110-08 (at Summit) . It’s only a shaft diameter of .650”, but that could be opened up with a 17mm drill bit. The pulley diameter is 1.676”, or 1 - 43/64”. Steel.
- Romeo 7380 (Ebay). Shaft diameter of 17mm, pulley diameter is 1.9” or 47mm. Steel.

- Delco CS130D AD244 AD230 (Ebay). Pulley diameter is 2.03”, shaft is 17mm. Steel. **Just installed this pulley 24 Feb 16. I did have to grind about 1/16” off the back side of the pulley to line up the belt, and it really needs about 3/16” machined off the inside surface where the nut is installed. But, I used locktite on the threads in lieu of the lock washer, so I’m expecting that to hold until I can get time for a machine shop. This pulley is heavier than I would like, but it'll due for now.

To remove the alternator pulley, I used a strap wrench and a 15/16” socket.

I have not measured the OEM alternator shaft diameter, but did run a ruler across the face of it and the nut and it’s about 1/16” shy of 3/4". Which means it’s likely 0.669”, or 17 mm.
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