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My problems was stalling when warming up. It would start fine. Run fine but when I was coming up to a stop sign it would just die. It would start up again but die again. This fixed it up just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Psyclone said:
My problems was stalling when warming up. It would start fine. Run fine but when I was coming up to a stop sign it would just die. It would start up again but die again. This fixed it up just fine.
I'm glad that the this fix was easy to do and didn't require the dealer to do it.

If you liked this step-by-step how to, please read some of the other helpful stickies on this forum too. ;)
 

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Dennis D said:
Stev, Do all TBI's have a IAC valve??? I have a 1990 Power Ram, 318, (5.2?) with a Holley TBI.
You have a different set up. You have and Idle Speed Control Actuator instead of the IAC.
 

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Tried the IAC clean, and it didn't get rid of the p0505 code. Then did a complete tune-up (spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap), still got the code. Then, I finally bit the bullet and installed a new IAC. Still getting the code. The only thing that has changed is that the light only comes on sometimes now. I can't figure out what is causing it, because it happens when it is code or warm. When it does come on, I notice a marked sluggishness in the engine and rough idling. Does anyone have suggestions?

Take Care, Sharon
 

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Discussion Starter #25
lanesharon said:
Tried the IAC clean, and it didn't get rid of the p0505 code. Then did a complete tune-up (spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap), still got the code. Then, I finally bit the bullet and installed a new IAC. Still getting the code. The only thing that has changed is that the light only comes on sometimes now. I can't figure out what is causing it, because it happens when it is code or warm. When it does come on, I notice a marked sluggishness in the engine and rough idling. Does anyone have suggestions?

Take Care, Sharon
Sharon,

Did you also clean that little slot opening at the base inside the TB IAC location. It's just under the IAC port hole. Be very careful with any cotton swab cleaning in that slot. You don't need the swap head to break off! Clean with a light touch and use many swabs soaked in the carb/injector cleaner solution until it's really clean.

Peace!

Stev
 

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Could a dirty IAC be the reason that I have to warm my 3.9L up before I go anywhere? Even in the summer, when the engine is cold, I have to sit for a few minutes at idle, otherwise it will spit, sputter and run like heck until it warms up. Also, this engine has 110K on it, and I'm getting a strong gas smell out of the exhaust even after replacing both O2 sensors.
 

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If the IAC was the problem, your symptoms would exist even when the engine was warmed up.

I'd be more inclined to think your coolant temperature sensor is bad. There's two, one for the PCM (2-wire) to regulate the air/fuel mixture based on engine temperature, and the second is for the gauge/dash light (single wire). If the one for the PCM is no good, the PCM will think that the engine is fully warmed up and fail to richen the fuel mixture to what a cold engine needs.
 
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