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How-To pertains to all 2G Durango's with the 5.7L HEMI. Test vehicle is an 05 Durango 2WD 5.7L

All credit is due to HEMI5PNTSVN for coming up with this idea. I just took it and made my version and the How-To.

Parts:
3in to 3in Rubber Coupling - Look in the plumbing section
3in ID PVC conduit - 90deg bend 18in radius. (Yours may vary, as long as it fits in the engine compartment.)
Conical air filter with a neck that fits over the conduit. (I used K&N RU-3130)
Universal crankcase breather

Paint: (if you so choose)
Sand paper - 600 grit basic working your way to 1000 grit if you want a really smooth finish.
Any spray paint will do, get the color you want (If you have a black D, HEMI Orange looks great)
Primer - If you really want a smooth glossy finish

Tools:
8mm, 10mm, 13mm sockets w/ ratchet
Flathead screwdriver
Hacksaw (Bandsaw if you have one)
Drill and 1/2in drill bit
Dremel - Not necessary but always good to have on hand

Disassembly

1. Begin by removing the crankcase breather tube from the airbox and the oil filler neck. Leave the rubber piece on the neck but take everything from there to the air box out. You will be left with a grey plastic tube and a 90deg rubber hose. Take the rubber hose off as you will use it later in Step 19.



2. Take off the oil filler cap. (This makes the HEMI HAT remove much easier)

3. At this time unclip the upper part of the airbox and remove the filter.

4. Loosen the hose clamps near the airbox and the HEMI Hat using the 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver. Remove each piece (upper airbox, resonator, tubing)



5. Remove the lower portion of the airbox with the 13mm socket.



HEMI HAT REMOVAL

6. There is a clip that holds some wire that needs to be unclipped from the hat.



7. Disconnect the map sensor harness. Just press where there looks to be a clip and pull. It may take some effort as it has probably never been removed since coming from the factory. As always if it seems like too much effort is needed figure out what is wrong (ASK QUESTIONS).



8. Loosen the two 10mm bolts that hold the hat on and pull it off. It will take some wiggling but if you pull out and up it will come. Be patient and watch out for any wires or hoses that may be caught. Before you pull it out check to make sure everything is disconnected.



Here is what you should see now.



9. Pull the map sensor from the HAT. I found that I had to lift the metal tab to loosen turning counter clockwise.



Assembly

10. Take the 3in coupling and verify that it will go on the throttle body. If not figure out why. More than likely it will but there may be a special case. Once on tighten the hose clamp so that it you can wiggle the coupling around without it coming off. You will be taking it off again so it doesn't have to be airtight, just tight enough.



11. Stick the conduit into the coupling. (For those of you whose conduit has a larger end on one side insert the smaller end) How far you go is up to you and where you want your air filter to sit. Play with it for a bit and get the best fit. Draw a line on the conduit at the coupling so that you know where it goes and maybe a centerline so that you can re-orient it for final test fit.


As you can see I still had my lower airbox in thinking I might be able to use it but without some serious mods it wouldn't work.

12. Now figure out where you want your filter to end up. This will be different for each filter so remember measure twice cut once.



13. Cut the conduit to length and place the filter on to see if the location is acceptable. (NOTE: That rubber piece to the right of the intake is the piece I talk about in Steps 1 and 19.)



14. Now mark the spot for the MAP sensor. I did mine back about 2-3in from the coupling on the left side. Placement is up to you as it's just a temp sensor and doesn't matter (within reason) where it's placed. The best way is to take the MAP Harness and figure out the best location for the least amount of strain on the wire.

15. Drill the hole. I started with some small bits to start the hole and worked my way to 1/2in. That is just a bit to small so I moved the drill around and was able to eventually get it to fit. This is where a Dremel would come in handy. You can do it with the drill just be patient and keep checking to see if the sensor will fit. Adding a little bit, and I mean just enough to make it shine and not be runny, of oil to the o-ring. This will help it slide into the hole. Check and make sure that it will be airtight and quite snug. If not you can always use some silicone sealant once you are complete.



16. Take it all apart and go wash the conduit with water and run a towel through it. This will remove the plastic pieces that were created during cutting and drilling. Make sure that you get all the plastic from the edges cleaned off.

17. Put it all together making sure that all the clamps are tight and crank it up to make sure that there are no air leaks.



If you are going to paint it take it apart and paint it. Then follow the rest of the directions. I know how to paint (albeit I am still a novice) and can tell you it's all about how you prep the surface. I would wash it with dish soap to get the oil off first. There are many tutorials on the internet so I won't go into it here.

Also while your paint is drying, take off the throttle body and clean it. There is an excellent How-To on this.

18. Place the crankcase breather in the hose that connects to the oil filler tube. it should just slide in with a bit of effort. If you want to clamp it with a hose clamp now is a good time. You don't have to if the fit is tight enough to your standards.

19. Take the 90deg rubber piece from step 1 and cut a slit along the seam line on the long side and up about 3/4in on the short side. Place this on the A/C return line with the short bend facing left. This is to keep the intake from rubbing and to relieve some strain on the 3in coupling.

I have yet to be satisfied with the way it's secured so I will be looking for a way and updating when found.

And this is what you end up with. Put some stickers on it if you wish.



As you can see I have moved the flap that was behind the grill next to the radiator. This allows for cooler air. There are some discussions on how to remove it here on DT so search around, you'll find them.



Completed walk-through:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shynyyLyAH0
 
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