DodgeTalk Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 61 Posts

·
They call me Radio
Joined
·
4,809 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've had some problems with my wheel bearings drying up lately and I really didn't want to spend the 500 or so on a set of Timken hubs. After talking with Aaron, I figured I would repack them like he did but I don't really have of the tools necessary to do it if anything is seized (I'm about 100% sure the hub has "welded" itself to the spindle because of the truck originally growing up in the East and all the water I play in).

Location of the zerk is up to you but I put it on the back side to keep it free of water and dust. This also meant I didn't have to cut apart the brake shield, relocate the ABS sensor AND its all shielded by the caliper.

Tools needed:
- 3/16th and 7/32's drill bit. (Be sure to magnetize these!!!!!)
- 1/4 28 tap (fine thread)
- Magnet
- A long and skinny piece of metal (I used a punch but a paperclip would work too) and magnetize this.
- 15/16th's socket for lug nuts
- 18mm socket to remove brake assembly
- 5/16th's socket to tighten the zerk.
- BFH
- Grease gun



1) Take off your tire

2) Take off the entire brake assembly of the spindle and hang it.

3) Remove the rotor. Had to use a BFH to do this as a crow and 24 oz. framer wasn't cutting it. Couple whacks and it was off.



4) Locate where you want to drill



5) Drill with the 3/16th's bit for approx. 1/2". Don't go all the way through yet. Take your 7/32's bit and drill in about 5/16" an inch. Clean out all of the metal shavings with punch and/or magnet. Go back to the 3/16th's and slowly go break through the bearing assembly. Clean the channel out of all metal shavings and be sure none drop inside of the bearing assembly.






6) Tap the hole with the 1/4 28 tap. The tap requires a 7/32's hole (the reasoning for the counter sink in the previous step).





7) Insert your zerk. I used a 1/4 long shaft zerk.



8) Grease the bitch up! I'm not even going to give a recommendation on how many pumps to do as it will all depend on how dry your bearings are. When looking through the hole, mine looked bone dry so I was pretty generous with the grease but made sure not to over pack so to break through the outer seals. You can pull out the ABS plug and that will give any "excess" grease an escape instead of busting through one of the out seals. After every few pumps, spin the hub a little to distribute the grease evenly to get the max amount in.


My hubs were starting to grind and after doing all of this, they aren't grinding anymore and they feel much better.
 

·
Average Guy
Joined
·
2,628 Posts
I was just thinking about this yesterday. It's always bothered me that the only lubrication point on the truck is the front drive shaft. I'm certain I'll be doing this in the future for piece of mind.

I saw a thing on Extreme 4x4 yesterday that showed a mod to replace the front spindles on our truck with new bearings and manual hubs so it would allow us to completely unlock the front hubs.
 

·
They call me Radio
Joined
·
4,809 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I was just thinking about this yesterday. It's always bothered me that the only lubrication point on the truck is the front drive shaft. I'm certain I'll be doing this in the future for piece of mind.

I saw a thing on Extreme 4x4 yesterday that showed a mod to replace the front spindles on our truck with new bearings and manual hubs so it would allow us to completely unlock the front hubs.
I've seen that as well but it's well over 1k. A little pricey for my taste. This cost me a little over a dollar and it's pretty easy to do.
 

·
Average Guy
Joined
·
2,628 Posts
I wonder if it wouldn't be a bad idea to put something like LockTite or even JBWeld on there to make sure those fittings never come loose or come out and to make sure they are sealed.
 

·
Mr. Registered User
Joined
·
384 Posts
This is a great idea.

How hard are they to get to?

So you have to take the wheel and rotors off to grease them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,006 Posts
angusdevil---YOU ROCK !!! :rck::rck::rck: This is a GREAT idea. :worthy::worthy::worthy::worthy::worthy:
 

·
ol faithful
Joined
·
826 Posts
cool good write up
 

·
PowerwagonMark
Joined
·
2,015 Posts
Great idea:worthy:
 

·
They call me Radio
Joined
·
4,809 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
This is a great idea.

How hard are they to get to?

So you have to take the wheel and rotors off to grease them?
You have to take off the wheel and rotor to get to them. The rotor doesn't leave much room for easy greasing. You won't be lubing all too often so its just a sacrifice to be had.


Someone earlier mentioned loctight or JBweld. I wouldn't use JBweld on the pure fact that when you screw it in, it'd be pretty easy to clog the hole. With loctight, thats a pretty good idea but again, just a drop so not to clog anything up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,232 Posts
I've seen that as well but it's well over 1k. A little pricey for my taste. This cost me a little over a dollar and it's pretty easy to do.
they sure as hell arent cheap, however, 2 unit bearings are in the neighborhood of 5-600 bucks and if you plan on keeping your truck, it would pay for itself the second time you had to replace the bearing, as it is then only like 40-50 bucks to replace after the free spin dynatrac or spyntec or ems, ect
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,974 Posts
I have question. How far it is safe to drill in without touching Ball bearing or Rolling bearing inside the steal ring whatever it design inside?
 

·
They call me Radio
Joined
·
4,809 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
the housing is about 1/2" thick. Just take it slow and your bit will let you know when you get close.
 

·
Blowin n' Goin
Joined
·
3,692 Posts
Awesome idea man, but how is it working? Do you know for sure thats its doing some good besides when you first checked them? Not trying to knock your idea, im just tired of buying hub bearings for everything I own.
 

·
They call me Radio
Joined
·
4,809 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Awesome idea man, but how is it working? Do you know for sure thats its doing some good besides when you first checked them? Not trying to knock your idea, im just tired of buying hub bearings for everything I own.
Seems to be working fine the first 24 hrs :D My hubs had been grinding and now they don't. They seem a bit more solid and free flowing too but time will tell. I don't see any grease dripping or being flung about so its all staying in there.

I see it like this, if my hubs were on there way out and if this were only to help for another 10 or 20k miles, that at least would give me some time to save up for some replacements. If it makes it last longer than that, well, I'm not going to complain!
 

·
Average Guy
Joined
·
2,628 Posts
I was the one thinking about the Locktite or JB. I guess, being very careful to only apply a small amount to the actual thread of the zerk so that it wouldn't clog. I would just be afraid of them working out since they aren't factory installed.
 
1 - 20 of 61 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top