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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is how to take control of that annoying chime you hear every time leave a key in. I put a switch in line so I can turn it back on since there are time when you want a chime for doing a program change or your going to let someone else drive your truck.

This procedure is for a 2008 Dodge Ram but I would think it would work for the 06 and 07 but with out seeing one of those I can't say for certain.


This procedure will require A above average knowledge level in soldering and requires specialized equipment to do it right. You will be desoldering the chime itself from the instrument cluster circuit board and then resolding back in by one terminal. If you screw up with the desoldering you could damage the circuit board or while soldering it in you could cause a solder bridge and short the board out, either way it could cost you money. My advice is you don't have the expertises is to find someone in the electronics repair field to do it.

What you will need:
  1. Good quality soldering iron with a fine point tip & rosin core solder
  2. Powered desoldering station or equivalent
  3. T-15 torques screw driver
  4. 9/32" nut driver or Phillips screw driver
  5. Small size electronics wire cutter
  6. A SPST toggle switch - what ever size you want, I went with a small one
  7. Length of a small gauge wire to run the switch where you want
  8. Small length of plastic tape
  9. small forceps

I did a google search for solder sucker and found web sites that had a range of cheap solder suckers ranging from the spring loaded kind to powered suckers. I have used the manual type when I was just getting into electronic repair and they where not very reliable and the wire from the component would still be stuck.


CAUTION: without a chime you have to keep a eye on your gauges since you will not get any audio warnings from engine or safety problems from your vehicle.

The chime is located in the upper left corner of the instrument cluster when looking at the dash. It is a black cylinder about 3/4" round and 1/2" deep, its soldered in between the circuit board and the face plate. The cluster will have to be removed. To do this you have to remove the center dash bezel from around the radio and heat controls, it is held in by metal spring snaps and you just pull it at one corner and working around. I just left all the wire connected and let it hang.

Next you remove the drivers side knee booster under the steering wheel. First you unhook the rod going to the parking brake release by pulling it back and flipping the white plastic retainer down from the rod, then the rod slides out to the side. Remove the 2 lower screws from the parking brake release, you can leave the top one in place. Remove 2 screws from the bottom. The panel will then have a couple spring clip holding it yet but just pop it loose.

Now you remove the bezel from around cluster, remove the screws on the right side and bottom and then you have to pop some spring clips on the left and top. I left the wires connected to the head light switch and rotated the bezel out from behind the steering wheel to the left and left it hanging.

Remove the instrument cluster by removing 4 screws and then you have to work it out but you leave the right side forward so you can get your left hand in behind the cluster to remove the connectors. On mine there are 3 connectors, you have to press a tab on the top of each one, they are kind of tight but working them a little and they come out. Then you have to work the cluster out to the left side , you might have to lift up on the over hanging part of the dash to get more room.

Lay down a soft towel on your work area and set the cluster face down. You have to pull the black plastic cover off the back side of the cluster which is held on by t-15 torque head screws. Then there are black plastic snaps around the outside that hold the black plastic to the white plastic. You can pop them with a small common screwdriver, remove the black cover. Now the instrument cluster is loose from the clear plastic face but leave it together otherwise the instrument face can get damaged. The circuit board is held on by white plastic clips which are part of the console but you can't remove the circuit board since the needles of the gauges go through the face plate. There is not enough room between the circuit board and the white plastic to remove the chime without cutting a chunk out of the white plastic and I didn't want to do that.

On mine I noticed one lead was shorter that the other so I assume its to identify the polarity of the chime. Maybe there is no polarity but I didn't want to take a chance of frying it so I reinstalled it the same way. You use a solder sucker to suck the solder from the terminals and the chime should come loose. I popped a number of the white snaps that hold the board to the white plastic to gain me more room. I had to do all the work to the chime through about a 1/4" slot holding one terminal with a forceps. Reaching in with a forceps to hold the chime by one terminal and then cut the lead of the short one a little shorter so it wouldn't go into the circuit board when reinstalled. Solder one end of a wire to the short terminal then put some electrical tape over the soldered wire to insulate it from the circuit board. There is a plastic insulator that was under the chime which I left in place. Then using the forceps and anything else, work the chime back into the other hole and solder it in place. Now you solder another wire to the remaining hole in the circuit board. Snap the circuit board back in place and then the two wires will be feed through a hole in the back cover, snap the back cover back on and install the torques screws.

I soldered the switch on before reinstalling the cluster and was able to feed the switch and wire through fair size hole in the dash. I used a SPDT switch since I had it already. Now just reverse the order and put everything back, reconnect the battery. I just zip tied the switch under the dash since I didn't see any need to use it while driving.

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