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Loanshark
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I like the idea of all fresh fluid in there. Anyone have tips on how to do it at home?

I don't want to take it to the stealer, and I don't want to void my warranty.
 

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you can get tranny flushes at jiffy lube for like $99... i brought my own fluids and they charged me $39 for the labor/machine
 

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Loanshark
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm afraid of the "power flushes". I really just want all the fluid replaced, instead of just what's in the pan.
 

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Check with Jiffy Lube, or your local garage and see if it's a power flush. Some machines are and others are just a reservoir for the fluid and as the old drains out it replaces it with new. No pumps or anything. I am adamantly against a "power " flush....but we used a BG machine at Ford and like I described above it was merely a reservoir for the old and new fluid...The only pump used to drain/fill is the front pump on the transmission. No reverse flow or additional pumps were used at all. At home there is NO way to get all the fluid out short of pulling the torque converter....or splicing into your cooler lines and trying to refill the trans as it pumps out old fluid....a messy job at the least and there is a good possibility the trans can run dry causing major problems. If you want all the fluid out follow macflights advice...but if you go to a shop make sure you bring your own fluid...they all want to use regular trans fluid and add a friction modifier to it which is NOT the same as mopar tranny fluid.
 

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I see your from cincinnati. So am I. Grew up on the west side of town and now live near Eastgate.
 

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To answer your question--

Get the following:

1) 1/2 inch-18 NPT barb fitting-- get male and female from the parts store b/c I don't remember which one you need.

2) about 6 or 7 feet of the cheapest 3/8 inch transmission hose.

3) a milk bottle marked at 1 quart intervals with a permanent marker

4) about 3 gallons of ATF+4 from the dealer (Don't let them give you ATF+3)

5) other pan-drop stuff-- gasket, rtv, filter etc.

Do the following.

1) Do a pan drop, filter change, adjust bands if you want and put the pan back on and add 5 (or 4--whatever the manual says) quarts of new ATF+4 to fill the pan-- don't run the engine yet.

2) remove the plastic cover thing that is just behind the bumper at the front of the truck (it's held on with those plastic push-pin things.)

3) Locate the transmission cooler lines-- there are two right there and one of them has a screw-type fitting on it. That is the "pressure" line (the one that flows from the transmission to the cooler.)

4) unscrew the fitting on the pressure line (be ready to have some ATF run out). Connect the appropriate barb fitting to the transmission cooler hose you bought and screw that into the side of the pressure line that comes from the tranny.

5) Put the other end of the hose into the marked milk bottle. Support the milk bottle so it won't fall down when ATF starts flowing from the hose, but so you can see the markings.

6) Open the driver's window, shift the truck into neutral (with parking brake engaged) and start the engine, when the milk bottle is filled to the first quart mark, shut off the engine and add one quart through the transmission fill tube. Repeat this, removing and then adding one quart at a time, until you have used all of your new ATF and you will have almost all new fluid in the transmission.
 

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Loanshark
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I wonder if it might be better to remove the return line as well and insert it in another container full of fresh fluid so it gets replaced seamlessly. I'm a little nervous about your method.

Just an FYI my tranny doesn't have bands, it's electronic.
 

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Loanshark
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dodgems said:
I see your from cincinnati. So am I. Grew up on the west side of town and now live near Eastgate.

I live in Lebanon and work in Blue Ash. It's nice to know there's a local out there.
 

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loanshark said:
I wonder if it might be better to remove the return line as well and insert it in another container full of fresh fluid so it gets replaced seamlessly. I'm a little nervous about your method.

Just an FYI my tranny doesn't have bands, it's electronic.
I have a 99 so I do have bands-- didn't know about later models. I have flushed successfully using the method above, I suppose it's possible to mess it up, but not if you're careful about it (as much as with anything).

On my 99 at least, the idea about putting the return line in fresh fluid won't work, because the return line does not pull fluid into it--- the tranny pump pushes the fluid through the pressure line to the cooler and back to the tranny.

I would think the risk to the tranny is minimal anyway since it is cool and only run a few seconds at a time during the process and it is always in neutral.

I make no claim of being an expert, but this has worked for me so far.
 

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Rick your method may be ok if the return runs to the pan and not to the pump or other vital components. I am not sure how they are set up flow wise but I would be leary of the back to back running of the return line dry then the fluid slamming back through the line/passageways after the air bubble that is formed from opening the system and running it 4,5 or however many times it takes to get the dirty fluid out. Any debris that has formed would be knocked free. On the other hand if the fluid just goes from the cooler to the pan it wouldn't be an issue as nothing would be running dry.

Now I will be the first to admit I wouldn't be so paranoid if everyone wasn't out to get me ;) so I may be overly concerned about nothing but untill I got an answer to the return line question I wouldn't do it your way. Besides if you have your own Mopar fluid a shop should only charge about 40-60 bucks and that is worth it to me...if they are using the right equipment.
 

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You raise an interesting point about whether the return flow is needed to lubricate anything and whether it will cause any damage not to have that flow for the minute or two of run time to do this procedure. I have not had problems doing this in the past, but realize that doesn't necessarily mean it's not doing any damage.

I took a look at the FSM hydraulic flow diagram and I think it's ambiguous-- the cooler return just dead-ends on the diagram with a note: "To Lubrication" I'm unsure whether the note applies to that part of the diagram though, and the diagram also shows a number of independent lubrication flows.

I'm going to take my pan off and see if I can tell anything by looking at it (if there's a direct drain into the pan from the return line.)

I'd love to hear from anyone that really knows these transmissions.
 

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If it returns to the pan then I would have no problem doing this myself. It's much cheaper and not hard, just worrysome untill we figure the flow out.

Again I may just be paranoid but with the cost of replacing my trans I would rather be out $100 every 30k vs saving $60 and replacing my trans.
 
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