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Chicks dig bench seats.
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So im looking at getting new coils, rear add-a-leaf, and longer shocks. How difficult will these be to install. I was talkin to my neighbor who drives the jeep trails and has 2 lifted jeeps. He said he wouldn't recommend trying to do this myself. But i didnt think it was THAT hard to do.. Just time consuming.

Anyone have experience with doing a 3" lift or have done it their first time. How bad was it?
 

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it should be easy, the part that will be the most dangerous wil lbe the coil. I put on a 4" lift on my 2wd ram not too long ago and im 17. I did have help from my dad, but that was just to help with the heavier parts that needed more hten one hand for.
 

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Chicks dig bench seats.
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did you have to get it aligned after you were done?
 

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Bushwacker!
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it's easy...even for a first timer. yes alignment is required. if you can't pull the coil out, just disconnect the track bar or sway bar and she'll come out.

mike
 

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I did my 3" on my own in my driveway. As long as you have all the tools then you should be fine. The instrctions help alot. You will want to have it aligned after you have finished.
 

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Built Not Bought
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SHOCKER_97' said:
it should be easy, the part that will be the most dangerous wil lbe the coil. I put on a 4" lift on my 2wd ram not too long ago and im 17. I did have help from my dad, but that was just to help with the heavier parts that needed more hten one hand for.
This isnt the case for a 4wd. The coil isnt compressed in like a 2wd. If you unbolt your shocks, and drop the axle, the OEM coils will fall out.3" lift is very easy and can be done in your driveway with hand tools, floor jack and jackstands
I wish I could keep my coils in. I loose mine when the flex the suspension. :thatfunny
 

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Chicks dig bench seats.
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Discussion Starter #7
V10SPORT: yeah i dont think i will have that problem because in not climbing MT. Everest like some people that i see are preparing to do. Or run over small volkswagon at the very least.

So what tools will i need? Will i have to remove the rear leaf springs to do that Add-a-leaf? Will i need to remove the track or sway bar to install the coils? What time frame am i looking at for a beginner?

Sorry for all the questions, i just wanna get it all straight in my head first.
 

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You dont pull the leaf. You undo the u bolts, put 2 c clamps on each side of the centering pin, Undo centering pin, Undo C clamps, put in AAL, Clamp back down with U bolts, Tighten centering pin, undo c clamps, reinstall U bolts. Thats it for the AAL.
You may need to unbolt the sway bar end links to get the axle to droop far enough to put in the new coils.
 

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Bushwacker!
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basic tools is fine. however, have good size ratchet and socket to do the ubolt nut in the back and a BFH if the nut is rusted on. i believe you'll need to re-tighten nut to 200 foot pounds or something like that. i bought new longer ubolts for the back.

here's a link on basics:

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/lift.php

i believe you can download the instruction manual from skyjackers web site.

mike
 

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Chicks dig bench seats.
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Discussion Starter #10
The Manual from skyjacker for the front coils is kinda confusing since it is for the complete kit and works for many different kits. It says "go to # this if you have this kit and skip this and that".

Im not so worried about the AAL now, but the coils i am.
 

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Mmmmmmmmm, beer.
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v10sport said:
You dont pull the leaf. You undo the u bolts, put 2 c clamps on each side of the centering pin, Undo centering pin, Undo C clamps, put in AAL, Clamp back down with U bolts, Tighten centering pin, undo c clamps, reinstall U bolts. Thats it for the AAL.
You may need to unbolt the sway bar end links to get the axle to droop far enough to put in the new coils.
On the aal, make sure your c-clamps are pretty big so you can get it around everything once you have it undone. When it is together, it looks like all you need is a small c-clamp, but it opens up quite a bit as you undo the leafs.

Also, as you compress the springs back together, put a large screw driver, or something that is almost the exact same diameter as the center bolt (like your old center bolt) into the center bolt hole, inserting it from the top (so you can remove it later). This keeps you hole aligned nicely so when you're leafs are back together, your new center bolt can slide in easily from the bottom. Do not put the new center bolt in as you compress the leafs because if the leafs are not exactly aligned, you can easily strip the threads on the center bolt. Your new center bolt will probably be way too long, so after it is installed, you will want to cut off the excess.

Also, after you tighten up the u-bolts, make sure your u-bolt nuts have thread extending beyond the tips. If not, you will need to get longer u-bolts. Do not drive it if there is no threads sticking out, that is dangerous since they can work loose if the tips are not into thread.

Lastly, make sure you have a torque wrench. The u-bolts need to be torqued, as do the shock bolts. I can't remember the exact torque specs, but you can find that in a Chiltons or Haynes manual.
 

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Mmmmmmmmm, beer.
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For the front, jack up the pickup on one side pretty high and secure on jack stands. Place a jack that you can raise and lower under the axle. Disconnect the lower shock bolt. I like to chain the coil spring into something just in case your jack fails and drops the axle, the coil spring could come flying out if uncompressed to quickly (it is pretty unlikely, but doesn't hurt to be safe). Start slowly lowering the axle. If it stops lowering, and the coil is still tight, you will need to disconnect the sway bar upper bolt (see pic). With that disconnected, you can drop the axle pretty far, until the spring is loose enough to take out by hand. Might have to drop it a little extra to get the taller coil spring in. Insert new coil spring, raise axle. Keep an eye on the sway bar bolt so it goes back in the hole correctly (by the way, while you have this disconnected and lowered, it is a good time to replace the rubber washers on that sway bar connection if they look real flat. New ones are cheap.) Reconnect the sway bar, raise the axle up until you can reconnect the shock, and that is about it. Shock and sway bar bolts need to be torqued to a specific spec too.
 

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Hey BRT, maybe your buddy was just saying YOU shouldn't try it alone. :cheers:

Go to skyjackers web site. You can down load the instructions there.

PS
Hey V-10, nice pic! Although we know the shock MUST be removed to throw a spring. Right??
 

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Chicks dig bench seats.
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Discussion Starter #14
Silver_DodgeRam said:
For the front, jack up the pickup on one side pretty high and secure on jack stands. Place a jack that you can raise and lower under the axle. Disconnect the lower shock bolt. I like to chain the coil spring into something just in case your jack fails and drops the axle, the coil spring could come flying out if uncompressed to quickly (it is pretty unlikely, but doesn't hurt to be safe). Start slowly lowering the axle. If it stops lowering, and the coil is still tight, you will need to disconnect the sway bar upper bolt (see pic). With that disconnected, you can drop the axle pretty far, until the spring is loose enough to take out by hand. Might have to drop it a little extra to get the taller coil spring in. Insert new coil spring, raise axle. Keep an eye on the sway bar bolt so it goes back in the hole correctly (by the way, while you have this disconnected and lowered, it is a good time to replace the rubber washers on that sway bar connection if they look real flat. New ones are cheap.) Reconnect the sway bar, raise the axle up until you can reconnect the shock, and that is about it. Shock and sway bar bolts need to be torqued to a specific spec too.


Are you saying i shouldn't lift the entire front end up, instead just do one side at a time? Wouldn't that flex everything on angle?
 

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Mmmmmmmmm, beer.
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I guess you could do both sides at the same time. I just did mine one side at a time.
 

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Chicks dig bench seats.
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Discussion Starter #16
i was just wondering cause one side at a time seems earier and let likely to slip off the jackstand.
 

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One thing I'm not seeing here BRT is the advise to purchase (2) cam bolts before you start to put the lift on. You may very well get the originals out but, if you damage them during their removal getting new new ones that day may not happen and your gonna be left hangin'.
 

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Chicks dig bench seats.
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Discussion Starter #18
Harley Ram said:
One thing I'm not seeing here BRT is the advise to purchase (2) cam bolts before you start to put the lift on. You may very well get the originals out but, if you damage them during their removal getting new new ones that day may not happen and your gonna be left hangin'.
Where exactly are the Cam bolts? I'm new to this so you may have to elaborate a little.
 

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You don't touch the cam bolts unless your replacing the control arms, which you don't need to do.
 

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The cam bolts are what aligns the front axle. They attach the lower control arm to the axle. What happens is the metal sleeve between the cam bolts and the rubber bushing seizes to the bolt so even after removing the nut, the bolt is held in the bracket by the seized sleeve.
I had to cut the arm from the bracket, torch the rubber from the sleeve and chisel the sleeve from the bolt to remove it.
If your not replacing the lower control arms, this will not be an issue.
 
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