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All Around Great Guy
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Before I start this, I did a search on the above, with no answers. Now, I am going to depot or lowes. I want to go a full 4 inches to the tb with a 3 inch reducer. What should I get, PVC? How would I go about connecting the breather from the filler neck to the intake? Any help would be appreciated. If this does not work I am going with the AIR RAM with JET STREAM. That guy says that physics says that 3 inches is all you will get for airflow with a 4 inch tubing. I would have to say that 4 inches would leave alot of room for air to be used quicker than the 3 inch
 

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I dont see how 4" would give you an advantage over a 3" intake since you've gotta reduce to 3" at the throttle body. I'm not a physics guy or an advanced tuner though so maybe somebody else could explain any advantages. I went with 3" pvc and rubber elbows. Put a HUGE K&N filter on it. I haven't had any issues with the rubber elbows collapsing under WOT but i may put some PVC elbows on there just in case. Just didn't want to mess with the PVC primer and glue at the time. Here's what it looks like:



 

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LiZrD said:
I dont see how 4" would give you an advantage over a 3" intake since you've gotta reduce to 3" at the throttle body.
It would actualy be a disadvantage. You would be causing turbulance at the reducer that will interupt flow. IMO.


LiZrD, nice setup. I love to see people use their heads instead of their wallet. :tup:
 

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One day at a time
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Hey LiZrD take some time now and fabricate some brackets to hold it in place. I'm not making fun of it but I thought for a second or two that was a rubber band holding it there at the washer fluid reservoir. I collect all kinds of brackets and stuff when I'm at work. I have used the stuff on my rides.
 

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Here's mine...







3 inch piping is the way to go. Two 90's and a (I believe) 10 ft section of pvc... Doesn't come any smaller. And I managed to use the rubber sleave off of the stock air box. For the breather I bought a brass nipple (commonly used for garden hoses) and threaded it in the side. And keep it simple, the more bends and turns you put into the intake the will slow the air down as well.
 

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mullinax05 said:
Hey LiZrD take some time now and fabricate some brackets to hold it in place. I'm not making fun of it but I thought for a second or two that was a rubber band holding it there at the washer fluid reservoir.
Please do! :soapbox:
 

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<------------------ Look at the set up in my gallery.
It works.
I've got the timeslips to prove it.
 

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LiZrD said:
I dont see how 4" would give you an advantage over a 3" intake since you've gotta reduce to 3" at the throttle body. I'm not a physics guy or an advanced tuner though so maybe somebody else could explain any advantages. I went with 3" pvc and rubber elbows. Put a HUGE K&N filter on it. I haven't had any issues with the rubber elbows collapsing under WOT but i may put some PVC elbows on there just in case. Just didn't want to mess with the PVC primer and glue at the time. Here's what it looks like:




I bet the 90 degree elbow there is hurting your performance.
 

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Mad Titan said:
<------------------ Look at the set up in my gallery.
It works.
I've got the timeslips to prove it.
MT's setup is nice too! As a matter of fact 360 Air Intakez has a setup just like it...

 

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Yeahh 360 used to preach the 4" was too large and 3" was all you need.... and after a year he became one of the MANY companies to follow our lead and came out with a 4"ID system.... LOL Its fun to watch these guys eat there words. Its up to you but if you make two identical systems one being a 3"ID and the other being a 4"ID you will have MUCH more noticable gains with the 4"ID and between the two the 4" ID is worth approximately .2 over the 3" ID in the 1/8TH!

The transition at the throttle body will act as a stub stack and REMOVE the turbulence as the air is forced to organize. Cold UN-restricted NON-turbulent air makes power. With the larger ID you can get away with the 90 degree bends as there is ZERO restrictions in the 4" tube what so ever. Your throttle body could not possibley flow more air than a 4" tube could provide. What you get is more air with a SLOWER air speed inside... this is another way of controlling the turbulence and noise level. The 4" system will make its noise at 3,000 RPMs and up... where as the 3" system will start to whistle at 2,000.... Thats due to a RESTRICTION.

Make what you feel is best... but dont be afraid to try testing a larger 4"ID.. you will learn there is a LARGE difference in performance... We have done the testing but nothign is stoping you from doing your own... In the end you will find the 4"ID is much better.

SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM

SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM
 

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big boi

how did you thread the nipple in the pvc pipe?
did you just drill the right size hole or something else?
i am planning on making one similar to yours but was unsure how
to connect the other hose to the pipe.
 

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I went with 4" dia with 3" rubber adapters at the ends. runnin (3) 4" pvc sections end to end. The 4" Rubber connectors also act as insulators. The cool thing was, no modification watsoever, everything fit perfectly right out of Lowes..
 

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Correct, but I also used a propane torch to heat up the pvc. It made it a little easier thread it in. The threads are a bit thinner then the pvc. The oven will work as well.

HemiKen said:
big boi

how did you thread the nipple in the pvc pipe?
did you just drill the right size hole or something else?
i am planning on making one similar to yours but was unsure how
to connect the other hose to the pipe.
 

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Here's my CAI. Works great. The proximity to the air from the fan keeps everything cool. Used a digital thermometer on this and the only time I see a rise in temp is when I'm sitting still which insn't often.
 

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Good post!

I like seeing other people's ideas and then benchmarking off of them.

chefred112 you've done the next step for me!
I want to build a 4" Home Depot Induction Package in hopes that the 4" tube will act as a plenum and help out low-end torque.
 

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You know most people take off that restrictive plenum box. My engineers at work have all agreed that you should take it off. Because it would help out alot.
 

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Your filter box is not as restrictive as your resonator box (HEMI BOX)... If you remove ANYTHING you got to remove the resonator... It was not built for BEST performance it was built to keep your engine noise down by causing turbulence and muffling the engine noises... Its an intake muffler at best and ZERO performance is offered by this box.

SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM

SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM
 

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What Nick said!

Put an elbow on it!!!
Increase your flow AND intake noise.
My truck GROWLS now.
GRRRRRRR!!!
 
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