my 88 TBI 318 wont stay running in the morning, starts and dies, starts dies. What exactly is it that causes this on every single one ive ever heard of. Im sick of it and ive only had it 3 days. anyone want a nice ramcharger? help would be much appreciated.
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also I noticed that the throttle body has Holley stamped on the front. my question bieng, is this oem or has it been replaced? the MAF has been replaced, i took off the injector caps and inpected that. it all looks fine. the injectors are bosch. would those be stock? like i said, i dont know alot about mopar and am learnig. any help would be great.
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Holley provided the throttle bodies for Chrysler Corp. during that time and I think they still do. Not sure on the Bosch injectors..they could be replacements or another case of Chrysler using an outside supplier.
Will the engine stay running if you keep your foot on the acclerator?
Will the engine stay running if you keep your foot on the acclerator?
Bosch did make injectors for TBI. They may also have a 7 digit chrysler part #.
As for troubleshooting. 1. Do both injectors work? 2. Have you replaced your fuel filter.- The engine needs more on cold start. 3 Does the idle speed actuator work?
--B-300--
As for troubleshooting. 1. Do both injectors work? 2. Have you replaced your fuel filter.- The engine needs more on cold start. 3 Does the idle speed actuator work?
--B-300--
Yes, Dodgevanman it will stay running if i hold it but not at lower idle. i have to hold it about 1/4 throttle or it will try to die out.
B-300, yes both are working and have voltage. As for the filter, it was just replaced but i suppose the is cheap enough to rule out. Yes the actuator works, when you turn the key on you can see and hear it moving. then when it starts it seems as if it cant make up its mind, in or out.
today I went to the junkyard to find another for other parts and it just ran like crap. cutting out when you let off and step back on it. almost dies from a start. I unplugged the ISC motor and drove it for a few like that but it didnt seem to help. it's really intermitant. would the EGR be a cause. someone did gut the cat, but the EGR line is still there. Also what are a few ways to test if EGR, ISC, MAP, coolent temp sensor, throttle body temp sensor...? Thanks for all the feedback so far. Any help is good help.
B-300, yes both are working and have voltage. As for the filter, it was just replaced but i suppose the is cheap enough to rule out. Yes the actuator works, when you turn the key on you can see and hear it moving. then when it starts it seems as if it cant make up its mind, in or out.
today I went to the junkyard to find another for other parts and it just ran like crap. cutting out when you let off and step back on it. almost dies from a start. I unplugged the ISC motor and drove it for a few like that but it didnt seem to help. it's really intermitant. would the EGR be a cause. someone did gut the cat, but the EGR line is still there. Also what are a few ways to test if EGR, ISC, MAP, coolent temp sensor, throttle body temp sensor...? Thanks for all the feedback so far. Any help is good help.
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On some of the Mopar TB systems, there appears to be two controls for the injector, one which fires the injector during startup and another (the main ECM/PCM) which takes over controlling the injector approximately 1 sec after start. The start circuit seems to have have much more current behind it than the ECM/PCM running feed.
When the plunger in the injector is sticking due to varnish build up, this start signal is able to operate the injector while the running feed from the ECM/PCM doesn't have enough current (injector function is an electromagnet - more current=more pull on the internal plunger). It would start, but immediately stall every time.
You will either need to replace the injector or with the proper cleaning tools, 60Hz pulse pump and cleaner, backflush the injector in a very clean enviroment.
Just getting another TB from a boneyard would cause just enough troubles as your problem since the TB on that can gum up and varnish over time too. That's a no win situation unless you get a rebuilt TB that is all clean.
You can get the ignition engine coil checked for free at AutoZone.
When the plunger in the injector is sticking due to varnish build up, this start signal is able to operate the injector while the running feed from the ECM/PCM doesn't have enough current (injector function is an electromagnet - more current=more pull on the internal plunger). It would start, but immediately stall every time.
You will either need to replace the injector or with the proper cleaning tools, 60Hz pulse pump and cleaner, backflush the injector in a very clean enviroment.
Just getting another TB from a boneyard would cause just enough troubles as your problem since the TB on that can gum up and varnish over time too. That's a no win situation unless you get a rebuilt TB that is all clean.
You can get the ignition engine coil checked for free at AutoZone.
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The ISC actuator is adjustable if I'm not mistaken. On my '85 van, the ISC has a screw on the back side that can be adjusted. Perhaps yours is simply out of adjustment.
yes the ISC motor is adjustable and i have tried adjusting it. doesn't seem to help.
stev thank you, that sounds like what is going on, my buddy is real good with TBIa and other "injections" so he is gonna see what he can do for it. maybe i will try replacing the injectors before i go too far with it.
thank you all for the help and keep it comin if you think of anything else i should know.
:rck: :rck:
are there a few ways to test things like MAP, temp sensors, and any others that could have an affect on it?
stev thank you, that sounds like what is going on, my buddy is real good with TBIa and other "injections" so he is gonna see what he can do for it. maybe i will try replacing the injectors before i go too far with it.
thank you all for the help and keep it comin if you think of anything else i should know.
:rck: :rck:
are there a few ways to test things like MAP, temp sensors, and any others that could have an affect on it?
Stev... yup did the key thing to get the codes, the only things that came up were 12 and 37. 12 is battery disconect andd 37 could be 3 things depending on model.
1. shift light indicator falure (5 speed) mines auto
2. part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89) think this is for the converter lock
3.solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV) not me
4.Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on) not me
i just got done pulling the injectors and inspecting them... also changed my coil because it turns out that it was leaking oil. when i put the injectors back in it started right up ran better than it has yet. i am ordering new ones tommarrow. i inpected them while holding about 1/4 throttle... funny enough the left side one studders. at idle they seem to squirt then studder. i will let you guys knnow how it turns out when i get the injectors in. thanks for all the feedback. soon enough she'll be boggin away with the 35's :rck: :thatfunny :gr_patrio
1. shift light indicator falure (5 speed) mines auto
2. part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89) think this is for the converter lock
3.solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV) not me
4.Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on) not me
i just got done pulling the injectors and inspecting them... also changed my coil because it turns out that it was leaking oil. when i put the injectors back in it started right up ran better than it has yet. i am ordering new ones tommarrow. i inpected them while holding about 1/4 throttle... funny enough the left side one studders. at idle they seem to squirt then studder. i will let you guys knnow how it turns out when i get the injectors in. thanks for all the feedback. soon enough she'll be boggin away with the 35's :rck: :thatfunny :gr_patrio
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