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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone replaced the A/T cooler lines? I have one of them leaking by the radiator. My Hayes manual has no info on them.

Thanks
 

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how bad it it leaking? One of my stock cooler lines has always had a moist appearance since I bought the truck, but it's not leaking enough to hit the ground.
Regardless, replacement involves ordering the entire line, hardline and flexible hose portion...last time I priced it at auto zone it was around $60 or $80...but that was years ago.
What you can do is get some rubber cooler line (like what came with my Hayden tranny cooler) and cut off the part that's leaking and replace it with the rubber line and some clamps.

Will cost about $10 vs $60-$80.
 

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Mine leaks pretty bad also. One think I have heard is that those "quick connect" fittings are a real pain, even with the special tool to remove them.
 

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wrstlr119 said:
Mine leaks pretty bad also. One think I have heard is that those "quick connect" fittings are a real pain, even with the special tool to remove them.
that's another reason I went with the rubberized hose, it was a pita to disconnect those fitting, and I didn't feel like spending $15 on a tool that I would use once (when installing the tranny cooler).
If the rubber hose ever starts leaking it's a lot easier to go buy some replacement hose from any local parts house then trying to order replacement hard line.
Plus it was easier to route my cooler lines with the hose than trying to bend, without kinking, the hard line.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It leaks enough that it collects on my suspension and then pools on the concrete. It is leaking where the rubber meets the fitting as it connects to the radiator. Do I need to get the special tool and open the fittings at both ends of the soft line and then insert new soft line? Hook me up. i have been waiting for you guys.
 

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RandallGee said:
It leaks enough that it collects on my suspension and then pools on the concrete. It is leaking where the rubber meets the fitting as it connects to the radiator. Do I need to get the special tool and open the fittings at both ends of the soft line and then insert new soft line? Hook me up. i have been waiting for you guys.
If it's the softline, which is the only rubber part I have on my lines, then just saw it before and after the part/connector that's leaking and replace it with some softline (rubber hose) and 2 clamps.
If I remember correctly, there is about 6-10" of hardline coming out of the radiator, then the softline sections, the hardline the rest of the way back.

edit: make sure you de-burr the sawed lines before you install the hose so you don't get any metal particles in the cooling lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It seems to be leaking where the male and female ends connect to the radiator. I am probably screwed and have to purchase the whole line. So how do I disconnect the female from the male to the radiator? I have fuel line seperator tools that I used for the fuel line removal at one time. Will the same removal sleeves work?
 

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did you not read?, remove the rubber section and replace it, that will include the part that is leaking which is the fitting because your not actually using a fitting anymore just the barb on the male nipple.
 

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Before spending hard earned money to ma mopar, take the line off and pop out the little O'ring, check it out, its likley dried and cracked from time and heat. shimy down to the local parts store and get a few, and then replace all the ones you can get to easily.
Even the quick connects, which is why they leak, the orings shrink from heat and time, mine do/did.
i tried buying the factory lines from chrysler, its easier to make your own than it is to find them.
I added a factory cooler, where as my stock setup just went into the radiator, but since it was like that anyhow, what i did was run the hot fluid from the trans, into the radiator, then back out of the radiator and from a homebuilt rubber line to the factory cooler and then factory quicklock back to the trans. this way the hottest fluid disperses the most heat to the huge radiator, then it can cool farther as it passes through the factory cooler.

And if you want, while you are taking lines off, i suggest replacing/ removing/ or cleaning the check valve in the factory line. its the large odd looking section of the flexible quick connect going to the radiator, cant miss it if its still there. these tend to plug up after time and cause the tranny to overheat and fail.
their reason ive been told for being there was so that the lines stayed full of fluid for people who fire up their trucks and drop them into gear and take off quickly without letting the fluid pressure build up first. many guys have removed them, just make sure when you put it into gear you wait a second or two for the fluid to pump through.
see, in the chrysler trannys, they do not circulate fluid/circulate very little fluid in park. which is why i leave my truck in nuetral when idle'ing or cooling off, so the fluid circulates and cools.
jmho

Hope this helps, and helps save some cash and time.
 
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