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Discussion Starter #1
Truck starts and runs great after sitting an hour or so. But if it's warm.. has trouble starting back up immediately. Seems like it floods out.
 

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Red Trucker
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Can't flood it, it's port fuel injected if it's actually a 1993 5.2 Magnum. You could have leaky injectors, but but not likely. There is a check valve that's part of the fuel pump assembly. When it fails fuel drains back into the tank. This or a shit battery are usually the causes of those symptoms. Battery is easy to test, unfortunately check valve replacement requires tank drop (or bed lift).
 

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Step -1 - Pick up a copy of the factory service manual for your truck, to have a copy of the information to perform the next steps properly.

Step 0 - Pull your codes (with the key dance). See if the ECU thinks something is wrong. Also, check the fuel pressure. I bet it's not leaking down; if it was, you'd have cold start problems also. But doesn't hurt to check it.

Step 1 - Check your Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor; if it's out of whack, the ECU will have hard starts under certain circumstances. Due to age, I'd plan on replacing it - it's the 2 wire one, I THINK it's under the A/C compressor for the 1993.

Step 2 - Fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor. How old? If you're not sure, or over about 25,000 miles, replace them. Don't check, don't argue, just replace.

Step 3 - Check the plenum gasket. Easiest way is to peek down the throttle body (while it's not running!) and see how dirty and oily the bottom of the plenum is. If it's very oily, gasket is probably blown. While doing the plenum, pick up a new Mopar PCV valve; swap the PCV valve also to keep the oily down. (Frams are known to suck more oil, as do most aftermarket PCV valves. My 1991 Cougar went from a quart every 700 miles to a quart every 2,100 miles by swapping back to a Motorcraft from a almost-new Fram.)

Step 4 - O2 sensors. How old? They're not checked when the engine is cold, but if it's warm enough, they'll be in circuit and used. And may be out of whack. (Use Mopar or NTK only - Bosch sensors don't agree with our ECUs that much - and you might ought to plan on replacing it anyway due to age. They get lazy and can cost you some in fuel economy.)

Step 5 - Time to start actually getting down with it, if it's still having the warm start problem. Time to find someone with a competent DLC scanner to ask the ECU what it thinks is going on (I have a used MT-2500 from SnapOn with the proper carts and a CHRY1 adapter; those can be had for about $300 more or less in combination on eBay since they're not supported for vehicles this century.)

Step 6 - Compression and leakdown tests.

RwP
 
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