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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone tell me whats up with my truck.I have posted befor about the"death wobble" and thought a new track bar would do the trick...I havent replaced it yet..Today I was under the truck shaking stuff around and I found that when jacked up the tire shakes.There is a rod that comes from the steering box and runs over to the passenger side wheel.From there there is a rod that runs from about 1 foot in all the way across to the drivers side.That is the bar that is very loose.I even have a steering stabilizer on it but it is way to loose.What exactly is that bar?? From the pictures of track bars I have looked at it is not a track bar.Am I wrong??How and what do I have to replace to fix it???Help!!BIGGDOGG
 

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Hotty Toddy Gosh Almighty
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From what I am understanding, it sounds like you have a bad tie rod or one that is wearing badly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Bro thanks.Is that what that bar is??Its the one with threads and seems adjustable??How do you fix that??are the bearings or bushings that connect to other bars changeble??or do I need a new tie rod?? After market brands???.Going to a swap meet tomorrow maybe I can get lucky..NJBIGGDOGG
 

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Hotty Toddy Gosh Almighty
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Yeah, that is what that part is called. To be honest, I have never looked at the ones on the 2G Rams that close to see what is serviceable and what has to be replaced. I guess you will need to go to your dealer or your autoparts and have them look up that area to see if it's available as one whole assembly or seperate parts. I'm sure someone will jump in here too who has worked on theirs and will know for sure, but I CAN Tell you that the part in question is indeed the tierod.
 

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Built Not Bought
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The bar that runs from thre steering box to the right side is teh drag link. The bar that runs to the left knuckle is the tie rod. If theyare really loose, you can get the death wobble, bug generally you just have alot of slop in your steering
 

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The Green Machine
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Ramsportrocks said:
Njbigg,
i have a .pdf saved of the front suspension if you want it e-mailed to you
let me know.
Ramsport, would you mind posting that PDF here? I'm interested in that as well. If it's too big to post, would you email me?

Thanks, ED
 

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Discussion Starter #10
V10 ,Hey it is the tie rod according to how you explain it..It has about 3 or 4 connections to it.1 Is mt steering stabilizer.That too seems to be shot.You can grab that bar one handed and just turn it up and down..The wobble is ALWAYS when the driver side hits a big bump.not the left..If it is the tie rod how do I fix it????
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am still waiting to hear what and how to replace.Do I just go to the dealer and ask for a tie rod??Can I replace the bushings instead??Help
 

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If it's the tie rod, I would let a dealer or a front end shop do the job. You will definitely need a wheel alignment afterward, so you'll have to bring it to a shop anyway. Why not let them handle the whole job and make sure it gets done right?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Going through a divorce and was hopeing to save alittle cash..If I could do it myself ..Than just pay for an alighnment
 

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Built Not Bought
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You dont need to go to the dealer to get the tie rod changed. Mark the old tie rod and thread the new one as far in as the old one. Ive never had my truck aligned at a shop. I use a good old tap measure and set the toe in a 1/4" and truck goes straight and has even tire wear.
 

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You first need to determine which tie rod end needs replacing. There are 2 pairs. Each pair consists of 1 Inner and 1 Outter tie rod end. The "Inner" tie rods connect to the Drag Link. The "Outters" connect to the steering knuckles. It is of UTMOST IMPORTANCE to indentify and specify these parts when purchasing them. Once you've obatined them, you must also segregate them into matched pairs prior to installation (ie. Drivers Side Inner and Outter and Passenger Side Inner and Outter) .One end of each Tie Rod end is threaded and fits into a threaded sleeve, secured by a compression collar. The other end of the Tie Rod end (the part that goes to the Steering Knuckle or Drag Link has a tapered post with coarse threads and a hole that accepts a Cotter Key that in turn secures the Castle Nut from backing out. A careful examination of these parts before removal will clarify.
To remove the tie rod ends you'll need a Hammer (BFH preferrably) Pickle Fork, Box and Open End Wrenches, Ratchet Wrench and Sockets, Needle Nose Pliers and Side Cutters, and plenty of PB Blaster (or other rust buster penetrating lubricant).Only Work on ONE Tie Rod End at a time!!!!
Liberally spray down the compression collars, sleeve, and threaded sections of the Tie Rod ends with the PB Blaster. While you're waiting for the penetrating oil to do it's thang, you can remove the Cotter Keys from the Castle Nuts. The Cotter Keys will more than likely have been formed (beat down) around the top and the bottom of the Castle Nut. Using the Needle Nose Pliers straighten out the legs of the Cotter Keys so they are straight and in line with the hole they travel through. Now grab the head of the Cotter Key (rounded loop end) with the side cutters and with a twisting motion pull the Cotter Key through the hole. Now determine what size the bolt head and nut are on the Compression Collar and match with corresponding Box End Wrench and Socket.

Only break loose the Compression Collar closest to the Tie Rod End that you are working on!!!

Break the nuts loose and back out a couple of turns. Now you can move on to the Castle Nuts. Break these loose and back off so you have a good 1/8" gap between the face of Steering Knuckle/Drag Link and the face of the Castle Nut.

Now the FUN part.

Place the jaws of the Pickle Fork between the Tie Rod Head and the Steering Knuckle/Drag Link and Schmack the Shit outta the Pickle Fork (opposite the end from the jaws mind you...) with your BFH until you see the gap between the Castle Nut and the Steering Knuckle/Drag Link disappear. Once this happens you can back the Castle Nut all the way off the tapered stud and finish schmacking the Pickle Fork until the tapered stud pops out of the hole in the Steering Knuckle/Drag Link.
Now this part is CRITICAL.....
Place either a Open End Wrench or Adjustable Cresent Wrench on the flats where the Tie Rod Head (big end where the tapered stud is) and unscrew the Tie Rod End from the Threaded Sleeve.
BE SURE TO COUNT THE EXACT NUMBER OF TURNS IT TAKES TO COMPLETELY UNSCREW THE TIE ROD END FROM THE SLEEVE.
Once you have the Tie Rod End removed, it's just a matter of reversing the above procedure. HOWEVER you DO NOT Schmack the new Tie Rod End back into the Steering Knuckle/Drag Link. You simply draw the stud into them using the Castle Nut. Be sure you've drawn the stud in fully and be sure to line up the hole in the Tapered Stud with the Castle Nut so you can rre-install the Cotter Key....
Install and Lubricate Zerk Fitting with grease (if so equipped) and make a appointment to have the front end aligned........
 

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OMG...... stop with the big words already........ premonition, manifest, demise, problem....... where does it end................LOL

BTW, that was a very good description of the tie rod end change out.
 
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