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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 97 1500 4x4..

Problem is at idle it only produces luke warm heat at best. Not good enough for the weather were having right now (-30's).

When i get going it produces good heat. And even better the faster im going.

The engine temp is reading fine, and the anti-freeze is topped up, but when i checked it last night at the gas station it almost looked a little brownish??

Suggestions?
 

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Try to flush it. It sounds like the heater core is clogged and flushing may loosen up the debris in it. If that doesn't work then you may need to replace the heater core.

The likely reason it heats more the faster you go is that the engine spins faster, causing the water pump to spin faster, which would push the water at a greater pressure through the clogged heater core.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply Kent. Shes booked in for a flush, and oil change tomorrow morning. Hopefully that will fix my problem..
 

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Had the same problem today. SO I changed the thermostat and fluched the cooling system. Seems to have helped but I still want it hotter. Let me know if yours works out.
 

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Flush, new fluid, new rad(leaking) + oil change(was due) = $700 bucks.

Problem is not fixed. Garage suggests a water pump ($350) because they believe the heater core($800) is flowing fine. But the water pump was replaced in may of 2006, not even a year ago.

Do dodges have a reputations for blowing water pumps?

Ugh. What and expensive week, and the future looks even more costly. This couldnt come at a worse time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also, i do have a slotted winter front. But On or off wont make a diffrence in this senario. Heat gets hotter as your moving. Its something to do with the coolant system.
 

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That sucks; $700 bucks and still no heat. If the water pump is bad, it seems like it would leak or give you overheating problems but you say the temp gauge shows fine. You don't have a 160* thermostat do you? I had one in a Corvette and luke warm heat was all I could hope for. I'd put in a 180 during winter and use the 160 for summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I havent fixed anything else on the dodge, the wallet cant afford anymore heartbreak.

I will find out if its the water pump come warmer temps. Right now its been -20 *C at best.

Im not sure about the thermostat, I'll have to ask my garage what they put in.
 

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REDNECK SPACESTATION
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Tires said:
Flush, new fluid, new rad(leaking) + oil change(was due) = $700 bucks.

Problem is not fixed. Garage suggests a water pump ($350) because they believe the heater core($800) is flowing fine. But the water pump was replaced in may of 2006, not even a year ago.

Do dodges have a reputations for blowing water pumps?

Ugh. What and expensive week, and the future looks even more costly. This couldnt come at a worse time.
mine went out at 89,000.
Been fine since I replaced it.
To check for atleast minimal flow, remove the radiator cap and let it warm up.
The water level should surge as the rpm's raise once it's warm.
But since you've eliminated everything else in the cooling system, that leaves the water pump.
Like stated above, usually when the water pump goes out it leaks from the weep hole on the shaft.
 

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I still have the same problem. I changed the heater core, thermostat and water pump. Full flush and I still get luke warm heat from the vents and the defroster. Floor is hot. Recirc is hot. When on floor and defrost the floor is hot and the defrost is cold. Im at a loss as are a few mechanic friends.
 

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Ironram
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brandonh420 said:
I still have the same problem. I changed the heater core, thermostat and water pump. Full flush and I still get luke warm heat from the vents and the defroster. Floor is hot. Recirc is hot. When on floor and defrost the floor is hot and the defrost is cold. Im at a loss as are a few mechanic friends.

my 98 does the exact same thing and it's pissing me off with how cold it's been lately i was going to change the core but glad i didnt
 

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REDNECK SPACESTATION
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brandonh420 said:
I still have the same problem. I changed the heater core, thermostat and water pump. Full flush and I still get luke warm heat from the vents and the defroster. Floor is hot. Recirc is hot. When on floor and defrost the floor is hot and the defrost is cold. Im at a loss as are a few mechanic friends.
sounds like the vent damper isn't functioning correctly.
I have never dug into it, but a Haynes or Chilton manual should explain how to repair/replace it.
 

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I'm having a heating problem also and after readign this thread I checked some things in my truck. It seems I too have the prblem where the floor vents blow hot but the defrost vents blow cold. My guess is that a dampener inside the heater box no longer functions properly.
 

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chizzle1 said:
sounds like the vent damper isn't functioning correctly.
I have never dug into it, but a Haynes or Chilton manual should explain how to repair/replace it.


No dice. At least the haynes. It has very little info on the job. I ran a vacuum test on all the door vacuum actuators. The blend door is cable operated. That works fine as well. The floor heat blows from the fan directly through the core and down it's own channel to the floor exits which explains why it is hot. The recirc or max AC closes the fresh air entrance then pushes it through the vents and it is hot. The only things that are cold are the defrost or windshiled vents and the dash vents without it on recirc. Either of the two mixed with floor provide only hot air at the floor and noticeably colder air at the former than they would be by themselves. This has stumped a few people. Everybody runs through the list of usual suspects and they have been done. However, not many have torn apart a heat/ac box before. I have mostly given up on it and learned how to run the recirc till it starts to fog and then switching to floor to clear up the windows. :banghead:
 

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REDNECK SPACESTATION
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brandonh420 said:
No dice. At least the haynes. It has very little info on the job. I ran a vacuum test on all the door vacuum actuators. The blend door is cable operated. That works fine as well. The floor heat blows from the fan directly through the core and down it's own channel to the floor exits which explains why it is hot. The recirc or max AC closes the fresh air entrance then pushes it through the vents and it is hot. The only things that are cold are the defrost or windshiled vents and the dash vents without it on recirc. Either of the two mixed with floor provide only hot air at the floor and noticeably colder air at the former than they would be by themselves. This has stumped a few people. Everybody runs through the list of usual suspects and they have been done. However, not many have torn apart a heat/ac box before. I have mostly given up on it and learned how to run the recirc till it starts to fog and then switching to floor to clear up the windows. :banghead:
I don't know if I'd dig into it without having some type of reference material, although usually if I take something apart I can put it back together.

I'd try searching for a manual that outlines the procedure online, may even try the stealership and see if they can get you some reference material.

If it's not vacuum related, then it may just need to be lubed with some light oil, or cleaned out.
 

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here you folks go. This is out of the service manual. just click on the image and open it. then right click and save the images to your computer so you have for later.Hope this helps.
 

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REDNECK SPACESTATION
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thanks :tup:
 

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