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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Whenever I have my fan on, it seems to blow a lot of fuses. Also, doesn't seem to matter if it's on LOW, MED or HIGH, always blows about the same amount of air and of course, the wires warm up until the fuse blows. Kind of strange... I'm using a 30A fuse but that's not really the issue, the issue is, the wires are getting hot so the fuse is perfectly justified in blowing. What would cause this?
 

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Do It In A Van
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You could have an unusual amount of resistance in the blower motor or switch.
 

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This is a weak spot in the wiring system...one of many. If you don't get the current draw problem fixed the fuse will melt the plastic in the fuse block. You need to pull the wiring, the dash switch, the resistor block from the dash and repair/replace it. You may also have a bad blower motor and the heater box under the dash may be filled with leaves and all kinds of junk. You'll need to clean it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Pull the dash switch? What should I do with the dash switch when I pull it out? I understand the resistor block and blower but don't quite follow what the dash switch's role in this could be.
 

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What he's saying is 'pull and replace'... ;)
As much as I LOVE Dodge's... They do have a weak electrical system...
Anyway, look at it this way... Voltage is always a given. It is what it is. All electrical devices will pull as much amperage as they need to run. If there is resistance somewhere in the line, the device will try to pull more amps and the usual result is a blown fuse, or as you say, the wires getting hot.
As advised, you should replace all the main componets. As in the blower motor, switch and resistor block.
(Example... When I first got my Powerwagon the fuse would blow when I switched on the high beams... Turns out the headlight switch was full of this white crusty crud... An old switch and was introducing resistance into the circuit... Replaced the switch and it has been fine ever since)
If the blower motor is the original one, that would be my first suspect. Brand new blower motors aren't all that expensive if you buy one without the cage on it. Rebuilts are even cheaper, but it is a rebuilt. Switches are cheap as well as the resistor block. Replace them all and then don't worry about it afterwards :D
 

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BTW..... Absolutly dig your 'Dukes of Hazzard' paint!!! I was actually thinking of doing mine with the 'Stars n' Bars' streching from front to back, but no "01" on the door. Post a bigger pic, if ya got one! :crazy:
 

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B. Herder said:
What he's saying is 'pull and replace'... ;)
As much as I LOVE Dodge's... They do have a weak electrical system...
Anyway, look at it this way... Voltage is always a given. It is what it is. All electrical devices will pull as much amperage as they need to run. If there is resistance somewhere in the line, the device will try to pull more amps and the usual result is a blown fuse, or as you say, the wires getting hot.
As advised, you should replace all the main componets. As in the blower motor, switch and resistor block.
(Example... When I first got my Powerwagon the fuse would blow when I switched on the high beams... Turns out the headlight switch was full of this white crusty crud... An old switch and was introducing resistance into the circuit... Replaced the switch and it has been fine ever since)
If the blower motor is the original one, that would be my first suspect. Brand new blower motors aren't all that expensive if you buy one without the cage on it. Rebuilts are even cheaper, but it is a rebuilt. Switches are cheap as well as the resistor block. Replace them all and then don't worry about it afterwards :D
Good post B. Herder...The switch I was referring to is the blower motor switch, the plug and the crimp on terminals at the back of the switch may melt or suffer heat stress. When any metal component gets heat damaged, the physical properties change some, this change causes more resistance, more resistance causes more heat and the process continues until meltdown. This is sometimes called Thermal Runaway. This also applies to the connector on the resistor block, fuse block and the blower motor connector. The wiring harness for the blower circuit is just a few wires by itself and you don't need to pull the whole dash harness. Take a look at the plastic under the blower motor fuse and I'm sure you will see some melting taking place. The high current draw through the fuse block can be cured with the installation of a relay, but that's another story and should only be done after the original wiring has been checked/repaired.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds good! Thanks for the info guys.. now to find the switch, resistor block and blower motor. ;)
 

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Try www.partsamerica.com
(Shucks, Kragen, Checkers ... Whatever they call it in your neck of the woods)
Prices are pretty good, shipping is free if over a $100.00 and no sales tax.
Takes about a week to get your parts, but your not burning $2.50 a gallon gas chasing down parts.... ;)
 

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When I got my first Dodge truck, the fan was also blowing the same amount of air no matter which posistion I had the switch. If I remember correctly, someone had changed out the motor and crossed the wires when putting it back in... worth looking into I think. I wasn't blowing fuses though. Check it out.

Gitterdude
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Gitterdude: sounds like something to look at. The guy who I bought this truck from didn't seem to pay much attention to what he was doing. And B.Herder: check my photo album, there are a bunch of larger photos in there for you including updated photos and interior shots.
 

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Hey, great pics! I'm assuming that you live in a part of the country where displaying the stars n' bars doesn't yet get you publicly ostracized, or eggs thrown at ya....
I have a small sticker on the back window of mine and nobody seems to pay it too much attention. I did have one person, who didn't even know me, see it and told me I was a racist. Eh, oh well ;)
I like the matching interior colors.... You've obviously spent a lot of time and $$ on yer rig. Anything special under the hood? And was that dual steering stabilizers I saw on the steering linkage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks for taking an interest! Yah it's a 360, bored .030" with an edlebrock performer intake and some brand of cam I can't recall for some reason.. lol headers, holley 600 4bbl. I've installed the proper 11 note Dixie horn and did all the paint myself (and some body work). Though I was really interested in a fun truck so I didn't really spend a LOT of time or money on the body and paint. It's actually just a couple of coats of primer, several coats of orange and a couple coats of clear. All unsanded. Some day I'll do it up right but for now it's the look I was after. ;)

And as to my location.. uh.. no. I live in a yank infested IOWA. I get a lot of people giving me the number 1 finger (not the middle one) and haven't really had anyone approach me about it though my employer did try to tell me not to bring it to work any longer once because someone complained that it "scared them". I told my employer I'll drive whatever I want. ;)
 

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thanks for taking an interest!

Of course! Hey, we PW brothers are few and far between! Hell, anybody can have a Ford or a Chevy, but a PW? I'll bet even God himself has a PW in his garage... :D

Yah it's a 360, bored .030" with an edlebrock performer intake and some brand of cam I can't recall for some reason.. lol headers, holley 600 4bbl.

GREAT. I'll bet that sucker jumps 6 feet straight up when you romp on the gas! Nice engine build :)
When my 360 gives it up, I plan on much the same build. Funny thing is, after doing a compresson check just last week, on a poorly maintained engine (Until I got it) it still has 120-140 psi throughout all cylinders. Not too bad for 170,000+ miles.



I've installed the proper 11 note Dixie horn and did all the paint myself (and some body work). Though I was really interested in a fun truck so I didn't really spend a LOT of time or money on the body and paint. It's actually just a couple of coats of primer, several coats of orange and a couple coats of clear. All unsanded. Some day I'll do it up right but for now it's the look I was after.

Love it :D

And as to my location.. uh.. no. I live in a yank infested IOWA.

Hmmmm... Last time I was through there (99') it seemed like a pretty Conservative place..... (RE: *******)....
I even saw a bit of stars n' bars in WI....


I get a lot of people giving me the number 1 finger (not the middle one) and haven't really had anyone approach me about it though my employer did try to tell me not to bring it to work any longer once because someone complained that it "scared them".

Boo-Hoo.


I told my employer I'll drive whatever I want.

Heh heh heh.... There ya go....
I live in the NE corner of WA. state. Almost to Canada, and damn-near in ID. We have our 'rep' and all the west-coasters are trying their best to disspell that.. Legitimate or not.
The last time I got pulled over, about a year ago, the 'county mountie' asked what the sticker on the back window was all about'..... As if it were any of her business.... I just put on my best southern drawl, and said "Well, miss... Ain't really `bout nuthin.... When y'all come from Biloxi South Caroline... Them Stars n' Bars is common as peach pie..."

She left (without a ticket BTW) scratching her head. I've never been as far south as Pennsylvania...
:D
 

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haha, i know i get weird looks just driving my truck.. i couldnt imagine the looks with your paint job.. seems like everyone's working on their AC about now, i've just been replacing a bunch of parts for mine lol.
 

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Your rig? It just seems like your normal 'cherry' PW.... :D
Maybe you get 'looks' because it isn't the 'run-of-the-mill' rig?
(Yet another reason to own a PW) :D

AC? That's what windows are for, m'man! (Juuust kidding.... I used to live in CA. so I know how hot it gets)

So are you going to bid on that green grille? Might not be a bad deal, if you want to put some elbow-grease into it....

I got another email for a grille for my 79' rig.... from MI. .... Only $60.00 this time.
Of course it had a couple of MAJOR dents in it. I think I'll pass on it...

Ya know, looking at the stuff on ebay.... Hell, if I'd of kept my 69' Roadrunner, or my 72' Duster, I could have sold a few parts from either and completely bought anything I wanted for my PW... Sigh.
 

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ha.. i talked to my dad, and he just is afraid of the stripper going through and ruining the bright aluminum finish.. so i dont know, he doesnt want me to get it.. and in the end, everything i do on my truck has to be OK'd by him.. i dont know, he's gonna check into stripping it some, but i think im just gonna wait until i find a bright aluminum one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You can strip down all you want, even if you think you've ruined the alum finish you're OK because you've always got another layer of metal to expose and shine up. Just get yourself a buffing compound and bring the shine back to life. Search google for "metal polishing". I have an old 67 ski boat with a rear view mirror made of metal that I had to shine up. It's really not tough. Though there's a lot more metal on the grille than on a little ole mirror.
 

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ive tried all of what you guys have said but mine still blows fuses
so i installed a 20amp breaker so it just trips it untol it cools back down and comes back on
 

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chino_flynn said:
ive tried all of what you guys have said but mine still blows fuses
so i installed a 20amp breaker so it just trips it untol it cools back down and comes back on

This is a very picky circuit when the vehicle gets older as when it was new it runs close to the 20 amp rating of the fuse. I've had my 77 since brand new and it runs fine. If you have a tilt steering column you also have to check the ignition switch and connectors for melting. Power is supplied from the ignition switch to the fuse block for the blower motor. Also when you have a continuous problem all parts and wiring have to be fixed at the same time. If you replace one bad part at a time it has already caused stress to the other parts. The best cure for this problem is to install a relay for the high blower circuit to keep the high current out of the fuse block.
 

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