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dodgeram2500
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I am like fedddd up I have pacesetter shorty headders on my truck and on the drivers side I had the headder gasket replaced 2 and it needs it again alll in under a year. My question is who makes really strong headder gaskets I brought the ones from Nappa and they don't seam to work so does any one know who makes the best gaskets I don't even care how much they cost.
 

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I had the same problem, and sadly have gotten pretty good at changing them. I currently have two different gaskets on my truck, the drivers side is Mr. Gasket, and the pass side is the 1/8th inch spectra gasket. Ive had the biggest problem with the drivers side as well, the first couple gaskets I blew out was due to me not prepping the surface and using cheap header bolts. My biggest thing to make sure i don't get any leaks is after the new gas goes on check the bolts every night until the gasket quits shrinking and swelling so much, oh and a bit of loc tight
 

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dodgeram2500
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Discussion Starter #3
when u used the spectra gasket did u have any problems after that? i looked online and i found an aluminum one and a copper one idk witch one is better if any.
 

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Try this "Remflex" brand. It's a thick, metal-ish material gasket that crushes quite a bit. They are made to resolve leak problems. I have been leak free since installing mine. I'm a big fan of the product.

http://catalog.remflex.com/
 

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Hesburn
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93 Posts
I was having the problem with my longtube headers, I finally bought the copper gaskets. Hughes sells them and so does summit, I also bought the stage 8 locking bolts and so far so good. Their made by SCE gaskets I beleive.
 

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Admin - David Mack
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This comes all the time in the 3Gen Ram Performance section and the folks in the know always say to use factory gaskets, grade-8 nuts-n-bolts, with locking clips.

:)
 

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dodgeram2500
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Discussion Starter #7
ok thanks for the help ill probably order the Remflex gaskets with the nuts with the clips from summit racing
 

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I'm using the copper gaskets hughes sells, know problems yet.
 

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from experience on my old set of pace shorties i used the gaskets and bolts that came with them along with RTV ULTRA COPPER....took them off to coat them and used fel pro gaskets buttered up with the RTV and neither gasket leaked....same with my doug thorley's iam running now....helps to have the rest of the system hung correctly as to not put stress on the headers....from experience the lockin bolts are not required
 

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i've never needed to retorque my flange bolts either. just watch the length of thread in the block. you need about 1/2" of thread bite. most of what summit sells is only 3/4 long. gives me only 1/4 bite in the head. i had to special order arp 1" bolts just for enough thread 1/2 in the head. this standard bolt has not backed out in three years.
 

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bolts might be too short for my liking. though my flanges are 3/8ths thick! how much thread will bite the head on a .875 length bolt?
 

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i use 1 inch
 

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The flanges on my Thorley's are 3/8", plus the weld for the primaries sticks out(it is ground flat, just not flush to the flange).

It looks like that means that the stage 8 bolts will have a little over 3/8" of thread in the head. I have no idea what an ideal amount is.

I take it the size and thread of the fasteners is the same between the LA and Magnum motors?
 

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good idea. i felt it was needed to have more than 1/4 in the head. bout 1/2 will stay held tight with no probs, lots of bite.
yes the header bolts for the LA and magnums are the same gauge and thread pitch.
 

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More than 10 years ago I put a set of flow tech headers on my old 1967 c-10 chevy truck. I did a few things to insure they did not leak.

1st. I cut the webbing in between the tubes so the flanges could move independently.
2nd bought copper gaskets.
3rd bought good anti back out header bolts.
4th bought some spray copper coat.
5th sprayed both sides of the gaskets, the headers and the mounting surface of the heads. Let it all get tacky and then assembled them.
6th properly torqued the bolts and then let it all dry.
Finally I ran the truck and baked the copper coat on. Like I said it has been over 10 years and not a single leak from the headers.
 

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never heard of seperating the flanges. humm. does a cast iron head really move around that much? maybe if it was alu heads?
 
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