i have a 86 d150 with a 318.a few weeks ago i flooded it out.for about the past week(not every day) when i have started it up it took a few mins and today nothing.it seems like it is dragging and then it has started,i let it run for a min or so and then turn it off and retry and its not starting,just sounds like it is dragging.today i tried and it drags with about a 3 second pause in between.then it started to click.if i am not mistaken the PO said he replaced the starter.the battery has a date of 2/06.the wires dont look to good and i have cleaned the post and poured some soda on it to clean.still have acid on it though.the alternator looks kind of old and belts are tight.also what does the voltage regulator do?thanks
hard starting-a few questions
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Sounds like the charging system or battery or cable(s) isn't up to snuff. Besides the starter dragging, the ignition has a hard time operating on low voltage.
If the battery is dying, it won't take a charge and you'll get results like you've stated. If the charging system is faulty, it won't keep the battey charged, and you end up with the same results.
(Remember, the battery is there to only start your rig. If the alternator system is working properly, after the engine is running, everything is powered by the alternator system.)
BUT .... the battery and charging system could be good, but dirty/corroded wiring/connections/cables could also be causing your problem. Which in the long run, will produce the same results.
The voltage regulator, controls the amount of current running through the field (rotor) winding(s) which in turn controls the voltage/current output of the stator windings...
I would first put a battery charger on it and see if it 'takes' a charge... Or try jumping it... That will narrow it down....
If the battery is dying, it won't take a charge and you'll get results like you've stated. If the charging system is faulty, it won't keep the battey charged, and you end up with the same results.
(Remember, the battery is there to only start your rig. If the alternator system is working properly, after the engine is running, everything is powered by the alternator system.)
BUT .... the battery and charging system could be good, but dirty/corroded wiring/connections/cables could also be causing your problem. Which in the long run, will produce the same results.
The voltage regulator, controls the amount of current running through the field (rotor) winding(s) which in turn controls the voltage/current output of the stator windings...
I would first put a battery charger on it and see if it 'takes' a charge... Or try jumping it... That will narrow it down....
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you must take a good look at the cables
they can corrode internally and while still looking good on the outside the can have high resistance and low current flow
when you say dragging I assume you mean that the starter is not turning over the engine in as lively a fashion as it should
I would replace the cables as a first step
Take you battery to one of the auto parts chain stores and have it tested as well
they can corrode internally and while still looking good on the outside the can have high resistance and low current flow
when you say dragging I assume you mean that the starter is not turning over the engine in as lively a fashion as it should
I would replace the cables as a first step
Take you battery to one of the auto parts chain stores and have it tested as well
i just looked at the wires for the battery.the neg cable has a a smaller wire that goes to the radiator support,it is looking bad-the cover is torn at the support.the positive has 3 wires,1 wire is smaller and it goes to the side of the fender and it is connected at the bolt where it is to tighten it.is this on all the trucks or could someone done this for some reason thanks
Not quite sure what PO may have done, but ....
You should have the NEG cable bolted to the engine block. Usually in front of the driver-side head. I've also got a NEG wire running to the radiator support also. (Grounding everything on these rigs, six-ways-to-Sunday is VERY important) You should also have a grounding strap running from the intake manifold (About where the stock coil mount is) to the firewall.
Positive cable should be to the sarter relay (May be other connections to it) with another cable right down to the starter. The other wires of which you speak of ... Dunno... Can you post a pic?
You should have the NEG cable bolted to the engine block. Usually in front of the driver-side head. I've also got a NEG wire running to the radiator support also. (Grounding everything on these rigs, six-ways-to-Sunday is VERY important) You should also have a grounding strap running from the intake manifold (About where the stock coil mount is) to the firewall.
Positive cable should be to the sarter relay (May be other connections to it) with another cable right down to the starter. The other wires of which you speak of ... Dunno... Can you post a pic?
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Dolfans,
All of the Mopars with which I am familiar used one heavy negative battery cable bolted to the engine block or cylinder head and a smaller negative cable which ran from the battery terminal to the left front fender. You can buy a new cable with those characteristics at just about any auto parts store.
Extreme cold will indeed kill a battery -- and yeah-boy, it has been cold here in NC lately! The battery in our Jeep (date code 5/05) died due to the cold and due to the fact that it is started frequently and used for short trips, with no chance for the battery to fully recover. I put a full charge on it at least twice over the past year, but it finally just gave up altogether. If this sounds familiar, the problem might indeed be your three-year-old battery.
Jeff
All of the Mopars with which I am familiar used one heavy negative battery cable bolted to the engine block or cylinder head and a smaller negative cable which ran from the battery terminal to the left front fender. You can buy a new cable with those characteristics at just about any auto parts store.
Extreme cold will indeed kill a battery -- and yeah-boy, it has been cold here in NC lately! The battery in our Jeep (date code 5/05) died due to the cold and due to the fact that it is started frequently and used for short trips, with no chance for the battery to fully recover. I put a full charge on it at least twice over the past year, but it finally just gave up altogether. If this sounds familiar, the problem might indeed be your three-year-old battery.
Jeff
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Why don'cha come up to Maine for a week, fellas? -30 in the St. John Valley the other week ("only" dropped to -14 here on the coast that morning). After that, your cold snaps in North Carolina will feel like Houston in August.
Dolfans, you definitely should go ahead and replace those battery cables, and I'd also replace the cables running from the starter relay to the starter. You might need a new battery, or not, but either way you'll want solid cables with clean, tight connections--will save yourself all kinds of potential headaches, not only with starting the truck but with the charging system, too.
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. . . and, the Good Lord willing, we'll never have the opportunity to find out!
Brrr!
Jeff
today i just looked at the wires better.on the neg wire it has the big black wire that goes to the smog stuff,and a smaller wire that goes to the radiator support brace above the horn.other words 2 wires are grounded at this spot with a wire nut (cant think of the name right now).that wire has the protective cover missing for a inch or so.can i use black tape for this.the pos wire goes to the starter and a black wire the same size at first then gets smaller from a wire plug.this goes to the big wire bundle that goes on side and front of the frame.i also have a wire that is from the same bundle that goes straight to the bolt on the pos post and it also has a wire plug.so the neg post has 2 wires and the pos post has 3 wires is this correct with the factory thanks.
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Can you take a couple photos? That would help us out a lot in advising you.
Can you get hold of a wiring diagram? You can buy a Factory Service manual on CD for about $50 (invaluable resource if you plan to work on the truck), or a Haynes or Chiltons for about $20 (?). If you're really strapped, go to your local library and photocopy the wiring diagram there.
You really need a wiring diagram to refer to if you're going to do any electrical work on your truck.
Can you get hold of a wiring diagram? You can buy a Factory Service manual on CD for about $50 (invaluable resource if you plan to work on the truck), or a Haynes or Chiltons for about $20 (?). If you're really strapped, go to your local library and photocopy the wiring diagram there.
You really need a wiring diagram to refer to if you're going to do any electrical work on your truck.
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