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Discussion Starter #1
I am cross-referencing this to the link I started in the PW sub-forum because I am getting no responses there. Here is the original thread/post:
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=530009

Bottom line - I have been using a pneumatic grease gun to lube the front drive shaft on my '12 PW. I usually shoot the grease in there until I see it start to come out the other side to ensure it's fully greased.

However, it occurred to me while reading up on Carli's ball joint greasing recommendations (not to over-grease because the seals could be damaged), that using the pneumatic grease gun could be killing my drive shaft by over-greasing or forcing the grease in there too much.

Any educated answers to this concern would be very much appreciated.
 

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Are you talking about the ball joints vs U joints?


U-Joints in the front axle.. I've been doing this for years and number of trucks with no issues..

One of the most common causes of driveshaft and U-joint failure is the lack of adequate or proper lubrication. The following lubrication procedures are recommended to prevent premature failure of parts. These procedures also ensure that U-joints are flushed of dirt, salt and other contaminants and the bearing cavities are filled with new lubricant. Always follow OEM lubrication schedule recommendations.

U-joints
◾Apply the recommended grease at the grease fitting on the U-joint until the new grease purges from all of the journal cross bearing seals.
◾Do not assume that bearing cavities have been filled with the new lubricant unless flow can be seen around all four bearing seals. If new grease does not purge at all four seals, loosen the bearing cap bolts and regrease until all four cups purge.
◾If new grease still does not purge, replace the U-joint.
◾If a different grease is being used, make sure it is compatible with the old grease and apply extra grease to purge out the old grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info. I am actually talking about the mystical grease fitting on the front drive shaft at the end that connects to the transfer case. Honestly, with all the threads I have read and with the information you supplied (not directly related, but certainly relevant), I think I am just being overly worried about a problem I came up with in my head.

I read the instructions on the Carli site about proper greasing for their ball joints, and they warn not to force grease in, as it could damage the seals. This could very well be specific to their design, and after all, this is a drive shaft pivot point vs ball joints, sort of apples and oranges.

In any case, I think I have my concern addressed, at least in my own mind. thanks again
 

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RideLong said:
I am actually talking about the mystical grease fitting on the front drive shaft at the end that connects to the transfer case.
DK your truck or setup: but if it's "double cardan type CV joint" at front of t-case, the mystical (is it "flush fitting" or a zirc/nipple?) fitting is most likely for the "centering ball" inside the "link yoke"; best to grease it first (before grease from the 8 u-joint seals makes it hard to see centering ball and it's seal properly).
... Good to give it grease till some escapes seal; then rotate dr shaft couple turns, then grease till some escapes again.

... Best to grease it faithfully: if neglected and plugs up/rusts, can be a PITA to grease, and/or gets pricey to fix!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's flush fitting (need to use a needle point on the grease gun) and my understanding is that it's definitely for the centering ball. I grease it often. Thanks for the info. Like I said, I think what I am doing is fine, as many others seem to be doing it the same way: Throw grease in there until you see nice clean grease coming out the other end.

One thing I have not been doing is rotating the shaft after initial greasing and then following up. That is pretty thorough and I like it. Thanks
 

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It's flush fitting (need to use a needle point on the grease gun) and my understanding is that it's definitely for the centering ball. I grease it often. Thanks for the info. Like I said, I think what I am doing is fine, as many others seem to be doing it the same way: Throw grease in there until you see nice clean grease coming out the other end.

One thing I have not been doing is rotating the shaft after initial greasing and then following up. That is pretty thorough and I like it. Thanks
This is pretty much what I've been doing for a while. I do it every oil change. Normally, takes 2-3 pumps and it's coming out.

You're fine! :)
 

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It's flush fitting (need to use a needle point on the grease gun) and my understanding is that it's definitely for the centering ball. I grease it often. Thanks for the info. Like I said, I think what I am doing is fine, as many others seem to be doing it the same way: Throw grease in there until you see nice clean grease coming out the other end.

One thing I have not been doing is rotating the shaft after initial greasing and then following up. That is pretty thorough and I like it. Thanks
"Frequent" is good! ... Lightly used, or sitting vehicles are a recipe for plugged/rusty; then centering balls/flush fittings basically "refuse" to take grease: "rebuild", or cut/weld/machine/balance dr shaft and rebuild "can/will" be the consequence!! ... Remember this with "extended service intervals" nowadays; frequent=good!
("basic" link yoke rebuild is cen-ball kit, both new u-joints and more patience than I have)

... IMO air is just fine: hel_, I'd use camel steam or nuke power if that's what it took to grease c-ball!

... Just wipe flush-fit clean (no wash or solvents; unless, arrrgh, the darn thing is plugged) and AVOID pushing debri past the tiny flush-fit ball; always leave a smudge of grease on flush-fit to protect it when your done.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
"Frequent" is good! ... Lightly used, or sitting vehicles are a recipe for plugged/rusty; then centering balls/flush fittings basically "refuse" to take grease: "rebuild", or cut/weld/machine/balance dr shaft and rebuild "can/will" be the consequence!! ... Remember this with "extended service intervals" nowadays; frequent=good!
("basic" link yoke rebuild is cen-ball kit, both new u-joints and more patience than I have)

... IMO air is just fine: hel_, I'd use camel steam or nuke power if that's what it took to grease c-ball!

... Just wipe flush-fit clean (no wash or solvents; unless, arrrgh, the darn thing is plugged) and AVOID pushing debri past the tiny flush-fit ball; always leave a smudge of grease on flush-fit to protect it when your done.
Thanks for the info/advice. I have gone back and forth on the smudge of grease on the fitting deal - would it protect the fitting well or just attract and bunch of crud? I could see it (and have heard arguments for) both ways.
 

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RideLong said:
I have gone back and forth on the smudge of grease on the fitting deal - would it protect the fitting well or just attract and bunch of crud? I could see it (and have heard arguments for) both ways.
Dust/crud collects on outside/exterior of smudge; underneath the "tiny little ball" and entrance is kept clean, and they and passage are protected from RUSTING as long as possible (till heat/speed throw it off, or mud etc rub it off); if little ball rusts and wont seat properly, then water gets in, then inside rusts and plugs, thennnnn, just a matter of time.

... Not advocating fire hazards: but old greasy/cruddy motors/gearboxes etc always seem to have well preserved paint etc underneath the crud, unlike their "prim n proper" well washed younger cousins.

... But it's a free country, and smudge may cause "sleep loss" for some folks; the rest of us are better off with a smudge.
... I might be cheating though, still have a tube of sticky Red Ram 1 1/2 (with Paratac) for such jobs. ... Smudge gease that's a "bit" sticky is good, basic #2 lithium is ok too, and far far better than nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I hear ya, and will probably start doing that next time I grease it. How well does the grease stay on? I would assume as the shaft spins most of that grease will fly off?
 

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RideLong said:
How well does the grease stay on? I would assume as the shaft spins most of that grease will fly off?
DK squat about your truck: or if frt shaft spins all the time, or where fl-fitting is (the closer to shaft centerline, the better; inside link yoke is good), or your ambients.

... Its not a "be all, end all", but it helps; especially if shaft only turns in 4wd, and there's lots of moisture or salt involved.
... Sticky ish smudge for your ambient, and frequent, = good. ... Seldom greased, and left clean= bad.

... If you dare, as a test; AFTER chassis lube, wipe all zircs on driver side of truck "clean" so they're pretty, do this every time you lube; "odds being equal", dr side zircs will cause trouble first, rust-plug-refuse PITA (but at least they're easily/cheaply changed, unlike f-fit C-ball issues).
 

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Yeah good points. i will swipe it with grease next time and then just monitor how long it stays on there or how well. It's nothing to scoot under and look. This thing's a power wagon, and I have not put manual hubs on it, so the shaft is spinning all the time.

Thanks for your insights. :)
 

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RideLong said:
will swipe it with grease next time and then just monitor how long it stays on there or how well. It's nothing to scoot under and look. This thing's a power wagon, and I have not put manual hubs on it, so the shaft is spinning all the time.
Ya, if you can do sticky/tacky smudge would be good: BEFORE lubing, be sure to wipe it away so grease/tacky and dirt does not go past f-fit ball.
... It's good your gonna look, then you'll know; good luck!
 
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