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Ok, I just completed this modification, now the truck wont start. Its a 78 W200 with 400 BB. I have traced out all the wires and I get voltage all the way to the distributor. The engine turns over, but as far as i can tell there is no voltage at the plugs. I ran a ground wire to the distributor as well. How much voltage should i be getting at the cap from the coil? Its a new cap, rotor and the distributor looks fine. Anyone have any ideas?
 

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Harvey..... come on Man... WTF

Well, from what I have read and observed on here, most of you have absolutely no idea what it means to be a Mopar man. I shall be taking my leave and you can all kiss my ass!
Fella... thats a bit harsh, actually ...alot harsh and coarse to fellow Mopar owners. Shame on you. I'm about as purist as the next guy, but there comes a time when either your going to have a Really Nice Ornament in your garage or your going to have to figure a satisfactory replacement part that will survive the rigors that we all encounter day to day with our Mopars. I'm sure you now regret that comment. You have made it a bit too personal for comfort in this forum. I have non-OEM parts 'in' my self..............waaaaa? Yes, I have a non-stock St. Jude artifical heart valve ticking away in my chest. Ceramic & Titanium... You might think that it has nothing to do with this post/thread.... Well it's attatched to the nut behind the steering wheel....lol. Some here think now, that you are a grade A jerk, others who might know you probably think that you were having a 'not so good' day. Whatever the reason it's not important and will be overlooked by just about all of us. But for some, you can't un-say it. Remember that next time you throw barbs to others........ it will take a while to heal from the wounds. ..................................PEACE BRO.
 

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heh, yah, I love Mopar and all but that doesn't mean they're infallible. I have no problem admitting that other companies might have better parts! Especially when we're talking about a 17+ year old truck!
 

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87 318

Ok, I am kinda new to the world of Dodge trucks (Sorry, my Dad is a Chevy guy and that is how I was raised but be certain I got here as soon as I could)

I have an 87 D150 w/ 318 Is this lean Burn crap on my truck and if so does this step by step mod work on my truck? Would be more than willing to get a little more umph out of the girl but I don't want to mess anything up either.
 

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Just a thought, but, couldn't you just bypass the ballast resistor and get a hotter coil that will hold the full 12V?
 

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Long answer is? I'm assuming there is some extra parts necessary? I hope it won't fry anything, because I'm about to do the ignition in my 87 tomorrow, and I plan on doing this.
 

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I just got the parts you used by # and I'm ready to assemble.. Great write and understanding was excelent, easy to get on the same wavelength. A cool thing for me, was I had some clips from a Dryer that I had replaced mechenisms in. The male and female clips 7 in total were SS or awfull close to it making the mate for the small terminal and having much much more strength than auto parts store clip/terminals stuff.
I actually had a severely difficult time pulling a m&f terminal/blade apart after trial fitting stuff to componants
 

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In the process of converting the scc right now. Do I leave the existing wires on the coil and just add new ones as the diagram, or do I remove the existing ones (one of wich should be power in yes?) no ballist resist. so not worried bout that,


Swapped over, started right up. Timed it. Appears to be running good. drove it around for a half hour or so. I left the connections on the coil in place, just added the new ones as per the diagram. Thanks for the write up. Happy to know that the piece of shit computer is no longer in charge.
 

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I've done this conversion a couple of years ago on my '72 'cuda and on my '72 Mustang. It is MUCH better than the stock Mopar ECU.

On the 'cuda I hid the module in the back of a gutted Mopar ECU box backed up to the stock heat sink. I wired it internally to the standard socket so the loom plugs in as normal and the wiring all looks stock.

I used a Wells C839 coil which I can recommend as an excellent low price E-core coil for this application.
 

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Yeah its gota slant six\6
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Im planning on converting to HEI on my slant6 when i have the money except the setup i plan on doing is a little different.
 

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I aquired a 83 d 150 that already had the carb replaced with a early bbd from a 318 and still had the lean burn.The euc connector is almost impossable to find today and the retaining screw IS impossible to find.My fix- a GM HEI conversion to a 74 Mopar electronic distributor. (slant 6 here).Mounted the module to a GM 3.4 dis module/coil bracket just in front of the washer bottle-gutted a Ford eec 2 box to cover it-mounted a chevette coil to the cover and a relay for power off of the alternator using the existing coil power wire.Runs like a charm with about 75kv avaible.The thing to doing this beside heat sinking the module is to make sure the air gap in the dist is .007 so you can get the 350mv a/c cranking to fire the module.Then the polarity of the wires to the distributor does make a differeance.Either it runs good or it runs bad.For under $40 bucks it works great and keeps the plugs from fouling.
 

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GM HEI Conversion

I aquired a 83 d 150 that already had the carb replaced with a early bbd from a 318 and still had the lean burn.The euc connector is almost impossable to find today and the retaining screw IS impossible to find.My fix- a GM HEI conversion to a 74 Mopar electronic distributor. (slant 6 here).Mounted the module to a GM 3.4 dis module/coil bracket just in front of the washer bottle-gutted a Ford eec 2 box to cover it-mounted a chevette coil to the cover and a relay for power off of the alternator using the existing coil power wire.Runs like a charm with about 75kv avaible.The thing to doing this beside heat sinking the module is to make sure the air gap in the dist is .007 so you can get the 350mv a/c cranking to fire the module.Then the polarity of the wires to the distributor does make a differeance.Either it runs good or it runs bad.For under $40 bucks it works great and keeps the plugs from fouling.
 

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After reading about this HEI conversion a while ago, I was very enthusiastic to learn as much as I could about it. So, during my many information digs on the internet, I learned a lot more that can be done with the HEI module.

For instance, if you use certain 5-pin HEI modules, it can be wired up so that when starting the engine, the module will retard ignition 10-degrees so that the engine will start easier. A real bonus for higher compression engines that are hard to crank over, but will help any engine.
 

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I guess I should have listed the HEI module part numbers for the modules I was referring to that can retard startup timing. They are:
Niehoff: DR406
Borg/Warner: CBE22
GP Sorensen: EL119
 

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I'll post a link to the threads as soon as I post this thread and get my minimum five post quota.
 
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