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Discussion Starter #1
been ordering parts for the last month or so now just to find the time to install it all...

slams re7 and he7's all the way around
8 blitzlift blackjacks
under/behind the axle setup from suicide doors
smc fittings
rebuilt everything upfront


ordering a 20 gallon fuel cell and mounting it behind the axle after i have it converted to run the stock pump

sorry for the useless thread without pics but it sucks having all these parts here and not bein able to have time to install :mad: round 2 next year will be moving the links inside the frame rails,shortening the rearend, tubbing it out and some custom billets
 

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make sure your depth on the tank is right, it needs to be about 12" deep w/ a .250" spacer and some tinkering on the pump.

I know now that if i had to do it again i would have got my wheels first then built around them. I also know that i would have rear clipped the frame with bars inside the frame and a true cantilever not a lever setup. i also would have a wishbone upper link and whatnot.


i say hold off on installing all those parts and get your wheels first
then shorten the axle to size. then weld in your 4 link, then notch
that way everything will fit perfect.
 

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if my truck was'nt already bagged by the previous owner and having problems rear bags mounted incorrect, leaking fittings, electrical i don't trust. i'd gladly hold off so its either install my new parts or get all the parts to turn it back to static and drive it around like that for the next year or two while i amass parts

if this was a perfect situation i'd deffinatly gone in that order...

thanks for the tip on the fuel cell i would've been screwed if i had already ordered the 20 gallon i was going to get
 

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i would say that the aftermarket fuel pump and sender may cost more but if you ever need more fuel in the future it will be better to have. plus it looks way cleaner then mine does with the pump on top
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
can i get the stock guage to function using they're sender? i'll still have to switch back out every 2 years because of smog bullshit might change my address to a buddys house the next county over and register it there with no smog but we'll see...

prolly won't put too much power into this thing i've got a 71 challenger with a built 400bb for that...
 

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Big Joe SS/T said:
I also know that i would have rear clipped the frame with bars inside the frame and a true cantilever not a lever setup. i also would have a wishbone upper link and whatnot.
Can I ask why you'd like the links on the inside of the framerails? To the best of my understanding, the farther out on the axles the links are, the better ride is. That's why like the new F150s have everything mounted to far outboard.

I def like the Wishbone idea for the upper link. And Catilever setups are awesome, but damn, that single spot has ALOT of load on it
 

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as far as the links inside the framerails would be so i could throw a set of wide rims and tires in there... prostreet/drag cars have ran with links inside the framerails forever with no problems its a bagged truck i could give a shit less about how it handles in the turns. ride quality is dependent on the person i went from a 12in lifted k5 with 15x15 wheels and 33x15.50 swampers so to me even with no shocks and swaybar up front it rides like a caddy...

mulling over the idea of building a 426 stroker or just pumping up the 318 alil... because in all reality i do not NEED a fast car & truck.
 

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MeanThree18 said:
Can I ask why you'd like the links on the inside of the framerails? To the best of my understanding, the farther out on the axles the links are, the better ride is. That's why like the new F150s have everything mounted to far outboard.

I def like the Wishbone idea for the upper link. And Catilever setups are awesome, but damn, that single spot has ALOT of load on it

you can get a wider tire in there with stuff inboard plus it hides it out of sight. Yes with either a true canti setup or with a lever sup the load is focused on a single point but the back of the truck and bed dont weight too much so its not that bad plus most people use some heavy ass 2x2x.25" box tubing which is bullet proof and probably way overbuilt.
 

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Both excellent points (This is why I asked!)

Thank you both very much.

As for the motor ideas. I'd just beef up the 5.2. Unless you wanna go really fast, you can make a 5.2 into a fun motor, just not a prostreet truck
 
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