DodgeTalk Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
41 - 50 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
-I have read that about the powertrax, so that was out of the picture right off, good advice. I was looking at the detroit true trac posi, or the detroit locker. Only 100 bucks difference but this is my daily driver too so.. ARB is nice but really expensive. -and the auburns wear out..

Ditch, you dont think the trac-lok is rebuilable at this point? Definitely have 2 discs missing, as you can see from the picture.. and the two clutch clips are not in there.. so this might be bad news..

-I need to do something quick tho becase the other half of those pieces are probably ready to fall out -especially since there are no clutch clips in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
Ok..well whats my best option at this point, buy the rebuild kit (clutch kit) for my trac-lok, buy a new trac-lok ($270) or pony up for a detroit true trac posi ($489) I dont think It would be smart to leave this like this forever...
cant use the detroit true-trac with 35s unfortunately (unless you want to totally disregard mfg's recommendation), so a locker might be solution. Eaton recommends no more than 32" for truetrac.

the tradeoff between ease of use of air (or Ox) locker compared to its price, im going to be way less annoyed with being able to manually lock/unlock than one that's going to lock up on me for heavily accelerating at a left turn signal (basically locking the wheels pushing me straight forward when im trying to turn).. understeer, tire wear.... I would probably get too annoyed at a non air/ox locker and wind up replacing it

fortunately i have no plans on running big tires so true-trac is how im going once im ready for the rebuild on down the road
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
Also, for my write up.. do you want it in document form or in here -like in a thread? it would be a lot easier if it was in a document and you could just copy the file.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
create a new thread and link the thread here. that way your words will be searchable by some guy in 2 years that needs to do the same thing.
 

·
Bridal Veil Falls
Joined
·
3,229 Posts
Make sure you post it in the how to section...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
-

Ditch, you dont think the trac-lok is rebuilable at this point? Definitely have 2 discs missing, as you can see from the picture.. and the two clutch clips are not in there.. so this might be bad news..

-I need to do something quick tho becase the other half of those pieces are probably ready to fall out -especially since there are no clutch clips in there.
Pretty much have to get it apart and see what kind of shape the carrier is in. If the casting is all beat up, it's junk, but if the retainers (half-cylinder shaped pieces) still fit reasonably tight and flush, you might get away with it. Depends on how long ago they walked out of the grooves.

Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
984 Posts
cant use the detroit true-trac with 35s unfortunately (unless you want to totally disregard mfg's recommendation), so a locker might be solution. Eaton recommends no more than 32" for truetrac.

the tradeoff between ease of use of air (or Ox) locker compared to its price, im going to be way less annoyed with being able to manually lock/unlock than one that's going to lock up on me for heavily accelerating at a left turn signal (basically locking the wheels pushing me straight forward when im trying to turn).. understeer, tire wear.... I would probably get too annoyed at a non air/ox locker and wind up replacing it

fortunately i have no plans on running big tires so true-trac is how im going once im ready for the rebuild on down the road
I've never seen where a detroit wouldnt hold up to 35's? They are used in ALOT of drag cars. The one I have in my 96 drove perfectly fine on the street, it does not "push you straight forward" even on wet pavement. It ratchets the outer wheel in a turn I'll give you that, so yes you are only pushing with the inside wheel, and makes it easier to squeel a little or chirp, but you just learn to adjust your driving a bit.

Mine, while not being totally "seamless" was barely noticeable to my wife when she drove the truck VS the 2000 which has the Auburn LSD. Only thing she noticed is the tire chirp when turning a sharp corner from a stop sign, and you feel a bit of slack between coast and drive. She said otherwise it was totally normal for her. And if the wife can handle it, Im sure a hot rod guy could.

If someone is THAT concerned about it I'd go with an Eaton E-Locker or ARB Air-Locker. Kinda best of both worlds, open diff around town, Detroit type locker when you wanna race or offroad. That is if the VERY mild habits of the Detroit are more than you can handle, but your pocket book is about double deep.

Plus I had driven my truck for about 3 years in every condition here in N. Texas you can imagine, snow, sleet, solid ice, rain, etc. Never had a moment's trouble with it, the horror stories are TOTAL exxageration. In fact I felt like I had more control because I could "drift" the back end easier if need be to reorient myself on the ice sheet covered roads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
i think you think im confusing a detroit locker with a detroit truetrac

detroit locker fine for 35s, detroit truetrac isnt... max recommended is 32"

detroit truetrac: smooth operation. quiet. not 100% posit - its limited slip, acts like an open diff most of the time. most would not notice an upgrade over stock other than extra traction over open carrier. if you get 1 wheel off the ground, you'll need to give it gas + brake/ebrake to get it to put traction to the tire on the ground.

detroit locker: locks up and you get 100% posi action. if you're offroad, one wheel off the ground, the other wheel is still going to have power and you don't have to do anything to get that posi action going. you'll can feel the locker unlocking/locking by it clunking/clicking (when turning). when taking a sharp turn (like in a parking lot or making a left/right turn from dead stop), you need to let off the gas a little or the locker (while locked) will keep pushing you straight forward a bit causing understeer. so... turning on acceleration, 100% posi, feel some understeer, then the diff unlocks, then you get a bit of oversteer.... manageable and you will get used to it.

i think wheelbase, tire size, auto/manual tranny all make a difference in whether the locker feels milder or harsher when daily driving. i think this is why some people say a locker is fine on the street and others are annoyed at it. but the fact that a detroit locker *can* unlock makes it superior to a spool when turning.

if you're non-offroading wife drove your truck to pick up groceries, she would be more likely to ask what the hell is wrong with your truck when turning with the locker.

if you were a rock crawler, you might think the truetrac is junk and put in a locker

rock crawling - locker = more win
street or mud - truetrac = more win
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Ok so I rebuilt my trac lok last night. Let me tell you... if you are not a patient person, do not attempt this -especially do not attempt doing it still in the rear end.

Dont get me wrong, its not impossible to rebuild in the rear end, because I did, and its not that "hard" its just time consuming, and tedious -and youll have to fabricate a "tool" to help compress the new clutches to get the spider gear/thrust washers back in. -dont be scared by the word tool, its just a bolt cut off to the right length. Its a freggin bitch to get back together with new springs.

And on re-gearing. There are two threads that will tell you everything you need to know about rebuilding a rear end, so I dont know if it would be worth it for me to write a new one.. unless we want one actually dedicated to this site... but anyway, here are the links.

http://ramchargercentral.com/index.php?action=articles;sa=view;article=89 -rebuilding the 9.25 (thanks Ditchram!:cheers:)

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=276136 -rebuilding the trac-lok and remeshing your gears.

I would suggest if you are going to do your own gears, read both these very carefully first, and have it available during your rebuild.

:teacher: My comments:

Doing it yourself isnt hard, just set aside enough time.

You dont need anything "special" tool wise other than a micrometer and two torque wrenches (a low in/lb, and high ft/lb).

The special tool to spin the spaner nuts (to adjust the ring gear position) can be replaced with a screwdriver. Access to the adjusters is available through access holes on the housing.

I would recommend buying the install kit. You may not need everything out of it. At a minimum you will need the new crush seal, new oil seal, and new pinion bearings. You may find the other bearings are fine and dont need replaced. Mine didnt need it-but its a good thing to replace anyway... and you'll need shims for the pinion. i dont think youll save too much money if you buy the individual parts but thats for you to decide.

If you are running oversized tires, probably plan on rebuilding or replacing your Trac-lok at the same time. They are much easier to rebuild out of the rear end... The rebuild kit is only 70 bucks...

and have some beer available...hopefully I didnt miss anything..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
oh, one more thing. I havent done the dana yet... There is substantially less on rebuilding that around, tho im told its pretty much the same, just has shims instead of those adjustment nuts. Ill def do a write up on it tho. There needs to be one. i should get that done over thanksgiving. :)
 
41 - 50 of 50 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top