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Discussion Starter #1
All of my gauge lighting isn’t working is there a bulb location I can access without removing the entire cluster ?
 

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Probably the voltage limiter on the back of the cluster died. Buy this top quality one. RTE limiter - rte

The ones from parts stores typically aren't reliable aka cheap garbage!
Brian

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You'll want to buy the IRV4 for your truck.
If you have some old gauges cluster or buddies with some it's worth robbing one from them to test to see if that resolves the problem. Also due diligence requires checking that their isn't a short somewhere that could have caused the issue. Ammeter is the first culprit and it's wiring through the fuse block. Check there for burnt wires etc. Always good to use some cleaner to give corrosion and pack is full of dielectric grease.
BK

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Discussion Starter #4
You'll want to buy the IRV4 for your truck.
If you have some old gauges cluster or buddies with some it's worth robbing one from them to test to see if that resolves the problem. Also due diligence requires checking that their isn't a short somewhere that could have caused the issue. Ammeter is the first culprit and it's wiring through the fuse block. Check there for burnt wires etc. Always good to use some cleaner to give corrosion and pack is full of dielectric grease.
BK

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I had to bypass the ammeter last year I was getting no power to the cab, the contacts collapsed so I spliced the wires together . But the Napa version of that ir4 I tried wasn’t able to get the fuel gauge to work , only one currently operating is the speed and even that floats all over the place after 40 mph lol
 

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So the speedo is all mechanical. The cable can be lubed as well as the back of speedo which may help smooth out the bounces. Sometimes the speedo is worn out. The other guages are electrical and get power from the copper grid on the back which sometimes goes bad. There is a trick to restore the copper grid thing but I can't remember what it is. If you can try some other voltage limiter before buying the good one I exhaust that possiblity just to make sure. I've never had success with parts store replacements.
This vid may help you to do some diagnosis of each guage. For the life of my I can remember the trick for the circuit board. I found this video of a guy doing circuit board repair, same exact concept.
Brian


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This is super cool. Your repairing what's called a trace. This is what every Mopar guys in his tool kit for the instrument cluster printed circuit boards. They have a whole line if pens for various aspect of the job. Their cleaner pen might be good enough to get any corrosion off so you'll have good clean pathways.


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Discussion Starter #7
So the speedo is all mechanical. The cable can be lubed as well as the back of speedo which may help smooth out the bounces. Sometimes the speedo is worn out. The other guages are electrical and get power from the copper grid on the back which sometimes goes bad. There is a trick to restore the copper grid thing but I can't remember what it is. If you can try some other voltage limiter before buying the good one I exhaust that possiblity just to make sure. I've never had success with parts store replacements.
This vid may help you to do some diagnosis of each guage. For the life of my I can remember the trick for the circuit board. I found this video of a guy doing circuit board repair, same exact concept.
Brian


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Over the past few days I’ve scanned through articles and videos on repairing gauges with copper traces, in one video the guy was cleaning them with electronics cleaner and a pencil eraser. Does that ring any bells?
 

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I think what it was was soldering strips of wire to bridge the damaged areas of the circuit board. The circuit repair pen is amazing and I think it would be perfect on our guages.
Brian

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Discussion Starter #9
I think what it was was soldering strips of wire to bridge the damaged areas of the circuit board. The circuit repair pen is amazing and I think it would be perfect on our guages.
Brian

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Cleaned up all the traces and went over them with conductive ink pen , new limiter , installed, bulbs too. I found a resistor or capacitor that goes somewhere not fully sure this is what I got so far
628836
 

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Awesome! Let me know when you get it hooked up and if it works ok.
Brian

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I wouldn't trust one of those pens as far as I could spit it. Broken traces should be bridged with wire and solder flowed over the whole area of copper. This is how we fix antique radios, it's how any old circuit board should be fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I didn’t find any breaks in the copper traces or anything obvious, beginning to think there might be a bad ground . The diagram in the chilton manual doesn’t provide much help
 

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I agree, the repair pen is a hack job. However, the runs are probably not a problem. If you suspect that it is just get a multimeter and Ohms check the runs. You may be on the right track with the grounds. Our trucks rely on a small ground wire from the negative post of the battery to the radiator support. Try running a ground from the block to the frame and see what that does. The 5V regulator is a common fail, but to be honest I have had the same old one that came in the truck since 1976 and it works fine. Another source of your problem may be the grey pin connector. I don’t have a schematic at hand at the moment, but one wire in that connector supplies voltage to the gauge cluster. I have a problem with mine and I just reach behind The dash wiggle it, and all my gauges come back to life.
 
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