[JcRiggleman]

1. ... Not different. ... Was it leaking? (although it may be impossible to tell if engine oil was leaking from above it)
... See 2 below

2. ... Screen "appears" ok, so poor oil press issue is likely either pump or main and/or rod bearings (and/or crank); or slim possibility of something else.
... Inspect the old pump: remove the 5 cover bolts and check internals and housing for damage/scoring etc; knock out the roll pin? and check for stuck relief valve, and/or broken spring.
... Even if pump is bad; imo brgs should be at least checked (looked at). NOTE: if/when removing any brg caps, if they are not numbered or marked, they must be stamped or punch marked so they will be reinstalled in exactly the same position and orientation.... Keep everything in order of removal, do not mix up old parts/positions/orientations.
... If rear main cap (#5) is removed its a good time to change rear main seal.
... Main caps are/should be numbered 1 2 3 4 5 (front-rear).
... Strongly strongly suggest getting/download FSM, or Haynes or Chilton, or other Magnum rebuild book etc.

3. ... At this stage new pump is good idea.

4. ... Do not at all assume pump was seemingly good, and/or brgs either (cannot even assume the new oil press sender was good!!; I hope the earlier suggested oil press test with "reliable/accurate" mech gauge is making more sense now).
... Without compression test, hope all 8 cyls are good too (were blowby pulses ok/equal ish?)
... There's high volume, and/or high pressure pumps (IDK about high mileage pump, if that's what was said).

Yeh!, glad your having a blast; but even for seasoned mech, this is getting into deep and important territory, need to closely PAY ATTN!!!, one mistake anywhere here in the bottom end can destroy the whole motor; need to plan steps before doing anything or taking anything apart (others here have first hand advice with these Magnum bottom ends).
... Pay attn when breaking loose main bolts or rod nuts; anything looser than it should be is an indication of problems, and should be noted!! ... Good luck.

Okay defiantly seeing transmission fluid on the bottom of the pan however not leaking out the bell housing. Sooo thinking it may be a transmission pan gasket leak. Either way may have a transmission special look at that and redo all seals. Little out of my league and know how.

That being said I will retest my blowby when I get the truck back together. I believe all pulses were the same ish minus maybe one. (1) is it true the 8th has problems?

Really quickly when I dropped the crankshaft to change the seal the bolts sort of had a funny smell. Almost burnt. (2) is this a big deal or normal? I believe oil pump smelled this way too.

Changing rear seal while I'm at it because there was oil at the bottom of the transmission bell housing. (3) Read somewhere this is an indicator of a rear seal leak?

(4) what does brgs stand for? When speaking of oil pump.

Crankshaft bolts were noted in orientation and location. Will put back in at 85 lbs per foot. Any other last minute tips?

Thanks again!!!!
-JC

 

[key99]

Okay defiantly seeing transmission fluid on the bottom of the pan however not leaking out the bell housing. Sooo thinking it may be a transmission pan gasket leak.

That being said I will retest my blowby when I get the truck back together. I believe all pulses were the same ish minus maybe one. (1) is it true the 8th has problems?

Really quickly when I dropped the crankshaft to change the seal the bolts sort of had a funny smell. Almost burnt. (2) is this a big deal or normal? I believe oil pump smelled this way too.

Changing rear seal while I'm at it because there was oil at the bottom of the transmission bell housing. (3) Read somewhere this is an indicator of a rear seal leak?

(4) what does brgs stand for? When speaking of oil pump.

Crankshaft bolts were noted in orientation and location. Will put back in at 85 lbs per foot. Any other last minute tips? Thanks again!!!-JC

Yeeeh, not leaking out of bell!!
1. ... Leaking plenum sometimes/can harm cyl 8; "crossfire induced detonation" harms/DESTROYS cyl 7 and maybe the whole motor; but any cyl can cause issues. ... First link is for crossfire TSB (pay extra attn to 5 and 7, and coil wire; and Jaspers info (issue is even more serious than they say!!)

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98-v8.ht

http://www.jasperengines.com/pdf/SparkPlugCross-FireTB.pdf

2. ... No clue.
3. ... Unless leak originates above and runs down.
4. ... brgs = bearings; not referring to the pump.

... Mention year, engine, again; the proper 360 pan gasket can be a bit of an issue; Moparite/others know what's best, and install procedure (RTV in corners by cap/block too).

... Would check; darn sure you should put a drop of anerobic sealer on each side of main cap mating surface (outboard of oil seal ends).
...Main caps 1-4, and rod caps must always be reinstalled the exact same orientation as removed (stamp, punch, number one side if you need to).


...Inspect brgs like a hawk: all you can assume now is the serious pressure loss was likely caused by brgs/crank/rods; or the pump (what did pump internals/relief look like????).

 

[JcRiggleman]

Yeeeh, not leaking out of bell!!
1. ... Leaking plenum sometimes/can harm cyl 8; "crossfire induced detonation" harms/DESTROYS cyl 7 and maybe the whole motor; but any cyl can cause issues. ... First link is for crossfire TSB (pay extra attn to 5 and 7, and coil wire; and Jaspers info (issue is even more serious than they say!!)

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98-v8.ht

http://www.jasperengines.com/pdf/SparkPlugCross-FireTB.pdf

2. ... No clue.
3. ... Unless leak originates above and runs down.
4. ... brgs = bearings; not referring to the pump.

... Mention year, engine, again; the proper 360 pan gasket can be a bit of an issue; Moparite/others know what's best, and install procedure (RTV in corners by cap/block too).

... Would check; darn sure you should put a drop of anerobic sealer on each side of main cap mating surface (outboard of oil seal ends).
...Main caps 1-4, and rod caps must always be reinstalled the exact same orientation as removed (stamp, punch, number one side if you need to).


...Inspect brgs like a hawk: all you can assume now is the serious pressure loss was likely caused by brgs/crank/rods; or the pump (what did pump internals/relief look like????).

01 Dodge Ram 1500. 5.9l 4x4


can you go into detail on caps and bearings. Not sure where those are located or what your speaking of. Thinking caps are the things 1-5 and I just changed the fifth cap seal. (1) Aka crank shaft?!? (2) what does anaerobic sealer do?
-JC

 

[spun360]

anaerobic sealer "dries in the absence or air"

 

[Moparite]

What do the rest of the crank and rod bearings look like(lowers on the crank uppers on the rods)? Looks like the one in the pic is a bit worn. Here are ones from a motor with are around 180K. As you can see the rods where in a lot worse shape(you shouldn't see copper). Since you took the crank out it would make sense to replace them both.

Since you took the crank out it would make sense to replace them both.

 

[JcRiggleman]

What do the rest of the crank and rod bearings look like(lowers on the crank uppers on the rods)? Looks like the one in the pic is a bit worn. Here are ones from a motor with are around 180K. As you can see the rods where in a lot worse shape(you shouldn't see copper). Since you took the crank out it would make sense to replace them both.

Since you took the crank out it would make sense to replace them both.

I didn't take the crank shaft off I don't believe. I only removed the last crank to replace the upper and lower rear seal. The crank shaft is still in. So the rods are the long parts holding the Pistons? and the bearings are the circular parts that I took off.. Correct?(1) When inspecting them what am I looking for? (2)Discoloration, cracks? Also heard I need the bearings absolutely dirt free when putting them back in. Right? (3)

-JC

 

[key99]

anaerobic sealer "dries in the absence or air"

01 Dodge Ram 1500. 5.9l 4x4

can you go into detail on caps and bearings. Not sure where those are located or what your speaking of. Thinking caps are the things 1-5 and I just changed the fifth cap seal. (1) Aka crank shaft?!? (2) what does anaerobic sealer do?
-JC

Pic 41 shows #5 main cap (the cast part) and the silver colored "insert" is the lower half of #5 main brg (its mating upper half is in block web above crankshaft).
... Hard to tell from pic; but on second look, DK if the brown on brg is oily/dirty, but the silver "appears" very worn; wipe each brg clean and post pics, some sharp eyes here will chime in.

...Crank is very heavy, and can warp too; at the least, good to always have 2 and 4, or 1,3,5 caps in place to hold it up.
... Check crank journals (the surfaces brgs run on) for roughness; simple method is to drag fingernail across journal to see if nail catches (should be smooth).

... IDK what has been changed; "appears" lower half of old rear main seal is still in #5 main cap.


1. ... Main caps 1-5 perfectly squeeze the 2 halves of main brgs into the 5 webs in the block; brgs Inside Diameter (brgs ID) will/SHOULD be perfectly round, the crankshaft (aka crank) runs/turns inside the brgs.
... Proper clearance between crank and all main brgs is critical to maintain oil pressure, and rod brgs too---
---main #1 : .0005-.0015" (service limit is .0015")
---mains #2-5 : .0005-.002" (service limit is .0025")

---rods: .005-.0022" (service limit is .003")

... You can see how tight clearances are; again strongly suggesting a Magnum rebuild book, or FSM etc.

2. ... spun360 is right, "dries in the absence of air"; anerobic is for between 2 machined surfaces (they fit perfectly tight, no air in there so RTV may not cure properly).

 

[key99]

I didn't take the crank shaft off I don't believe. I only removed the last crank to replace the upper and lower rear seal.

The crank shaft is still in. So the rods are the long parts holding the Pistons? and the bearings are the circular parts that I took off.. Correct?(1) When inspecting them what am I looking for? (2)Discoloration, cracks? Also heard I need the bearings absolutely dirt free when putting them back in. Right? (3)

-JC

... Yup, "connecting rods" (aka rods) are the long parts holding pistons.
... Besides pickup and pump, seems like you've only removed #5 main cap (it contains lower brg half and lower seal half).

1, 2. ... BRG OD is made of strong ish steel, the ID is one or two soft inlays (layers): looking for---
---wear (can appear as discoloration)
---or wear into or thru the soft inlay/s
---imbedded dirt etc
---pitting, cracks, flaking
... And much more, pics are worth a thousand words; google, book etc is your friend.
... Anti freeze, and also acids from your fingers destroys brg inlay.

3. ... Brg inlay and crank journals must be clean for obvious reasons.
...Brg OD, and cap and web ID must also be CLEAN; or clearance may be reduced; and/or without tight/intimate contact, brg looses ability to transfer heat away to cap and web.

... Do not allow/cause bangs/nicks to machined or mating surfaces (anything that prevents cap/s from seating fully will not allow brg OD to be held/clamped tightly; spun brg can be the result (often motor is toast).

 

[JcRiggleman]

... Yup, "connecting rods" (aka rods) are the long parts holding pistons.
... Besides pickup and pump, seems like you've only removed #5 main cap (it contains lower brg half and lower seal half).

1, 2. ... BRG OD is made of strong ish steel, the ID is one or two soft inlays (layers): looking for---
---wear (can appear as discoloration)
---or wear into or thru the soft inlay/s
---imbedded dirt etc
---pitting, cracks, flaking
... And much more, pics are worth a thousand words; google, book etc is your friend.
... Anti freeze, and also acids from your fingers destroys brg inlay.

3. ... Brg inlay and crank journals must be clean for obvious reasons.
...Brg OD, and cap and web ID must also be CLEAN; or clearance may be reduced; and/or without tight/intimate contact, brg looses ability to transfer heat away to cap and web.

... Do not allow/cause bangs/nicks to machined or mating surfaces (anything that prevents cap/s from seating fully will not allow brg OD to be held/clamped tightly; spun brg can be the result (often motor is toast).

Just finished!
Woop woop!!!!!!! :rck:
Here we go. Beardings looked good. No gauges or cuts or anything noticeable. Rods look good from what I could tell. No cracks. Oil pump went in and oil pan went back up. Had about 60 in pressure when I first turned over the engine for about 5 mins. After it settle do around 40 and stayed there. Test drove it and the gauge didn't drop to zero once. Hovered around 38 when the engine warmed up. All in all happy about the pressure!!

(1) What should be my next project this weekend? Plenum gasket change? Valve cover gasket change. (Probably do those at the same time.) right hand valve cover looks like it has a leak. Darker looking wet spots on that side of the engine all the way down!

Or do my transmission pan gasket and insert a drain into transmission pan.

Eventually want to swap my pipes out and my rear end...

Looking forward to your advice!
-JC

 

[key99]

Just finished!
Woop woop!!!!!!! :rck:
Here we go. Beardings looked good. No gauges or cuts or anything noticeable. Rods look good from what I could tell. No cracks. Oil pump went in and oil pan went back up. Had about 60 in pressure when I first turned over the engine for about 5 mins. After it settle do around 40 and stayed there. Test drove it and the gauge didn't drop to zero once. Hovered around 38 when the engine warmed up. All in all happy about the pressure!!

(1) What should be my next project this weekend? Plenum gasket change? Valve cover gasket change. (Probably do those at the same time.) right hand valve cover looks like it has a leak. Darker looking wet spots on that side of the engine all the way down!

Or do my transmission pan gasket and insert a drain into transmission pan.

... Good to hear; do not put too much trust in stock gauge.

1. ... For now, would gently check/resnug valve cover bolts (I resnug them when engine is a bit warm so gasket is hopefully soft/pliable); would then wash oil mess off of engine (avoid high pressure wash on dizzy; and have clean rags/papertowel and WD40 with you in case dizzy/something gets wet).
... Do this and find all the leaks.
... Depending on condition of trans fluid; choices are gently resnug trans pan bolts (only do this when trans is cold or aluminum threads will strip), or remove pan and service trans (set bands, new filter and +4 fluid).
... Keep an eye on plenum for oil/pooling; or do plenum test.

 

[JcRiggleman]

... Good to hear; do not put too much trust in stock gauge.

1. ... For now, would gently check/resnug valve cover bolts (I resnug them when engine is a bit warm so gasket is hopefully soft/pliable); would then wash oil mess off of engine (avoid high pressure wash on dizzy; and have clean rags/papertowel and WD40 with you in case dizzy/something gets wet).
... Do this and find all the leaks.
... Depending on condition of trans fluid; choices are gently resnug trans pan bolts (only do this when trans is cold or aluminum threads will strip), or remove pan and service trans (set bands, new filter and +4 fluid).
... Keep an eye on plenum for oil/pooling; or do plenum test.

Well I have the money and time to do another project so I think I'll jump into something. That being said is the plenum test the same as the blow by test? (1)
What are the trans set bands?(2). Not sure how to service the transmission.

Will clean the engine up and see if I can find the leaks!

Thanks key.
-JC

 

[key99]

is the plenum test the same as the blow by test? (1)
What are the trans set bands?(2). Not sure how to service the transmission.

1. ... Not the same: see post 17 for both; this is said there for plenum test---

--- "Best/normal way to test plenum is to plug all 3 and remove dipstick,then feel for vacuum at dipstick hole (wet finger works well)."

Note: test may not work if engine has excessive blowby and/or plenum leak is minor.

2. Set the bands is to "adjust" the bands;---
--- the "front" band (aka 2/3 or kickdown band) adjuster is on outside of trans
--- the "rear" band (aka low/reverse band) has the adjuster on inside of trans (pan must be off).

I do not have info for your truck (number of turns to back adjusters off, or the torque).
... Will need "inch/pound" torque wrench.

... And the fluid looks like??????? (should be able to see thru it; not dirty, or smell burnt!!!); if fluid is ok would drive it a bit, in case there's other trans issues.

 

[JcRiggleman]

1. ... Not the same: see post 17 for both; this is said there for plenum test---

--- "Best/normal way to test plenum is to plug all 3 and remove dipstick,then feel for vacuum at dipstick hole (wet finger works well)."

Note: test may not work if engine has excessive blowby and/or plenum leak is minor.

2. Set the bands is to "adjust" the bands;---
--- the "front" band (aka 2/3 or kickdown band) adjuster is on outside of trans
--- the "rear" band (aka low/reverse band) has the adjuster on inside of trans (pan must be off).

I do not have info for your truck (number of turns to back adjusters off, or the torque).
... Will need "inch/pound" torque wrench.

... And the fluid looks like??????? (should be able to see thru it; not dirty, or smell burnt!!!); if fluid is ok would drive it a bit, in case there's other trans issues.

The transmission fluid has a nice red color to it. Doesn't seem super dirty or smell burnt. I will test plenum and blow by tomorrow afternoon and post results. Then I'll let you direct my steps to the next project!
-JC

 

[JcRiggleman]

Appears dirtier than some; hard to tell from pics but "appears" dry, no obvious oil or pooled oil which, if so, is good.

... For the dirty ish: would check/clean PCV valve and its line, replace valve if needed; also check crankcase vent, which is hose/fitting from air hat to dr side valve cover (this hose admits fresh air to crankcase for PCV); if this hose has dirtied/oiled a spot/area on the air filter, indicates PCV issue or excess blowyby and/or has been driven hard/high rpm.
... Light weight oil and/or higher mile engines may cause some spotting on air filter and is ok.

... While checking/cleaning this, its a perfect time to check for blowby (which is always important to know): concept is to only allow crankcase pressures to escape from 1 hole (either PCV hole, or fresh air hole, or oil cap), you wanna plug 2 of the 3. ... So with engine and oil both fully warmed up/hot, and idling---
---leave oil cap on
---unplug PVC hose at intake; plug both hose and intake fitting (fingers etc)
---unplug fresh air hose at air hat/filter: blowby/smoke/pulses escaping crankcase will now be forced out this hose and are visible (use hand to feel/check pulses too)
NOTE: should always be slight/some positive pressure escaping; if you feel vacuum here the plenum is leaking!!! ... Best/normal way to test plenum is to plug all 3 and remove dipstick,then feel for vacuum at dipstick hole (wet finger works well).
... the less blowby the better: very light wafting smoke is ok/good, small equal "pulsing" from all 8 cyls is normal; heavier smoke indicates some blowby; any one or more cyls that "pulse" larger/much larger than the others is cause for concern (these cyls spark plugs are often oily etc and should be noted; record these cyl/s # for future reference, as they're more likely to get worse).

(myself usually plug PVC and fresh, than watch at filler cap; good to do it both ways but may depend, you'll see why if you do both) ... Good luck.

Alright here are my findings. I warmed the truck up. Next I removed PCV hose at manifold. Rpms increased at this point. Removed clean air hose at air intake.
Plugged with fingers at first then eventually with tape the manifold opening and the hose connected to pcv. Engine dropped Rpms almost as if it wanted to die then settled down at a low idle. One almost comparable to normal idle. Let this sit for a while, while I watched the gas escaping clean air hose. Air was white/grey and seemed to have even pulse leaving the hose. I couldn't feel a pulse with finger however and I Did Not feel any vaccuum. The engine sounded the same the whole time I let it idle as well. Seemed all firings were equal. (1) good news?

Next I removed oil dip stick. Then tapped off clean air hose. Saw smoke come from dipstick. Felt for vaccuum at dip stick ... None. Good news? (2)

Lastly I removed oil cap replaced dipstick and again saw vapors escape from
Oil filler cap again nothing super out of the ordinary. No crazy pulsing. No crazy billowing dark smoke.
(3) what does this tell me?
(4) by the way both O2 codes are back. P0132 p0135. Came back earlier in the week. Trying my darnedest to figure this out why. Could having a really bad plenum leak not show up with these tests and cause my O2 sensor problem again?

Lastly can you explain how PCV valve works? (5) is there supposed to a suction or air flow up through the valve cover through pcv valve into the hose into the manifold? Does the pcv stay open when this is happening? If there is air flowing in the other direction the pcv valve will remain closed?

Thanks. Looking forward to your response and help on trying to fine tune my engine and rid me of these annoying codes!!

Ps below is a picture of clean air hose at intake blowing grey smoke. It's upside down.
- Jc

 

[key99]

Alright here are my findings. I warmed the truck up. Next I removed PCV hose at manifold. Rpms increased at this point. Removed clean air hose at air intake.
Plugged with fingers at first then eventually with tape the manifold opening and the hose connected to pcv. Engine dropped Rpms almost as if it wanted to die then settled down at a low idle. One almost comparable to normal idle. Let this sit for a while, while I watched the gas escaping clean air hose. Air was white/grey and seemed to have even pulse leaving the hose. I couldn't feel a pulse with finger however and I Did Not feel any vaccuum. The engine sounded the same the whole time I let it idle as well. Seemed all firings were equal. (1) good news?

Next I removed oil dip stick. Then tapped off clean air hose. Saw smoke come from dipstick. Felt for vaccuum at dip stick ... None. Good news? (2)

Lastly I removed oil cap replaced dipstick and again saw vapors escape from
Oil filler cap again nothing super out of the ordinary. No crazy pulsing. No crazy billowing dark smoke.
(3) what does this tell me?
(4) by the way both O2 codes are back. P0132 p0135. Came back earlier in the week. Trying my darnedest to figure this out why. Could having a really bad plenum leak not show up with these tests and cause my O2 sensor problem again?

Lastly can you explain how PCV valve works? (5) is there supposed to a suction or air flow up through the valve cover through pcv valve into the hose into the manifold? Does the pcv stay open when this is happening? If there is air flowing in the other direction the pcv valve will remain closed?

1. Good (if you mean pulses).
2. Good; but not absolute if blowby volume is greater than the plenum leaks ability to ingest it. ... Watch plenum floor for oil/pooling, moreso at rear as engine is tilted lower at rear.
3. Good.
4. Being plenum is not wet/soaking wet would not suspect plenum leak unless it just began; but it is pretty dirty, would certainly keep an eye on it. See 2.

... High intake vacuum sucks crankcase vapors/blowby thru PCV valve, vapors go to cyls to be reburned, PCV closes when intake vac is low.
...Line on other valve cover supplies fresh filtered air to crankcase, to make up for air pcv extracts; and if blowby is excessive, line allows blowby to safely escape crankcase and flow backwards to air hat (otherwise main seals would be pressurized and wear too fast and/or leak; may cause other leaks too).

 

[JcRiggleman]

1. Good (if you mean pulses).
2. Good; but not absolute if blowby volume is greater than the plenum leaks ability to ingest it. ... Watch plenum floor for oil/pooling, moreso at rear as engine is tilted lower at rear.
3. Good.
4. Being plenum is not wet/soaking wet would not suspect plenum leak unless it just began; but it is pretty dirty, would certainly keep an eye on it. See 2.

... High intake vacuum sucks crankcase vapors/blowby thru PCV valve, vapors go to cyls to be reburned, PCV closes when intake vac is low.
...Line on other valve cover supplies fresh filtered air to crankcase, to make up for air pcv extracts; and if blowby is excessive, line allows blowby to safely escape crankcase and flow backwards to air hat (otherwise main seals would be pressurized and wear too fast and/or leak; may cause other leaks too).

Okay why advice on where to go from here? I have two goals. Make sure the engine and transmission are working well before buying cool wheels and fancy upgrades that are cosmetic.
Second clear all codes and problems.

(1) should I try an oem spark plug for upstream?
(2) change out down stream spark plug?
(3) buy new pipes that haven't been hacked and modified to straight pipe?
(4) drop 125 a do pleniium fix any way?
(5) change gasket on transmission because seemingly it's doing okay. No real problems I can attest to?
(6) or do something totally different like change the rear ends differential fluid. Or any other fluid? (What else is there fluid wise besides oil, trans, coolant, and differential fluid?)
(7) in Florida. I can install trans cooler?
(8) start knocking off dirt off front end steering bushings and such look for anything that needs to be replaced?

Basically I have some free time Saturday and want a small project. Trying to figure out order of importance or complication.
Advice needed!!!!
Thanks.
Jc.

 

[key99]

Okay why advice on where to go from here? I have two goals. Make sure the engine and transmission are working well before buying cool wheels and fancy upgrades that are cosmetic.
Second clear all codes and problems.

(1) should I try an oem spark plug for upstream?
(2) change out down stream spark plug?
(3) buy new pipes that haven't been hacked and modified to straight pipe?
(4) drop 125 a do pleniium fix any way?
(5) change gasket on transmission because seemingly it's doing okay. No real problems I can attest to?
(6) or do something totally different like change the rear ends differential fluid. Or any other fluid? (What else is there fluid wise besides oil, trans, coolant, and differential fluid?)
(7) in Florida. I can install trans cooler?
(8) start knocking off dirt off front end steering bushings and such look for anything that needs to be replaced?

1,2,3. Start new thread.
4,5. Your call.
6. 2 diffs, also t-case and power steering.
7. Good idea.
8. For sure.

 

[JcRiggleman]

1,2,3. Start new thread.
4,5. Your call.
6. 2 diffs, also t-case and power steering.
7. Good idea.
8. For sure.

(1) How do I go about installing trans cooler. Where's it located. Do I have to replace a stock one? Is it basically a trans oil cooler?
JC

 

[key99]

(1) How do I go about installing trans cooler. Where's it located. Do I have to replace a stock one? Is it basically a trans oil cooler? JC

Note what the truck has (follow both trans lines by or to the rad). Search, Googleee, tons of info.