[JcRiggleman]

Hi,
New to dodge talk. Recently purchased 01 Dodge Ram 1500 crew cab 5.9l 4x4. I have 133k miles on it. I called the dealership and found out I have the 3.55 rear end gears. I have a 3inch Body lift on the truck. (Assuming this because the blocks under the lead spring are three inches)

The questions.

1. With a 3 inch lift what's the biggest size rim and tire I can go without rub or dramatic changes to the truck (New Gears). Is 35s on 20x10 to big? To wide of a turn radius? Would 33s on 20x10 or 20x9s be better? Want to maximize this and fill my wheel well up as much as possible.

2. Will my rear end be able to handle this increase? Currently running 275 75r16 rims and tires. Will my transmission be able to take the Increase in wheel size?

3. What will my gas mileage look like? Currently getting about 10 miles to the gallon

4. At tires or MT tires? I will not be mudding. Mostly high way driving with towing my boat. However I've heard MT can be cheaper but also kill gas mileage. Budget is 1200-1400 rims and tires. Not afraid of used rims but is used tires okay?

5. Which brings me to the last set of question. When do I use my 4x4? What's the difference between 4wd hi and low and 2wd Lo? I haven't had to use 4x4 pulling my boat yet but I'm case I do I need an education. Read online not to use 4x4 on dry pavement? Don't want to ruin the truck. Very new to 4x4.

Thank you guys ahead of time. Will do my best to clarify any of these questions if they don't make sense.
-JC

 

[key99]

1. This "sticky" thread at top of this forum may help with tires/rims

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111612

2. Helpful to mention weight of boat (myself not a fan of huge rubber on 1500/3.55; but you have small/light truck with 360 torque). ... Tall rubber might be perfect for towing the boat with OD locked out (trans will be in 3rd with Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) engaged, perfect for towing).

3. 10 mpg is not very good; sounds like it may need tuneup, or cat/something.

4. AT/MT; helpful to mention your clime (I find road/tire noise tiresome; may depend on your boat launches). ... Myself, for "cold" climes, much prefer new tires/BEADS to avoid bead leaks in winter.

5. FAIK stock trucks do not have 2 low, only 2 high.
... Do not drive in 4wd on dry pavement or hard ground (will cause driveline "windup" and will cause serious driveline WEAR/failure, tire wear too).
... 4wd is only for icy/slick/greasy or muddy or "loose" surfaces (use it on sand if you need to).
... When done carefully, if you must, it's "acceptable" to use 4wd on pavement/hardground for a short distance if you need to pull out a stuck vehicle etc (also avoid turning if you can)

...
... Good to learn how vacuum operated CAD for the 4wd functions (if HVAC goes to defrost on its own there is issue with vacuum system, which is often simple to fix); CAD is on frt axle, here's some info

http://www.4x4wire.com/dodge/tech/solid_axle_cad/

... 4wd LOW utilizes a planetary inside the t-case to provide gear reduction (lower speed but more torque); use it when necessary to avoid creating excessive converter/trans heat or load, otherwise use 4wd high.
... Normal position/driving is 2 high.
... IDK 01 control for t-case; let us know if it has a stick/lever on floor, or switch on dash. ... Welcome to DT; and that truck is a sweet find!

 

[JcRiggleman]

Thanks for all the info so far.

Okay so here we go.

The boat is about 1800 pounds with the trailer.

10 mpg is just what I average I believe I do more on the highway. However I may need a tune up any ways. What does the consit of? (Air filter, oil change, spark plugs?)

I don't want to diminish my mpg tremendously so if I'm following currently less runber (MT has less the AT) is better? I live in Florida so pretty much warm year around except for when it hits 30s in January.

Lastly yes I have a stick shift in the floor that says 4l, n, 2h, and 4h. Can you give me a scenario when I would use 4l vs 4h? Thanks again.

Yea got the truck from a city auction. Great steal at 2.5k in my opinion.

-JC

 

[Moparite]

However I may need a tune up any ways. What does the consit of? (Air filter, oil change, spark plugs?)

Depending on what things look like, Cap and rotor(get an oem style cap, It has brass inserts compared to the aluminum ones that corrode)
Wires: The factory used 7mm wires and there have been issues with spark jump so a good set of 8mm wires will work fine.
Plugs: Many of us use Autolites. I have used Champions and didn't like them compared to Autolites but that is up to you.
I would brop the pan on the trans and do a fluid and filter change. No telling when it was done last. Since you live in Fla a good trans cooler would be a good idea especially if you plan on towing a lot.
4 low is a stump puller and you will probably never use it. 4 high will fit most uses when you need 4WD.

 

[JcRiggleman]

Thanks for the info! Will do all those things!! If I need to know how to do any of those things they should be on you tube or online some where and not to hard to find, right??

I don't know if my question was fully answered about my rear end and transmission. Will increasing my wheels (to whatever size doesn't rub whether the be 33 inch tire or 35) cause way to much stress on the transmission and the gears?

Thank a lot

-JC

 

[key99]

Yep, extra stress on trans (mostly more conv heat getting tall ratio and heavier fuel sucking rubber rollin).
... Might check out block size for rear leafs; IIRC stock trucks came with 2" block, unsure.

... 10 mpg: would check cat, and for sure check out "plenum leak"; look down inside throttle body to bottom of plenum floor; should not be any oil, or oil pooling at rear (rear of plenum is lowest when truck is level); dirty oil that has misted onto plenum floor etc from PCV valve is acceptable).

... Would check out the truck before anything else, then pull/INSPECT the plugs, do tune up as moparite said (many prefer Autolite 3923 plugs)
... For sure, check out the all the frt end steering (sector/pitman shaft and trac bar play) and frt axle u-joints at wheels, and for leaks at ends of frt axle tubes (one night, park it so one side is low; next night, park with other side low: repairs here can get pricey.

... And make sure trans is working good; besides the usual, ensure converter is locking and not slipping (take it for 30+ mile drive and see if it drops out of OD; if so, trans overheating).
... Whats the condition of trans fluid???... FL, yup, get trans cooler for sure.

... Big rubber puts more strain on most things; think frt unit bearings (hub brg$) too.

 

[JcRiggleman]

Aftera bit of research I think I have concluded to do some work to my truck before the nice cosmetics. No point in having cool tires and rims and a blown tranny or 8 mpg!!!!!!

(1) That being said do you suggest a trans cooler even at 133k miles??

I don't believe my transmission nor my engine have been rebuilt. I don't believe any huge front end work has been done either.

Other threads and private messages are suggesting changing out my gears to at least 4.10. If not 4.56.

(2) What's the average cost of this? I have a 4x4 so I have to do it for the front and back. (3) Correct?

Here's a list of what I want to do by priority. Please critique!!!!

A. Tune Up. (Plugs, wires, cat, filters, leaks, and check out condition of front end.) in my camry a tale tale sign of a bad front end was a ripped boot on a cv axle. Any other tips I should be looking for?

B. (4) Trans cooler. (Maybe? )

C. Bigger Gears. (5) ( do I replace just gears or whole rear end?)

D. then I can go with bigger tires and rims. Or possible another 3" suspension lift on top of the 3inch body lift I have in order to get 35s on the front.

(6) Lastly I bought the truck for 2.5k is it worth putting money into? (7) How much can I get out of this truck? 200k?

That's all. I have numbered all my questions for easy reference. Hope you guys can answer them all! Thanks in advance!

-JC

 

[key99]

Aftera bit of research I think I have concluded to do some work to my truck before the nice cosmetics. No point in having cool tires and rims and a blown tranny or 8 mpg!!!!!!

(1) That being said do you suggest a trans cooler even at 133k miles??

I don't believe my transmission nor my engine have been rebuilt. I don't believe any huge front end work has been done either.

Other threads and private messages are suggesting changing out my gears to at least 4.10. If not 4.56.

(2) What's the average cost of this? I have a 4x4 so I have to do it for the front and back. (3) Correct?

Here's a list of what I want to do by priority. Please critique!!!!

A. Tune Up. (Plugs, wires, cat, filters, leaks, and check out condition of front end.) in my camry a tale tale sign of a bad front end was a ripped boot on a cv axle. Any other tips I should be looking for?

B. (4) Trans cooler. (Maybe? )

C. Bigger Gears. (5) ( do I replace just gears or whole rear end?)

D. then I can go with bigger tires and rims. Or possible another 3" suspension lift on top of the 3inch body lift I have in order to get 35s on the front.

(6) Lastly I bought the truck for 2.5k is it worth putting money into? (7) How much can I get out of this truck? 200k?

That's all. I have numbered all my questions for easy reference. Hope you guys can answer them all! Thanks in advance! -JC

1. Yes, trans cooler for FL ambients IMO; especially with tall rubber/3.55/towing.

2. Correct, must do both diffs.

2A. ... Priority, as said before: check plenum, check frt axle and steering, could also check cat, check both diffs and t-case oils for cuttings etc (rear LSD often loose/spit out clips, may or may not damage gearset/brgs; pull the rear cover to inspect), check plugs; then you'll have far more info to make choices.
2B. ... Check condition of trans oil ??? (should be clear ish, and not smell burnt), or service trans, before possibly polluting a brand new cooler!!
2C. ... If you do gear sets and brgs and seals type rebuild etc you'll know exactly what you have.
... Especially with frt axle (seals, ball joints, axle u-joints too; kinda all or nothing is best IMO); it largely depends on how hard it is to remove the rusted in unit brgs, and if the dr side axle seal is leaking.
2D. ... Others will have lift advice for relocating? trac bar, and lowered pitman arm (and steering brace to fit it), and all the rest.

6 and 7. You'll have to check out the whole truck, who knows. ... Basic engine short blocks are very good; some heads crack (myself never shut off anything hot, make sure heads have had time to cool; and do not idle an engine if it's kinda hot, or after it has been working hard; 1300-1800 rpm with trans in Neutral is far better; then, either---
--- allow it to idle a few seconds, drop into gear, gooo
--- or idle for a minute then shut it off.

... Definitely forego cosmetics/rims/fancy tires till you know the basic truck (an auction truck or any truck; could have a bad head, cyl, cat, plenum, t-case, trans, diff, frt end and axle $$$$$$$$$$$$$$, andddd).

... Cost wise, cooling system condition, and basic brakes haven't even been mentioned yet.
...Unless your newer truck is better (Sports? were better), 2G 1500 brakes a nothing to brag about (tall rubber will make it worse).

 

[JcRiggleman]

Thanks key,

The truck seems to run good as is. 133k miles on it didn't seem like a lot for how old it is. That being Said I will be checking out all these things you have mentioned. Should make for a few fun weekends!

If everything checks out and I make the necessary adjustments and fixes I will proceed with the bells and whistles.

(1) Do you know at what lift size I have to swap my drive train for a longer drive train?
(2) I currently have an oil pressure light that does not work. Read online that some people fluctuate. Mine stays at zero. Any ideals what and how to fix this?
(3) lastly, previous owner installed aftermarket exhaust on it. Now the check engine light is on due to the O2 sensor being in the wrong spot. (This is what I have been told). Any chance that can be fixed?
Thanks again for all the help. You have been great!! Getting a real education.
-JC

 

[key99]

seems to run good as is.

(1) Do you know at what lift size I have to swap my drive train for a longer drive train?
(2) I currently have an oil pressure light that does not work. Read online that some people fluctuate. Mine stays at zero. Any ideals what and how to fix this?
(3) lastly, previous owner installed aftermarket exhaust on it. Now the check engine light is on due to the O2 sensor being in the wrong spot. (This is what I have been told). Any chance that can be fixed?

1. No clue; would search this forum, and 2G drivetrain and general forum; maybe best to start a new thread stating all the truck info.

2. This is definitely the first thing to address, especially being it's an auction truck with unknown history!
... Oil pressure sending unit is on back of engine by dizzy (pass side); check wires/connector, or sender may be toast (you may need a fancy tool/socket? to R+R sender, unsure).
... Many just try a new sender; could do that and see what happens.
... Just changing sender is not my preferred choice; FAIK puter just generates a ok signal for the gauge (gauge does not show the "actual pressure"; almost useless IMO, it just gives the owner a false/fuzzy/warm "yup, it's all good" feeling.

... But if the engine lacks oil pressure for any reason it must be IMMEDIATELY addressed!!
... Best is to test oil pressure with a master/test gauge (or known good mechanical gauge); best when both engine and the oil are fully warmed up/hot with new filter and oil (standard weight 10/30, or 10/40 or maybe 15/40 for FL); or at the least test the pressure as is.
... Dodge "allows" a very low minimum of 6 psi @ idle, and should be 30-80 psi @ 3000 rpm.
... Record test particulars and results and/or chizzle em on your doorpost/forehead/fridge/somewhere so they don't get lost! (oil pressure records can be important when making choices in the future).

3. A likely cause of poor mileage; pic would be great and/or description of where it is; others will have better advice; or search it.

 

[JcRiggleman]

1. No clue; would search this forum, and 2G drivetrain and general forum; maybe best to start a new thread stating all the truck info.

2. This is definitely the first thing to address, especially being it's an auction truck with unknown history!
... Oil pressure sending unit is on back of engine by dizzy (pass side); check wires/connector, or sender may be toast (you may need a fancy tool/socket? to R+R sender, unsure).
... Many just try a new sender; could do that and see what happens.
... Just changing sender is not my preferred choice; FAIK puter just generates a ok signal for the gauge (gauge does not show the "actual pressure"; almost useless IMO, it just gives the owner a false/fuzzy/warm "yup, it's all good" feeling.

... But if the engine lacks oil pressure for any reason it must be IMMEDIATELY addressed!!
... Best is to test oil pressure with a master/test gauge (or known good mechanical gauge); best when both engine and the oil are fully warmed up/hot with new filter and oil (standard weight 10/30, or 10/40 or maybe 15/40 for FL); or at the least test the pressure as is.
... Dodge "allows" a very low minimum of 6 psi @ idle, and should be 30-80 psi @ 3000 rpm.
... Record test particulars and results and/or chizzle em on your doorpost/forehead/fridge/somewhere so they don't get lost! (oil pressure records can be important when making choices in the future).

3. A likely cause of poor mileage; pic would be great and/or description of where it is; others will have better advice; or search it.

Okay here's the deal.
Oil pressure sending unit fixed the oil pressure problem. Found out I needed to add oil to. Took previous owners (grandfather) word that he recently got an oil change.

Replaced O2 sensor. One code went away. P0135 one code stayed p0132.
Defiantly think bad gas mileage could be due to this.
Saw online that p0132 may be a vac leak. (1) how do I test this. How do I know of this is true or test for something else.
Thanks
-JC

 

[key99]

Saw online that p0132 may be a vac leak. (1) how do I test this. How do I know of this is true or test for something else.

Use vacuum gauge to test intake manifold vacuum (17-22" HG at idle; although action of needle is often more important).
... Online may have been referring to leaking plenum gasket allowing vacuum leak to suck excess oil into intake and messing up 02 readings as that oil mostly gets burned and sends oil laden exhaust past the 02.

... To check for plenum pan leaking was suggested earlier (as was checking 02 harness); what was found on both has not been mentioned (process of elimination reduces guessing and chasing phantoms).

 

[JcRiggleman]

Use vacuum gauge to test intake manifold vacuum (17-22" HG at idle; although action of needle is often more important).
... Online may have been referring to leaking plenum gasket allowing vacuum leak to suck excess oil into intake and messing up 02 readings as that oil mostly gets burned and sends oil laden exhaust past the 02.

... To check for plenum pan leaking was suggested earlier (as was checking 02 harness); what was found on both has not been mentioned (process of elimination reduces guessing and chasing phantoms).

Whoops those will be the very next two things I do. (1) what part of the hardest am I looking at and am I looking for just melted or damaged wires?
(2) what am I looking for with the plenum pan leak?
Thanks as always
-JC

 

[key99]

(1) am I looking for just melted or damaged wires?
(2) what am I looking for with the plenum pan leak?

1. ... That's a good start; see other thread for p0132 link
2. ... Remove air filter housing: open throttle and with flashlight look down to plenum floor, slight dirty oil mist from PCV valve is ok, any oil pooling on floor (usually at rear) indicates vac leak (leaks here it suck in oil); lots of pics/vids on this common 2G issue; see post 11 for some

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=481977&highlight=plenum+leak

 

[JcRiggleman]

1. ... That's a good start; see other thread for p0132 link
2. ... Remove air filter housing: open throttle and with flashlight look down to plenum floor, slight dirty oil mist from PCV valve is ok, any oil pooling on floor (usually at rear) indicates vac leak (leaks here it suck in oil); lots of pics/vids on this common 2G issue; see post 11 for some

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=481977&highlight=plenum+leak

No visible damage on the wire harness.

Here is a picture looking inside for oil. (1). What do you think. Is it supposed to look like this?
-JC

 

[JcRiggleman]

This too

 

[key99]

Appears dirtier than some; hard to tell from pics but "appears" dry, no obvious oil or pooled oil which, if so, is good.

... For the dirty ish: would check/clean PCV valve and its line, replace valve if needed; also check crankcase vent, which is hose/fitting from air hat to dr side valve cover (this hose admits fresh air to crankcase for PCV); if this hose has dirtied/oiled a spot/area on the air filter, indicates PCV issue or excess blowyby and/or has been driven hard/high rpm.
... Light weight oil and/or higher mile engines may cause some spotting on air filter and is ok.

... While checking/cleaning this, its a perfect time to check for blowby (which is always important to know): concept is to only allow crankcase pressures to escape from 1 hole (either PCV hole, or fresh air hole, or oil cap), you wanna plug 2 of the 3. ... So with engine and oil both fully warmed up/hot, and idling---
---leave oil cap on
---unplug PVC hose at intake; plug both hose and intake fitting (fingers etc)
---unplug fresh air hose at air hat/filter: blowby/smoke/pulses escaping crankcase will now be forced out this hose and are visible (use hand to feel/check pulses too)
NOTE: should always be slight/some positive pressure escaping; if you feel vacuum here the plenum is leaking!!! ... Best/normal way to test plenum is to plug all 3 and remove dipstick,then feel for vacuum at dipstick hole (wet finger works well).
... the less blowby the better: very light wafting smoke is ok/good, small equal "pulsing" from all 8 cyls is normal; heavier smoke indicates some blowby; any one or more cyls that "pulse" larger/much larger than the others is cause for concern (these cyls spark plugs are often oily etc and should be noted; record these cyl/s # for future reference, as they're more likely to get worse).

(myself usually plug PVC and fresh, than watch at filler cap; good to do it both ways but may depend, you'll see why if you do both) ... Good luck.

 

[JcRiggleman]

Appears dirtier than some; hard to tell from pics but "appears" dry, no obvious oil or pooled oil which, if so, is good.

... For the dirty ish: would check/clean PCV valve and its line, replace valve if needed; also check crankcase vent, which is hose/fitting from air hat to dr side valve cover (this hose admits fresh air to crankcase for PCV); if this hose has dirtied/oiled a spot/area on the air filter, indicates PCV issue or excess blowyby and/or has been driven hard/high rpm.
... Light weight oil and/or higher mile engines may cause some spotting on air filter and is ok.

... While checking/cleaning this, its a perfect time to check for blowby (which is always important to know): concept is to only allow crankcase pressures to escape from 1 hole (either PCV hole, or fresh air hole, or oil cap), you wanna plug 2 of the 3. ... So with engine and oil both fully warmed up/hot, and idling---
---leave oil cap on
---unplug PVC line at the intake; use thumb and finger to plug both line and fitting
---unplug fresh air line at either end, then watch for blowby (smoke) escaping from crankcase
... the less blowby the better: very light wafting smoke is good, small equal "pulsing" from all 8 cyls is normal; heavier smoke indicates some blowby; any one or more cyls that "pulse" larger/much larger than the others is cause for concern (these cyls spark plugs are often oily etc and should be noted; record these cyl/s # for future reference, as they're more likely to get worse).

(myself usually plug PVC and fresh, than watch at filler cap; good to do it both ways but may depend, you'll see why if you do both) ... Good luck.

Okay, a lot has happened since we last spoke. I didn't do all the things you have told me to do yet because I'm still putting the truck back together. Had to order a piece of hose for pcv and it's taking a while. That being said when it comes I'll do the "blowby" test. For now this is what I have checked and fixed in order for my check engine light to go away.


First I replaced the pcv valve, pcv hose and grommet. (All were super hard plastic and brittle.)
Replaced pcv elbow on other valve cover, left the grommet and hose on that side because they looked fine.

Hopefully I did all these tests correctly, let me know if I didn't. Here's the link I used for these tests.
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chrysler/3.9L-5.2L-5.9L/how-test-the-tps-1

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-test-an-idle-air-control-valve#b

Next tested my three sensors that have to do with air and idling. Thought process was maybe a bad sensor is reading to much air so the computer is telling the engine to use to much gas thus a high voltage on the O2 sensor or rich mixture.
MAP sensor was fine. Used multimeter to make sure it was working. 4.7 v at rest less volts when vaccuum by mouth was applies. Dropped to 4.1-4.2 volts then returned back to 4.7 when I was done. (I think this was enough drop in voltage because the vaccum was applied by mouth. The link said with a vaccuum I could expect the volts to drop to 1.5)

Next checked TPS sensor. With throttle close the multimeter read .4 with it open it read 3.6. Thus it was responding fine.

Lastly I checked IAC. Olms test. Read less then .05 on all metal prongs on back of sensor. Did look dirty/carbon build up but I did not replace it... (1) Wasn't sure if I should have though due to carbon)

Tomorrow I will put in the pcv hose and fire it up after resetting the computer. Hopefuly changing the pcv valve or something will cause the rich mixture to stop. (2) how likely is this?
(3) last option could be a plenium leak causing oil to burn and have rich mixture correct??
(4) lastly I just found out I have a bigger battery in the truck then it calls for. Could this be the cause of the high voltage in an O2 sensor?!?!

As always thank you for the help. If you need me to clarify anything let me know.

 

[key99]

Next checked TPS sensor. With throttle close the multimeter read .4 with it open it read 3.6. Thus it was responding fine.

Lastly I checked IAC. Olms test. Read less then .05 on all metal prongs on back of sensor. Did look dirty/carbon build up but I did not replace it... (1) Wasn't sure if I should have though due to carbon)

Tomorrow I will put in the pcv hose and fire it up after resetting the computer. Hopefuly changing the pcv valve or something will cause the rich mixture to stop. (2) how likely is this?
(3) last option could be a plenium leak causing oil to burn and have rich mixture correct??
(4) lastly I just found out I have a bigger battery in the truck then it calls for. Could this be the cause of the high voltage in an O2 sensor?!?!

As always thank you for the help. If you need me to clarify anything let me know.

FAIK best to test TPS with analog/needle type meter but even that is "iffy".

1. ... Light carbon film ok; but best to clean IAC (do not pull pintle at all) and hole/passage in throttle body.
2. ... who knows.
3. ... Others with plenum leak complain of high oil consumption, and IIRC fuel too.
4. ... Physically bigger than stock 27C? ... It's a standard 12V system/battery.
... Higher amp/hr, CCA or CA, and/or RC rating is fine/GOOD!

Myself, if you can would stick to p0132; messing with other stuff may introduce a phantom issue elsewhere.
... Clear the PCM now too.

 

[JcRiggleman]

FAIK best to test TPS with analog/needle type meter but even that is "iffy".

1. ... Light carbon film ok; but best to clean IAC (do not pull pintle at all) and hole/passage in throttle body.
2. ... who knows.
3. ... Others with plenum leak complain of high oil consumption, and IIRC fuel too.
4. ... Physically bigger than stock 27C? ... It's a standard 12V system/battery.
... Higher amp/hr, CCA or CA, and/or RC rating is fine/GOOD!

Myself, if you can would stick to p0132; messing with other stuff may introduce a phantom issue elsewhere.
... Clear the PCM now too.

Okay it may be good to mention that when I bought the car the owner said they recently had an oil change. That being said I was bone dry on oil a month after buying the vehicle. This may point to high oil consumption.

Also I will do the blow by test tomorrow. (1) what does this check? When the oil cap left on does this count as the oil pkugged?! Confused.

Okay moving on put the truck back together this morning. Also did the O2 non fouler truck this morning also. All these things combined didn't take the O2 sensor code p0132 away. After reconnecting the battery the light came back about 5 -10 mins after turning the car back on and driving.

Seriously debating getting an oem O2 sensor. Or thinking the pleniium leak if there is one. Here is the underside of my truck. As you can see it looks very wet and oilly.. (2) thoughts on this?

Thanks
-JC