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Discussion Starter #1
Now I habe the rotors, they're cross drilled, slotted etc. and new ceramic pads already, but I had a few hours(thinking it would be easy) and I went out and removed the wheel, caliper etc. but when I got to the axle nut I COULD NOT GET IT OFF, I tried everything from a 3/4in. drive impact to a 3/4 drive ratchet with a huge cheater and sprayed WD-40, liquid wrench after I tried heating the nut with a propane torch(heat causes things to expand) I soaked it in all these lubes and let it sit overnight then tried it again, wouldn't budge. I can see the the nut is rusted on the the axle, but anyone got any ideas???? Thanks
 

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Not meaning to change the subject but I really like you wheels, what kind are they. And I'm not totally sure what your trying to do but if it's just the rotars they should just slide off, but thats on my 1500 and I'm not sure about the 3/4 or 1 ton trucks which is what I think you have
 

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Sorry didn't see in your sig that they were american racing wheels.
 

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mikeah169 said:
Not meaning to change the subject but I really like you wheels, what kind are they. And I'm not totally sure what your trying to do but if it's just the rotars they should just slide off, but thats on my 1500 and I'm not sure about the 3/4 or 1 ton trucks which is what I think you have
I have only done the 1/2 tons in the past and the rotors should slide off. However, if they have been on for years you will need to hammer the back side of the rotor to free them up. I usually use a dead blow hammer and wrap on them a few times.
 

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Use PB Blaster. That stuff works like a champ! Then go at it with the hammering.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
it's not the rotor itself, it's the axle nut holding the rotor on,once I get that off the rotor will just slide right off. I've tried heat, and beating it with an impact, I think I'm going to have to take it in to a brake shop, I've beat the castle nut so badly that the socket slips now, so I'm stumped, I'd try an air hammer but I'd hate to goll up the threads on the axle, I've even thought of using oxy-acetylene, but didn't want to melt or warp the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
oh yeah, and some guy was telling me today that pairing ceramic pads with a cross drilled/slotted rotor is a bad thing, and that I need to match the ceramic pads to a certain rotor, anyone know much about this?
 

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Plenty of people on this forum with hawk slotted and drilled toros, running ceramic pads. Don't know from personal experience, but they swear they are like night and day on our trucks...
 

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Mmmmmmmmm, beer.
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I'm running cermaics with slotted rotors, and it is such an improvement over the stock setup.
 

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They are sweet till you need to have them turned when you need new brakes again, you can forget it!
 

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I recently had my slotted rotors turned with no problems at all.
 

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I love my cross drilled rotors and Hawk ceramic pads. Haven't had to have 'em turned yet. Great improvement over stock, less noise and dust too.
 

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What kind of torque does your impact have? If possible you could try boosting your air pressure of your compressor. Don't go to high but 10-30p.s.i. makes a huge difference. If you go too high it could explode as you probably all ready know, that's why I say 10-30. I had to do that a few times.
Another option is get a new socket that will fit on it real good and use a cheater bar to break it loose. Use a breaker bar also. Ratchets usually can't hold up to that amount of torque. At work I was using a 1,000ft-lb impact @180 psi and it still wouldn't bust the ball joint nut loose on a ferd. Used a 5ft bar and it came right off. Also it might help to apply heat right before you try to bust it loose, not too much or you might melt your seals.
 
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