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yeah, i am open to all suggestions. i have a 360 with about116k miles on it in my 98 ram ss/t. any decent performance mods for it that wouldnt cost craploads of money. i want to get started into the high performance spectrum and i dont really know where to start. i am also really looking to learn a whole lot more about my truck and the particular motor that it has in it. my motor runs great, although the miles are pretty steep. my suspension is pretty much needed to be changed. my muffler is shot as well. i am looking to see where i can start and also find some new tires for my truck. i could really use everyone's help.
 

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I'd start with a modified throttle body - like one from the Fastman

then you'll need to open up the exhaust and possibly the cat converter

if you are on a budget, just swap out the muffler for now to a higher flow one. I'd recommend Magnaflow or Dynomax (not Flowmaster IMO)

and the air filter

check out the round filter that Silver Dodge Ram just installed, that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg


http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128055

that will get you started
 

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******* SPACESTATION
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Agree with what RAM MAN said except the air filter choice.
I'd go with the Edelbrock ProFlow, flows 900+ cfm, more than you'll need. And costs less than $30, plus about 30 minutes install time.
For the exhaust I would get a magnaflow high flow cat system ($158 shipped from www.hottexhaust.com). Replaces everything from the headers (or manifolds) back. New stainless mandrel bent y-pipe, high flow stainless cat converter, and comes with about 3' of stainless tubing behing the cat.
You could get the magnaflow setup, a high flow muffler, some turndowns and be done with it.
 

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Ram Racer
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I would go with a 14x3" K&N or the Mopar kit Ram Man suggests but put a K&N filter in it.
Headers, (Gibson, JBA, Mopar or Edelbrock/not tri tech coated) with ypipe to a 3" Magnaflow h/f cat. 3" pipework to a muffler (Magnaflow) and either dump it or side exit in front of the axle.

Want more
MP PCM
52mm tb
2pc u/d pulleys
electric fans/no viscous
 

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I used the RAM AIR box on my truck (RM Indy had it on his as well)

nice performance and looks cool too as soon as you open the hood

if you want another opinion on an air option

there ya go

www.ramairbox.com

for more info
 

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Your motor isn't tired yet, I have 167,500 on my 360 and it is still going strong. If your going to get into messing with your internals on that engine, it might be a good idea to also go ahead and rebuild it.
 

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Ram Racer
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stroke it to a 426 then blow it.
Didnt read his question.
"that wouldnt cost craploads of money."
Yeah he could do a 426 stroker with a blower on it if he wants to spend the 15-25k for parts needed.

I'd go with the Edelbrock ProFlow, flows 900+ cfm,
I would not put one of those on, Edelbrock is lieing about the flow #s and its not the best design IMHO. That wide piece of flat looking metal that runs overtop the tb from one side to the other under the filter is a major restriction and would cause a lot of turbulance. Small filter surface area it will either not filter properly or it will not give the rated flow.

My Eddy heads according to Edelbrock flow 256cfm at 550 lift and 28"hg. Hughes and KRC though both get about 232-236cfm on their flow bench same heads. I think I would trust independant testing over Edelbrocks biased testing.

Like all of Edelbrocks advertisements they tend to inflate performance gains. TES headers suppose to be good for .75seconds off 0-60times according to magazine advertising when I bought them. My 1/4 mile times dropped .1 seconds and 0-60mph even less. Not even close to their claims.

They do make good products for the most part(Tri Tech coating sucks) but do not believe their corporate BS on gains or flow rates.

I used the RAM AIR box on my truck (RM Indy had it on his as well)

nice performance and looks cool too as soon as you open the hood
Hands down the best for performance gains though it does cost more than a genII fipk it is worth every cent. Highway mileage noticeable increase and no other kit will improve 0-60mph or 1/4 mile times like the ramairbox will. It can be a bit tricky installing as you will remember Ram Man. I always loved the look but some dont fancy the alum ducts ;)

I had mine setup a bit different with the ducts opening at the holes for the foglights in the bumper.



 

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i'd like to pipe in

I agree with what RAM MAN and RM Indy are saying (hey guys, haven't seen you in awhile) with the execption of the headers. The best bang for headers would be to go with Pacesetter's longtube headers. Get them ceramic coated, put some high-flow cats behind them and 2.5" dual or 3" single exhaust. Good gains with the MP PCM (if you can find one) E-fan, intake and throttle body

Ty
 

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Ram Racer
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Hi Ty, long time no see, guess its going well by your sig :rck:
Looks like we may have similar specs/setup. Software telling me the same ets motor only. Im still sorting my 408 out. Are those pacesetters 1 3/4 primaries? I need a set of bigger/longer headers for when I am running boost again. Whats the length on them?
 

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RM Indy said:
Didnt read his question.

Yeah he could do a 426 stroker with a blower on it if he wants to spend the 15-25k for parts needed.


I would not put one of those on, Edelbrock is lieing about the flow #s and its not the best design IMHO. That wide piece of flat looking metal that runs overtop the tb from one side to the other under the filter is a major restriction and would cause a lot of turbulance. Small filter surface area it will either not filter properly or it will not give the rated flow.

My Eddy heads according to Edelbrock flow 256cfm at 550 lift and 28"hg. Hughes and KRC though both get about 232-236cfm on their flow bench same heads. I think I would trust independant testing over Edelbrocks biased testing.

Like all of Edelbrocks advertisements they tend to inflate performance gains. TES headers suppose to be good for .75seconds off 0-60times according to magazine advertising when I bought them. My 1/4 mile times dropped .1 seconds and 0-60mph even less. Not even close to their claims.

They do make good products for the most part(Tri Tech coating sucks) but do not believe their corporate BS on gains or flow rates.



Hands down the best for performance gains though it does cost more than a genII fipk it is worth every cent. Highway mileage noticeable increase and no other kit will improve 0-60mph or 1/4 mile times like the ramairbox will. It can be a bit tricky installing as you will remember Ram Man. I always loved the look but some dont fancy the alum ducts ;)

I had mine setup a bit different with the ducts opening at the holes for the foglights in the bumper.





15k thats alot considering the 426 stroker kit for the 360 is only a few g's and a ram blower is 4 more.
 

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FYI, Ram air like these mentioned do not affect performance till about 20-25mph, they will not help you get out of the hole fast or get a heavy load rolling faster.

They look neat though.
 

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stroker kit ~$2600
Machine Work ~$1500
Blower Heads ~$2500
P1SC ~$4500
F.A.S.T. ~$3200
Fuel System ~$1200
Total ~$15500

thats not including things like cam, rockers, headers, torque converter, gears, or a transmission to handle the power... stroker kits are NOT cheap, trust me :rck:

plus the 426 stroke is WAY to long for the revs needed for a blower. Low peak power and reduced piston velocity. 4.00" stroke is about as far as you want to go

BUT, back to the main topic... for starting off, PCM (or superchips if no MP PCM is available), Shift kit, Longtubes/exhaust, E-Fan, TB, and Rockers are the best bet. SWB RC Ram with 4.10 or 3.92 gears will put you in the 14.5-14.8 range at full street weight.

RM:
The PaceSetters are 1 3/4" primaries, VERY good power gain. Full length primaries to a 3" 4-in-1 collector. Collector exits are at the rear of the bellhousing

Ty
 

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twelveSecSST said:
stroker kit ~$2600
Machine Work ~$1500
Blower Heads ~$2500
P1SC ~$4500
F.A.S.T. ~$3200
Fuel System ~$1200
Total ~$15500
What company is that kit from?

This is what I have put together in the way of stroking my 5.2, costs should be within $200-$300 or cheaper, since a 5.9 uses the typical 4.00" slug for piston blanks:

$1600 for stroker kit includes:
Scat crankshaft and I beam Rods
Diamond Racing Forged Pistons & RINGS (multiple comp ratios, stock up to 10.5:1)
Clevitte - 77 rods and main

Melling High Volume Oil Pump $37.99
MP timing chain tensioner DCC=5007709 $38.99 Cheaper at the dealer.
Double roller timing chain set P5249267 $58.75
Intake plenum cover kit 7714 $80.50
MP Valve springs P4876062>
MP Chrome molly retainers P4452032>
MP Locks P4529218>
Springs, Retainers & Locks $216
Valves?
Cam? Comp Cams 312/218 $339
lifters $135
Harland Sharp roler rockers S70036 $309
or
Roller lifters P5249862 $111.25

Gasket set P4876249 112.50
Intake bolt set P4876772 $6.25

Machine work
Bore block typical cost $160
Hot tank and new cam bearing typical cost $70
Heads, 3-angle valve job $200
*Balancing $145-200

The last time I added it up, it was about $3500 I think...
 

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yeah but you're putting that on stock heads, intake and TB. Not really an efficient use of that power even if you port the stock magnum heads. Also you don't really want to go cheap on the crank and I-Beam rods if you're going to add a blower; H-beam + Forged Crank. = $$$. Plus you are especially going to want to add a ceramic coating for best reliability with a blower and 4-bolt conversion is an almost given with that kind of power. also thats a bit liberal on the price for the machine work, most machine shops charge $100/hr just for the labor.

I'm talking about a block that can, and has, produced 800rwhp under boost (twin turbo dakota). believe me, you get what you pay for, and theres no point in skimping if you're going into a stroker kit for power...

if you want a torquey RV motor, then your prices are accurate, but a stroker motor built for boost does NOT qualify as RV :D

you also have to add in fuel, tuning, and all of these other systems in order to make it reliable. its not just the cost of materials, building anything radical is not cheap

Ty
 

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twelveSecSST said:
yeah but you're putting that on stock heads, intake and TB. Not really an efficient use of that power even if you port the stock magnum heads. Also you don't really want to go cheap on the crank and I-Beam rods if you're going to add a blower; H-beam + Forged Crank. = $$$. Plus you are especially going to want to add a ceramic coating for best reliability with a blower and 4-bolt conversion is an almost given with that kind of power. also thats a bit liberal on the price for the machine work, most machine shops charge $100/hr just for the labor.

I'm talking about a block that can, and has, produced 800rwhp under boost (twin turbo dakota). believe me, you get what you pay for, and theres no point in skimping if you're going into a stroker kit for power...

if you want a torquey RV motor, then your prices are accurate, but a stroker motor built for boost does NOT qualify as RV :D

you also have to add in fuel, tuning, and all of these other systems in order to make it reliable. its not just the cost of materials, building anything radical is not cheap

Ty
I agree, but I am after just that, a torquey motor that spends most of it's life towing/hauling 800-1500 lbs, the occasional red light race (Rice, it's what's for dinner), and once a month at the drag strip.
I am looking at an operating range of idle to 5000 rpms, unless I go higher than that I don't see the need for upgrading to a high flow intake. I will probably opt for the HD heads (since they flow better out of the box), those combined with the cam listed should let the stroker setup breath fairly well. Enough for my application anyway.
If I was after a 12 second 1/4 mile ET, then i would do a lot of things differently...like start with a smaller, lighter vehicle (Dakota) instead of my heavy (5500 lbs) Ram.
 

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exactly, thats my point though, the 426 suggestion is far from your needs, i wasn't pricing out an RV motor.

That combo is incredibly powerful, but you'd also be suprised how much HP and TQ you can pick up from a m1 2bbl and 52mm TB on a nice torquer motor. unported Edelbrock heads get my vote with a KRC 206X Cam and 1.7 rockers on top of a 10.1 408ci or 390ci = mucho torque! :bman:

but stroker motors arent the topic of this discussion as they do not count as "relatively inexpensive" even for an RV motor



Ty
 

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but stroker motors arent the topic of this discussion as they do not count as "relatively inexpensive" even for an RV motor
agreed, but what is relative?
To me, a full rebuild with more power to boot for less than 4,000 is relatively inexpensive. Considering a crate motor runs about $5500 for the same hp / tq numbers.
The author of this thread states he is staring to get into "the high performance spectrum and i dont really know where to start."
Starting with a good foundation is better than throwing bolt-ons at a tired motor.
I started throwing bolt-ons (see sig) on my 5.2 and still haven't broken 300 hp yet.
Don't get me wrong, it's quick for a work horse, but had I started out with a new rotating assembly or a cam, I'd be posting higher numbers now.
 

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JD770 FYI, Ram air like these mentioned do not affect performance till about 20-25mph, they will not help you get out of the hole fast or get a heavy load rolling faster.
If your comparing this to stock, ramairbox would be noticeably faster off the line. Compared to any other cai out there, it would be marginally faster off the line.
My Best 60' time with ramairbox is 1.91 seconds
Best 60' time with 7psi boost is 1.95 seconds. Im sure I could of matched or beat the ramairbox short time but didnt leave the 360/blower in long enough to find out. (finishing up 408)
 
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