[bsdsys_x86]

I was approached a couple days ago by two friends that really need their car detailed badly! The first one is a 2000 Chevy Cavalier and the second is a 1996 Saturn (not sure on model) and both are black. I am ordering my first set of proffesional detailing products in a couple days. Both cars have surface scratches, swirl marks, and water spots pretty badly. This is the process I was thinking about and was wondering what your opinions were before I purchase these products (about $300.00 worth)

Wash with dawn and remove the was on it now (if any)
Detail spray the whole car with Adams Detail Spray or Zainos Z6
Wash with Zaino Z7
Detail spray the whole car again with Adams or Zainos Z6
SSR2.5 the car with Porter Cable (PC Kit that comes with Pads from Sonus)
Detail Spray the whole car (Adams or Zaino)
SSR1 whole car
Detail Spray car again
Zaino Z2-Pro the whole car
Detail Spray
Zainos ZFX Wax (not sure if ZFX is another polish or wax)
Detail Spray
Then P21S Wax the car
Detail Spray once more

Any recommendations on products or procedures are totally recommended and appreciated. Want to do a great job for these guys so they will come back again and tell their friends of course

 

[VegasLightz]

Seems to me you're taking a lot of extra steps, simply wash, clay bar, polish, & wax. Now if the paint is real bad, I'd suggest make the polishing the most important part of the job. If you haven't watched our free instructional videos, I'd suggest doing that first, you may save yourself some time.

As far as which products to use, naturally I hope you use ours, but there is nothing at all wrong with the other products you have listed.

 

[DaytonHEMIRAM]

I'm not a professional but it is my understanding that you want to:

Wash car & Dry
Clay Bar car
Wash car & Dry
Polish
Wax
Follow up with Detail Spray

I will says that I'm pretty sure you don't need all the steps of the detail spray. I think your just wasting the spray. (IMHO)

You may want to make sure that Brad (VegasLightz) answers this since he is a Adams rep and is very helpful and knowledgable.

Dan

 

[DaytonHEMIRAM]

WOW! Weird timing.

Dan

 

[VegasLightz]

Yeah, strange!

 

[bsdsys_x86]

Wasn't going to re-do my original post but read it and it does sound a little over done. When I wrote it it sounded good but I agree, late at night, little too much detail spray usage. This is what I have planned.

* Wash the car (Just ordered Adams Car Wash - want to try it out)
* Dry it with Adams Microfiber Towel (Just ordered and want to try)
* Clay Bar with the clay I already used on mine (Mothers)
* Clean the paint with Klasse Cleaner/Protectant
* Use Adams SSR combined with Adams Revive
- Have ordered Poor Boys SSR2.5 and might use that if Adams don't work out.
* Seal it all in with Adams Butter Wax
- Have ordered P21S Carnuba Wax and some Zaino Products but will try Adams first and then give Zaino a try.

I also ordered the Sonus SFX Polishing Kit and will be using those pads with my new PC 7336. I have a quick question about the pads. When I go to use the Sonus SFX Polishing Pads should I place the pads over the backing plate that comes with them or should I put the backing plate on, then put the foam pad that come with the PC on next, and cover the foam pad with the Polishing Pads? Kinda confused about that and want to make sure I'm using the products correctly.

 

[MagnumXIII]

I think you will be doing a few extra steps, if I'm wrong, somebody else with more knowledge can correct me, hey I'm learning too!

1 Wash the car, you'll love the Adam's Car Wash Soap
2 Dry the car, again a waffle weave micro fiber towel is the cat's a$$
3 Clay Bar
4 I'd pass on the Klasse Cleaner/Protectant the Revive will clean the paint and if your mixing it with SSR, you are cleaning and polishing already.
5 I really like the Adam's Butter Wax and I think you will too.

I'm not sure about what backing plate you got, but most of the plates come with the "hook and loop" part of the velcro and the pads have the fuzzy side of the velcro already glued on them. Just stick the pad on the new plate and buff away. Forget about the foam pad that comes with the P/C, you probably won't ever use it, at least I never have.

 

[DaytonHEMIRAM]

I think you will be doing a few extra steps, if I'm wrong, somebody else with more knowledge can correct me, hey I'm learning too!

1 Wash the car, you'll love the Adam's Car Wash Soap
2 Dry the car, again a waffle weave micro fiber towel is the cat's a$$
3 Clay Bar
4 I'd pass on the Klasse Cleaner/Protectant the Revive will clean the paint and if your mixing it with SSR, you are cleaning and polishing already.
5 I really like the Adam's Butter Wax and I think you will too.

I'm not sure about what backing plate you got, but most of the plates come with the "hook and loop" part of the velcro and the pads have the fuzzy side of the velcro already glued on them. Just stick the pad on the new plate and buff away. Forget about the foam pad that comes with the P/C, you probably won't ever use it, at least I never have.

I agree you don't need to worry about the cleaner. The clay bar will clean the paint and the wax is the protectant. If this is your first detailing job I would try to keep it as simple as possible. You should definately watch all the instructional videos on the adams website.

Dan

 

[bsdsys_x86]

I think you will be doing a few extra steps, if I'm wrong, somebody else with more knowledge can correct me, hey I'm learning too!

1 Wash the car, you'll love the Adam's Car Wash Soap
2 Dry the car, again a waffle weave micro fiber towel is the cat's a$$
3 Clay Bar
4 I'd pass on the Klasse Cleaner/Protectant the Revive will clean the paint and if your mixing it with SSR, you are cleaning and polishing already.
5 I really like the Adam's Butter Wax and I think you will too.

I'm not sure about what backing plate you got, but most of the plates come with the "hook and loop" part of the velcro and the pads have the fuzzy side of the velcro already glued on them. Just stick the pad on the new plate and buff away. Forget about the foam pad that comes with the P/C, you probably won't ever use it, at least I never have.

I have the PC 7336 for one, and I ordered the Sonus SFX Polishing Pad Kit, http://store.yahoo.com/autopia/son-sfxpad-kit.html , Should I put the Backing Plate that comes with this kit on first, then put the Foam Pad that came with the PC on next, then put the Sonus Pads ontop of the foam pad that came with the PC for the detailing? If I can use the foam pad that came with the PC and just use a Sonus pad from this kit I see no reason to by say the polishing foam pad, and waxing foam pad from Adams. But I don't know. I might 'need' to. Just trying to clarify some things here. Just want to make sure I need or don't need to order the foam pads from Adams. Hope you understand what I mean now.

 

[VegasLightz]

Let me see if I can clarify this for you, according to your post, you've already ordered the Sonus Kit? If so, you do not need to order anything else as the kit containes a velcro backing plate that will bolt right into your P/C then the Sonus pads will adhere via the velcro that's attached to the pad. The foam pad and arbor that came with the P/C is not necassary to use anywhere. The foam pad that's adhered to the P/C arbor is of a lower quality compared to the Sonus pads.

This is off the Sonus site:
The Sonus 6" DAS FlexPlate replaces the standard Porter Cable polishing pad allowing pads to be changed quickly and easily. The Sonus DAS FlexPlate requires only 0.15 pounds per square inch of pad pressure to begin flexing, offer better comfort (less hopping) and impoved polishing safety. With its unique 30 degree beveled edge, fully-laminated Velcro backing, and advanced polyurethane foam construction, the Sonus DAS FlexPlate adds a new level of safety and quality. When used with Sonus SFX foam pads, the FlexPlate is perfectly balanced for use with the standard Porter Cable 7424.

Hope this helps you!
Brad

 

[jayincali]

WOW, lucky you asked for some advise, other wise you would have went through a gallon of detail spray.

When I do a complete detail, I do the following,

Wash
Clay
Wash
Swirl removal polish if needed
Non-cutting polish
Wax

Wash the car first, (no need to dry it before claying, just an added step) rince the bucket out, fill with soap and water, wash a panel at a time, then clay bar that section and rinse. Once you complete the entire car, rinse the bucket and add car wash soap and wash the car again, this will make sure that you all the clay and contaminate residue rinsed off, whats another five minutes added to a full detail, might as well do it right. The check the finish in the sunlight at different angles looking for the swirl marks. If you have medium to heavy swirls, I would use a medium cut pad with the SSR2.5 followed with Klasse or Revive then Adams Butter Wax. If the swirls are fine, I would go with a mix of Adams Revive Polish and Swirl Remover, or SSR1 on a polishing pad followed by the Butter Wax. Once you have completed these steps, then I would go over the finish with the Detail Spray. It will enhance the finish and also remove any wax residue you left behind and dust from the SSR polish. Thats it, you had so many steps in there, it would have taken you forever and a day to finish, hell it made me tired just reading it. I can complete a full detail with heavy swirls in about 2.5-3 hours start to finish. If your doing a full detail like this, you don't have to use detail spray for clay lube, soap and water works just as well, you will also save on product. Sorry for a long post, just thought I would add my 2 cents also.

 

[Mike5959]

With the poorboys ssr 2.5 you need to make sure you use a step down after that to finish it. Like the 1 or equivalent. The adams scratch out seemed to be mild enough that it doesn't need a second step to finish but when working with black that has swirls I like to start with the Poorboys ssr 2.0 to see what results I get then if its good go to either the adams or poorboys ssr 1. The 2.5 or 3 are for seriously affected finishes.

 

[jayincali]

With the poorboys ssr 2.5 you need to make sure you use a step down after that to finish it. Like the 1 or equivalent. The adams scratch out seemed to be mild enough that it doesn't need a second step to finish but when working with black that has swirls I like to start with the Poorboys ssr 2.0 to see what results I get then if its good go to either the adams or poorboys ssr 1. The 2.5 or 3 are for seriously affected finishes.

You don't need to step down after using an orange medium pad and SSR2.5, at least I never have. Never had any hazing, maring or swirls after using that combo. You will however need to step down if your using a yellow heavy cut pad and SSR2.5