[kmiller]

Looking for any suggestions to troubleshoot this problem.

When I get in my truck at the start of the day or after it's sat for a while, it seems as though the turbo won't kick in until after it's been driven a little ways. The motor is slow to gain RPM and just seems sluggish. It's been doing it for some time (even over the summer) and I've just put up with the inconvenience. Once it does "kick in" the turbo feels like normal. Recently replaced the lift pump and it didn't make any difference. Will the injector pump behave like this when going bad? It's gone on for about a year and I can't really say if it's gotten progressively worse. Will suspect injectors cause this until the motor is warm then just start working?

2002 Ram 3500 4x4

 

[Clunk]

Are you referring to an intermittent dead accelerator pedal problem?

 

[kmiller]

No, at least not the way I've seen it described throughout the forums. Once it "warms up" the problem is gone until it sits for a while (motor shut off).

I was kinda hoping to get a reply from you since you busted me on my engine starting issue. Had such a good laugh about your reply I had to share with the guys at the shop...you didn't give me much room to deny how the problem came about.

Anyway, I have to admit I still need to do a little due diligence before I deserve your help...I'm going to rig up a lift pump pressure gauge in the cab today so I can verify pressures at idle/WOT/and cruise.I'll post results after I test it.

By the way, do you see any problem with using this gauge setup with an added splice to lengthen? I bought one of these to test. It states "not for diesels" but I think it's referring to post injector pump usage where pressure limit would be exceeded.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92699

Thanks,
Kyle

 

[Clunk]

Yep, that and some greasegun line extensions w/1/8"NPT female fittings and Permatex non-hardening and a needle valve is what I used until I upgraded to a Vulcan Big Line kit...which one of the fittings has a 1/8"NPT hole for the gauge line like the greasegun line extensions on mine. The line w/the Schrader Valve fitting is now part of the regular pressure test kit.

Just for kicks, turn your keyswitch On-Off-On-Off-On then look at your odometer to see if there's any trouble codes now.

 

[kmiller]

I was reluctant to test for trouble codes cause I knew they would re-appear after I cleared them post lift pump change. Yikes! Sure enough, the PCU P1693, ECU P0216 have re-appeared.

P1693 DTC Detected in PCM/ECM or DTC Detected in ECM.
A Companion DTC was set in both the ECM and PCM.

P0216 Fuel Injection Pump Timing Failure.
High fuel supply restriction, low fuel pressure or possible
wrong or incorrectly installed pump keyway.

I need to get the gauge hooked up so I can see better whats going on and when. Got sidetracked today but should have some numbers tomorrow.

I did have an interesting theory volleyed from "outside the box" though. One of my associates asked about a possible stuck thermostat. Free flowing coolant would explain why even during summer it takes some time to warm up, and tonight, was run idled in the parking lot for about 20-30min for temp to reach 165-170 deg. Haven't had time to investigate this either. Don't know about you, but, I'm pulling for the defective thermostat instead of defective pump(s). I wish! :eshooter:

Thanks,
Kyle

 

[Clunk]

I've seen some good lift pump prices on eBay lately.

 

[kmiller]

I just checked those ebay prices. Not as bad as I expected, but...you see, I have a drilling business and therefore hovering somewhere around broke to poverty stricken.

I did finish putting the gauge hose assembly together last night and should have some pressure measurements later this morning.

Regards,
Kyle

 

[Clunk]

If you have any racecar pals, maybe you can work a deal on a Holley Blue or Black pump...you need at least 10psi.

 

[kmiller]

Hey Clunk,

I've had a couple days now to test and verify my pump pressures. The good/bad news is that the measurements appear to be in the good range (~15psi idle, ~5-7psi WOT and ~12psi cruise). Is the injector pump the only other reasonable cause of problem or is there some other potential cause I should look at? Also, I've seen rebuild kits sold for these injector pumps. Is this a good way to go provided it is installed and tested at a shop with the required test/calibration equipment or go directly through some OEM certified remanufacturer? Don't really have much confidence in a part pull from a scrap yard.

I've seen where you purchased the aftermarket pump and relocated back by the fuel tank. What's the benefit of relocating and assuming my lift pump is functioning correctly, would you suggest relocating mine in like fashion?

I really appreciate all your advice and help and hope I'm not wearing you out, but, I am new to this. Would you believe that just a couple years ago I wouldn't have even known that diesel motors don't even use spark plugs.

Thanks,
Kyle

 

[Clunk]

Sorry for being missing, just kinda busy the last coupla days.
You might get the computer scanned then reset the trouble codes then see if they return in a few days.
When mine lets go, I'll get mine from a local certified rebuilder.
I relocated my lift pump so it would be gravity fed and use all it's energy pushing fuel to my filter then injector pump. Don't have to worry about an o-ring seal allowing air to be pulled into the fuel line also. It's been said that engine vibrations might cause problems. It'll be easy to change when it lets go too.

 

[kmiller]

Good to see ya back. I certainly understand how everything seems to hit at once and you spend the next several days working through it.

I do actually have an interesting development. As mentioned previously, I had a friend ask about the thermostat possibly being stuck open therefore causing slow warm up. I decided to try plugging in the heater overnight. The next morning I started the motor, let it warm up for a short time (~1 min) and the problem was gone. Since this issue has persisted even through the summer, the thermostat does not seem to be the root cause. However, it does appear to be isolated to temperature (block, oil, water..?).

I guess if the truck wouldn't run at all, it would have gone to the shop along time ago, but, since it's merely a nuisance, I've held held out. Plus, everyday the issue continues, I find myself doing more research and learning along the way.