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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I took a few pictures to help anyone else out that may be considering install the EGR baffle. The baffle is designed to reduce the amount of exhaust dumped back into the intake manifold and get rid of the EGR noise that people are hearing after they install a CAI.


You're going to need three things for this install:
8mm socket and wrench
2x EGR gaskets PN# 5277928 (you can pick this up at the dealership, i got both of mine for $7.)
EGR Baffle from www.3rdstrike.biz (Price is now $14) link here

The baffles look like this:


The gaskets you need are about the same size, but with a bigger hole in the middle. Remember to get 2!


The EGR valve and housing are mounted away from the intake, and a heat shielded line runs to your intake manifold. To give you some perspective the EGR is highlighted in red.


When installing you only need to remove two 8mm bolts from the line running to the intake manifold. You don't need to remove the entire thing, just this side attached to the EGR will be fine. This picture shows the bolts, and the baffle installed.


When you install make sure to wipe down the baffle with a cloth and make sure its clean. Then place a gasket on both sides of the baffle, and just bolt it back to the EGR.


After you cycle the engine and it cools down, recheck those bolts and make sure they're tight.


Some people have claimed that this was the best $20 they spent on their truck, for others it throws a code. I haven't tried it out yet as of writing this, but I will reply back when I do. Hope this helps.
 

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MrDestinE
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I would really like to see those pix... sounds interesting..

TJ
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well damn. working on fixing the images. give me a few min.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Fixed em. Sorry.
 

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The EGR baffle is a bad idea because normally when EGR gases are introduced into combustion they slow the burn rate of the air/fuel mixture way down which requires the spark advance to be increased significantly. When the EGR baffle is installed the EGR valve and the engine do not know that the actual flow of EGR gases have been reduced, so the result is way to much spark advance for a given engine speed and load.

What most people who are not familiar with mapping a spark advance surface for a modern fuel injected engine do not realize is that for every engine speed and load there is a optimum spark advance setting which is called MBT (minimum spark advance for best torque.) If the spark advance is advanced beyond MBT (optimum spark advance) the engines torque output is reduced. So in short running too much spark advance is just as bad as running too little spark advance.

The other thing that needs to be understood is that it is possible to be way over spark advanced with no signs of spark knock or detonation. Although this is usually only at part throttle it is also possible at WOT when using high octane fuel because as you advance past MBT (optimum) spark advance the engine's torque is reduced which lowers cylinder pressures which decrease the chance for spark knock or detonation.
 

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ok dodge3471...
but what if you did this in a controlled environment (ie dyno) and monitored a/f and kr and assuming everything was ok could you then proceed with running it?
 

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004Hemi said:
ok dodge3471...
but what if you did this in a controlled environment (ie dyno) and monitored a/f and kr and assuming everything was ok could you then proceed with running it?
I'm not sure what you mean by "everything was ok". AFR is really not a concern since EGR is most commonly used at part throttle during closed loop fueling (stoichiometric or 14.7:1 AFR.) The engine O2 (oxygen) sensors will maintain the correct AFR during part throttle with or without EGR. A engine can also be way over spark advanced at part throttle and even WOT and never spark knock or detonate but, the torque and HP output will be reduced when the spark advance is increased beyond the optimum spark advance setting. At certain engine speeds and loads there is up to 20 degrees of additional spark advance for EGR. The engine controller nor the EGR valve will know that the EGR gas concentrations in the combustion chambers are far less due to the EGR restrictor plate being installed. The additional spark advance is still added even thou there is no EGR gas present. For instance at 2000 RPM part throttle at 50 kPa of MAP (manifold absolute pressure, metric for engine vacuum) optimum spark advance without EGR is 26.0 degrees. The EGR surface adds 15.5 degrees of spark advance to the 26.0 degrees of base timing for 41.5 degrees of total ignition timing spark advance assuming that EGR gases are present. There is nothing good about being over spark advanced by 15.5 degrees.
 

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Had 392.. Now.. LS2 GTO!!
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I wish i could just turn my erg off!!!! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
dodge3471 may i ask how you know all this? I read another post before that sounded like something you pasted out of a manual. But I'm fairly convinced you know what the hell you're talking about now. :)
 

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5 Years... 6 Dodges
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Engineers have a funny way of being able to do that... especially Dodge ones. ;)
 

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Hemi 4x4/Challenger T/A
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If that's the case, what would you suggest we do about the racket the EGR makes when using a CAI, dodge3471?
 

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moparedtn said:
If that's the case, what would you suggest we do about the racket the EGR makes when using a CAI, dodge3471?
I'm not sure that I have heard the noise that has been associated with the EGR system but, I have suffered some hearing loss over the last 15-20 years of hot rodding, engine development, and engine dynamometer testing. If you have the noise disconnecting the EGR valve's electrical connector is your best bet. This will set a CEL but as part of the OBD2 system the PCM will recognize that the valve is "not working correctly" because it is disconnected and the additional EGR spark advance will not be added by the PCM.

The disadvantages of disconnecting the EGR system are:

1. Lower fuel economy (about 3% less.)
2. The constant CEL unless you have a custom tune with the EGR turned off.

The advantages of disconnecting the EGR system are:
1. No EGR noise with a CAI, if you currently have noise.
2. Better throttle response from eliminating hot exhaust gas in the intake manifold.
 

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Shittier fuel economy . . . but better throttle response . . .

Sounds like something you might want to do at the track.
 

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Had 392.. Now.. LS2 GTO!!
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i still get very good milage(18-19 doing 75-80) my egr is turned off
 

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dodge3471 said:
I'm not sure that I have heard the noise that has been associated with the EGR system but, I have suffered some hearing loss over the last 15-20 years of hot rodding, engine development, and engine dynamometer testing. If you have the noise disconnecting the EGR valve's electrical connector is your best bet. This will set a CEL but as part of the OBD2 system the PCM will recognize that the valve is "not working correctly" because it is disconnected and the additional EGR spark advance will not be added by the PCM.

The disadvantages of disconnecting the EGR system are:

1. Lower fuel economy (about 3% less.)
2. The constant CEL unless you have a custom tune with the EGR turned off.

The advantages of disconnecting the EGR system are:
1. No EGR noise with a CAI, if you currently have noise.
2. Better throttle response from eliminating hot exhaust gas in the intake manifold.

Ok I know this a old thread but i am getting tired of hearing that egr noise or least that is what i think it is.

Anyway to disconnect to i just unplug the 6 wire plug that is pictured above. If I do this is the problem I may cuase is just a CEL or what?

Thanks in advance.
 

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What does the egr noise sound like?
 
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