DodgeTalk Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am thinking of buying the Edelbrock 500 CFM carb for my truck and I was just wondering if I do, will I be able to hook up my accelerator cable, transmission kick down and cruise control cable directly, or will I need to buy some other additional linkage pieces for that? I don't want to have to start fabricating a bunch of linkage pieces to get everything working correctly. If someone has experience with this and knows what parts I will need, if any, I would appreciate your advice. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
608 Posts
D-bug,

E-brock sells the pieces which you will need to convert their Chevy lever to be compatible with a Mopar cable.

I don't know if I would recommend 500 CFM version, however; 600-650 would be preferrable for a 318 (IMHO). 500 CFMs are typically used on 4- and 6-cylinder engines, or very tiny V-8s of well under 300 CID. The E-brock 600 is factory-jetted for (predictably) a Chevy 350 and should work just fine with an engine of 32 fewer cubes. If it does run a bit rich, alternate jets and metering rods are available from Edelbrock.

I suggest that you visit their website and get a look at their adapters and re-jetting parts. Also, they have a GREAT tech guy at the toll-free number. Ask for "Ron" after you push the button prompt for "carb tech"; he has the E-brock carb 411 down pat.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Jeff, once again I thank you. Your knowledge and advice are much appreciated. I just went to their web site and I like their 600 CFM electric choke carb, I think it was the 1406 model. Do you think this would be a good choice? I think the adapter plate that is currently on my truck for the AFB would also work for the Edelbrock wouldn't it? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
608 Posts
D-bug,

Yes, I think the 1406 would indeed be an excellent choice.

Now, about that intake adapter: what sort of intake do you have which requires a square-flange 4-bbl carb to be "adapted"? If it is a spread-bore intake (for a Q-Jet or a T-Quad), then yes, I think it will do fine provided that you use compatible gaskets both top and bottom.

However, if the manifold is a 2-bbl intake, please don't waste your time or cash on a 4-bbl carb. You will get no more from it than a 2-bbl.

Why, then, do they make such 2-bbl-to-4-bbl adapters? Test purposes for those who need to run a 4-bbl carb on their 2-bbl truck to check out the basic functions (as I must, upon occasion); that's all the they are good for, as far as I am concerned . . .

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The manifold is a 4 bbl manifold that had a Rochester Quadrajet on it. It now has a 4 bbl Carter AFB sitting on it with an adapter plate between the manifold and the carb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,399 Posts
moe in wichita ks
i have not done a swap like yours, but there are some basics that fit most afb/e-brok apps.
the cable/linkage must not be in a bind, and must open the carb all the way with out sticking open. DO NOT SHORT CUT THESE TWO THINGS. do NOT use hose to go from fuel pump to carb, use the right size steel bake line, hose only at filter, and keep it as short as can. this is a SAFETY ITEM, you dont want it to look like a chevy do you? as far as jetting on the front jets/ rods go, dont change rods and jets at the same time. cause you cant guess at what the change is. change jets OR rods. also most e-brok carbs have rods that have to much size differance between cruise step and power step, in other words start out by changeing the rod to one that has the smallest step difference between cruise and power. this is my short instruction set, i have a longer ins set that shows how to change rods and jets and know how much you changed it. but its to long to post here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
608 Posts
I "second" Moe's suggestions.

His comments on fuel hose remind me: wherever you must use hose as opposed to steel line, use only fuel hose designed for fuel injection applications. The old-fashioned hose which the auto parts store will sell you for carbureted engines will not handle the chemicals in the modern gasoline! They will deteriorate and the hose will either suck shut (on the vacuum side of the pump) or spray gasoline like a garden sprinkler on the pressure side!

Buy the "good stuff" from NAPA or the Chrysler dealer. It costs about $4.00/foot, but how much do you really need? It's worth it.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,399 Posts
moe in wichita ks
1/4 to 1/2 sae j30r7 has a burst psi of 175, temp rating up to 250 f, and if it meets j30r7 it is rated for vaccum. i wouldnt go more than 40-50 psi use for carbuators not for fuel injection. fuel injection hose sae j30r9 dont know presures but will be higher than j30r7
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
608 Posts
The manifold is a 4 bbl manifold that had a Rochester Quadrajet on it. It now has a 4 bbl Carter AFB sitting on it with an adapter plate between the manifold and the carb.
D-bug,

With a square-flange adapter, that'll work!

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
608 Posts
moe in wichita ks
1/4 to 1/2 sae j30r7 has a burst psi of 175, temp rating up to 250 f, and if it meets j30r7 it is rated for vaccum. i wouldnt go more than 40-50 psi use for carbuators not for fuel injection. fuel injection hose sae j30r9 dont know presures but will be higher than j30r7
Moe,

Going from memory, SAE 30R9 is rated at around 60 PSI operating pressure when used in a fuel injection system (I think).

However, the purpose of using it on carbureted vehicles has nothing to do with its pressure rating (obviously). Rather, it is because 30R9 has a fluoro-elastomer liner which makes it compatible with all modern pump gas and its additives, unlike 30R7.

Before I was aware of this, I installed some R7 on the pressure side of the pump (at the fuel filter connection) in my Jeep Grand Wagoneer. This would have been in about February of '96. By July of '97, that short length of hose was spraying like a garden sprinkler -- all over a hot engine! I have never used another piece of R7 on a vehicle since.

This squares with a report I subsequently read which states that R7 has a maximum field life expectancy of about 18 months when placed in contact with modern gas. Apparently, it has an organic or semi-organic core which simply can't stand up to the ethanol, benzene and whatever else they put into the witch's brew that we call modern gasoline.

But don’t take my word for it. Do a little research and I believe that you will find a consensus regarding this issue within the collector vehicle community.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,399 Posts
moe in wichita ks
well you are right i didnt do much research i just punched in fuel hose and retyped the few specs i found on the first site. i didnt check compatably. i thought benzene was not use any where, anymore. i was not trying to say use r7 on fuel injection. i should have done more research. but anyone can do the same or better research than i can. i was trying to point out safety issues
 

·
Mopar Madness - Get it...
Joined
·
4,032 Posts
So fins ..... Now ya got me worried (Dammit)

I replaced, about a year and a half ago, all the rubber hose in my rig... Dual tanks and all that, so there was a bit of hose involved. 5-6 feet with the aftermarket tank.. I did buy the premium 'Gates' hose though. So, are you telling me, it's going to rot apart? Exactly what chemicals in the gas are you speaking of? Ethanol? Being at it seems there seems to be 10% of this in most gasoline these days, wouldn't a 'quality' regular hose hold up? What other bizarre chemicals do I need to loose sleep over now? Should I be fabbing steel line to replace the hose (The vast bulk of it) for my 2nd tank? :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,399 Posts
moe in wichita ks
keep the hose you have, just check it every few months. keep a close watch on the hose that is on suction side of the fuel pump, if the hose goes bad the pump will pull air before it will pull fuel, this is true of any pump. i know nothing about chemicals , just do your own research on the internet, start by finding specs of SAE hoses. i worked in hydraulics years ago and we had compatible charts, some chemicals will eat up certin hoses, but my guess is you will be ok.
 

·
Mopar Madness - Get it...
Joined
·
4,032 Posts
moe in wichita ks
keep the hose you have, just check it every few months. keep a close watch on the hose that is on suction side of the fuel pump, if the hose goes bad the pump will pull air before it will pull fuel, this is true of any pump. i know nothing about chemicals , just do your own research on the internet, start by finding specs of SAE hoses. i worked in hydraulics years ago and we had compatible charts, some chemicals will eat up certin hoses, but my guess is you will be ok.
Well, I'm HOPING I'll be OK... I've got an electric pump/tank selector valve, that is frame mounted about 1/2 way between the rear wheel well and the front of the bed. Since the pump is about the same level as the bottom of either tank, hopefully there should be some sort of siphon action and not a whole bunch suction on either line (Although I know there will be some)..

I've got two fuel lines (Each tank) going through in-line filters in each ... to the tank selector switch (Electrically operated solenoid switch) ... To the fuel pump ... Up through the factory fuel line (Mostly steel line) through yet another in-line filter (Factory location where the mechanical pump would have been) up through the rest of the steel line to the carb.

I've pretty much considered that I've 'protected' myself six-ways-to-Sunday, but now ya got me a tad worried. I hope I don't find out that 'premium' Gates fuel line is also 'Made In China' .....
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,469 Posts
there is not much if any difference between an Eddy 1406 and that Carter you have now; Tuned correctly you will not gain a thing with an Eddy vs that Carter. that said I have 2 AFBs here (9635 and 9636) as well as a 500 CFM #9511, I'm about to put teh 500 onto my 318; in a truck it will be plenty; about double what a typical 318 spec 2 barrel will provide maxed out. if you were wanting high revving race results I'd go with the 600/625; Why Carter rated them "625" while Eddy rated them at "600" when Eddy bought out Carter and went off all their drawings and plans to reproduce the same carb with an Eddy label instead of a Carter is beyond me; not taht 25CFM amounts to a hill of beans; Also it don't matter if you put a Dominator on there; the engine will only consume as much air as it is able; but the smaller carb will mean better throttle response.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top