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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
2 Ga. Negative Battery Terminal to Drivers Side Fender

4 Ga. Drivers Side Fender to Driver Side Head

4 Ga. Driver Side Head to Passengers Side Head

4 Ga. Drivers Side Head to Alternator Negative

4 Ga. Passenger Side Head to Passengers Side Fender

Seems simple enough!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thats the same thing as a big three upgrade, just use 0 gauge amp wire
Very similar.

But the big 3 is a little different.

1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis.

The big three is to give more power to push a amp or something like that.

This is more to reduce the resistance for the ground path between engine components and the battery. Not power or cleaner power.
 

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Admin - David Mack
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There was clear blue cable kit that does the same thing that was on the DT site a few years ago. What ever happen to that kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am planning on doing this tomorrow on my truck. As I am having ground interference with my Zt-2.
 

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Hmm, this is an interesting mod for any vehicle basically. It seems logical, and the factory ground cables/ribbon are junk. I'm gonna try this on my truck, my father should have some cable laying around perfect for the job. Hopefully it might help cut down the sporadic electrical gremlins.
 

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I am planning on doing this tomorrow on my truck. As I am having ground interference with my Zt-2.
Keep us posted and def take plenty of pictures. This is a mod id like to do as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Will do guys! Lookin were I am going to get the cable and terminals right now.
 

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Admin - David Mack
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If you have the tools and terminals, I'd think welding cables would work very well. That way you could make them to the lengths you want and run them were they look best.

:imo
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I found some cable at O'Reilly's sold in foot lengths and withstands 230 degree's. Just not sure if that is enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you have the tools and terminals, I'd think welding cables would work very well. That way you could make them to the lengths you want and run them were they look best.

:imo
Will look into that.
 

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Ramistered User
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I'll be watching, be sure to post up results.
 

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Inertia ROCKS!!!!
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The trucks grounding system seems a lot better then the cars. You have a big ground wire from the battery to the block below the drivers head, that same ground from the battery also goes to the frame. Then the ground strap that goes from the cab to the back of each head. Also there was something about the strap style ground was a much better ground then a wire or cable, something the cars don't have at all.
 

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Good find Jay.Curious to hear what your result's are.
 

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The White Collar Redneck
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I've owned quite a few retired police cars, and they are always grounded well.

Body to frame in multiple spots, the hood/ trunk are grounded to the rest of the body, etc.

Must be for their radios.

When I installed the LC-1 and XD-16 in my truck, they made it very clear to ground everything to the block, in the same spot. Not doing so could have resulted in inaccurate results. I never had any issues, but I think the ZT-2 install is more involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Good find Jay.Curious to hear what your result's are.
Still looking for the cheapest deal. Looks like it will cost more then I thought for everything. But still plan on gettin it done soon.

I've owned quite a few retired police cars, and they are always grounded well.

Body to frame in multiple spots, the hood/ trunk are grounded to the rest of the body, etc.

Must be for their radios.

When I installed the LC-1 and XD-16 in my truck, they made it very clear to ground everything to the block, in the same spot. Not doing so could have resulted in inaccurate results. I never had any issues, but I think the ZT-2 install is more involved.
The Zt-2 is much more involved, and more fickle too.
 

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The Dynamic Ground kits for Rams and Jeeps cost less than for the Lx. The Lx require battery and tranny cables. The DGS kits have multi strand tinned cable, tinned lugs, SS bolts for the heads and SS washers to isolate the lugs from the heads. These kits cost about $80.00 for the 5.7 and 6.1 Hemi and $60.00 for the 3.7L. Plus $5.00 shipping. Tests on the Lx showed better than 10 HP and 2 to 3 MPG gains.

It takes about 30 minutes to install.

The same gains were repeated on F150's and 5.7 Tundras as well

All the parts were made and assembled in the USA! :gr_patrio
Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the info man. This is put on hold for now. I did a launch from the dig in my truck and cracked my drivers side exhaust pipe. Guess I have some TQ going on lol.
 

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Ouch, hope you get your exhaust fixed!

Over in Lx land, when we get a GOOD launch we break axles and twist drive shafts. Things that cost a tow and more $$ to fix!

All part of the fun LOL
 
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