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Discussion Starter #1
Uuuuuuugggghhhh,
Ok, today I almost rear ended a Mercedes. I mean it was inches!! This is like the 3rd time since getting it that i've just barely stayed out of a wreck. My 98 chevy astro blows the D away on braking so I know i'm not tailgating or anything... Just got this 2002 SRX 4x4 and absolutely love it but the BRAKES REALLY SUCKS. Is this normal? I've been a shadetree mechanic for 25 years and nothing looks out of the norm. Is there anything I can do mechanically? Seems like there is a ton of brake dust that builds up on the front rims as soon as I clean them. I pulled the rear wheels off to make sure the shoes were engaging and they were.

Any idea's guys???? Help!!!
 

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WORLD'S GREATEST TRUCK
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It's the abs kicking in, probably cause the rt/s' can't hold the road. It's happened to me twice what you describe, (WTF?) Search for 'disable abs' or similar. They're great wet and dry, it's loose stuff they can't take. I'm driving my boss' 2000 Ram van 5.2L to work now, brakes in the old vans are the best. You push it and the sucker stops.
 

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I would try some better than stock pads. Raybestos Brute Stop come to mind. They are long lasting and really improved the braking in my Ram. Mopar pads suck. These will make a big difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No go on abs disable

Hey, thanks for the info. I ran right out and pulled the fuse on abs. Took it out for a test drive and it seemed like the brakes were not working at all. Then the brake light went on too, so I had to put the fuse back in.

:(
 

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Durango brakes do suck. This is a often posted topic. The typical solution is new rotors and pads. The powerstop rotor and hawk pad combo seems to be the most popular solution. Do some searching and you will find tons of threads on this topic.
 

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Keystoner
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D's right. they do suck, but you can upgrade. Hawk pads are the best. I went with roto-tech slotted/drilled rotors and haven't had a problem since. try change'n your your brake fluid also (Dot 5).
 

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Pirate
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if you are kicking on the abs then pads and rotors won't do anything since obviously they have enough bite to lock up a wheel. get stickier tires.
 

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Agreed.

I am always puzzled why people blame ABS for braking problems.

ABS is an excellent system when it is working properly. The only way that ABS would negatively effect braking is if you are braking in deep gravel on a dirt road (where it gets incorrectly fooled into kicking in), or if it were not working at all.
 

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2000 Durango R/T
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Get new pads and rotors (as other suggested). Also, ceramic pads (e.g., Hawk) will SIGNIFICANTLY cut back on the brake dust you mentioned.
 

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King,

You really need a new Avatar. Maybe you could have one of you drinking beer ;)
 

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2000 Durango R/T
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I know I need a new one - I've just been so busy lately I haven't really had a chance to find a fitting picture.

I'll take your suggestion into consideration, although I should probably do some photoshopping and replace the beer can with a coke can - you know, to stay PC ;)
 

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When the drums were off did you adjust them up some? That will make a big difference if the rears are out of adjustment. I know they all have so called "automatic" adjustors but they forgot to implement the "automatic" portion and we are left with just adjustors that sorda kinda but not really work ;)

Another thing to consider is what were you driving prior to the D. Mine is an '03 with rear discs and it stops good........for an suv. There is a huge difference in stopping it vs. our neon. It takes my wife a couple stops in the D before she stops scaring the bejesus out of me because she brakes so late, untill she gets adjusted to it from the neon which stops on a dime with good tires, rotors and ceramic pads. I would think the Astro is lighter and it definetly has less rolling mass/unsprung weight and would be somewhat easier to stop.

I would get the hawk pads and a good set of rotors, make sure your tires are good and adjust them rear brakes. That will help.






oh and if all else fails.....stay back an extra 20 feet or so :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Rear drums

Yes, it's almost like the rears are just not kicking in. Anyone have the proper way to manually adjust them or tighten them up?

Thanks
 

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Its about time to do my brakes, again. The rears were at about 60% last July when I had Midas do the fronts, so im sure their about toast. Now the problem is, the front ones arnt wearing right. They been squeeling like a pig a lot lately on and off so the other day I asked my cousin to check em out. He kneeled, reach through the wheel, and touched the pad and when WOW! He then had me do the same. The pads are wearing so out of normal that he said the rivets might be coming out of them. Its like flat on one part of the rotor and then it raises up about 1/4-1/2 from what it felt like on the other half. Now the problem is, will Midas honor their warranty which states the pads have to be worn down to a certain point to be replaced with only labor charged when the problem is the pads are coming apart? I doubt it. And just when I thought everything was good to go. If its not one thing, its another.

Also, I hear you on that break dust. The brake dust on mine builds up after a week or so so much the rims look dirty grey. Im seriously considering getting them all painted black til I get new rims possibly in december.

Side Note:

Rock: Still no inserts....I will never ever ever recommend or shop BangTime Kustoms again in my life. I emailed my credit card issuer today to ask the basics on what can be done to get a refund since they never answer their phone, my emails and are basically just ignoring me. At this point, I could care less about the inserts, I want my money back!

Later
Big John
 

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WORLD'S GREATEST TRUCK
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2002, here's method with the adjuster tool (large flat screwdriver works also.) If you have a brake gauge, you'd pull the drums and adjust them that way (seems like more work but you should check brake assy anyway. When I do rears (it's been a long time), I replace the shoes then adjust until I cant turn the drum freely, back off a little and put the wheels back on. Then I do the automatic adjusters procedure.
 

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While the drums are off grind off the little rust ridge that develops on the inside of the drum. It will make your life much easier getting them adjusted right. There is an access hole about 1/4 inch by 1inch on the back of the drum. Insert screwdriver/ adjustor tool and turn the star wheel on the adjustor (it should turn easier one way vs the other....to snug them up go in the easier direction...to loosen you may have to use another scew driver to push the lever off the star wheel). You want the drum to be snug. With the wheel on you should feel some drag when turning the wheel. It should Not make more than about 1/2 turn(the wheel) when trying to spin it. On of the most important things to remember is to make sure both sides are about the same otherwise you may get a pull when braking.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Drango brakes suck (update)

Just an update on my brake situation. My D was still under a warrenty so I took it in and sure enough, they replaced both of the rear cylinders as well as the brake line to the rear. Wow, what a difference that made. I can stop on a dime now.
 

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Our Hawk brake pads arrived on Friday and the new Power Stop rotors arrived today. We'll install them on Thursday and let you guys know how well they work. They do require a 200-500 mile break in period which won't take long at all.
 
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