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Discussion Starter #1
Well i heard a noise in the rear dif or my truck the other day and decided to dig a little deeper. I pulled the cover and drained the fluid and it looked like someone dumped glitter in it. After draining was complete i found 2 pieces of metal in the bottom of the houseing, one appears to be a retainer for the limited slip and im not sure what the other is. Has anybody ever rebuilt one of these difs? If so do I need that stupid case spreader tool like what is used on the front?
 

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Chrysler faithful
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Yep.
 

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work in progress
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you do not need a case spreader for the rear axle it uses screw in adjusters to adjust backlash not shims you just back out the adjusters remove the bolts and out it comes poof
 

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According to the manual, the only rear axle that doesn't need a case spreader is the corporate 9.25", which I don't think was used on 4X4 models. My Dana 70 needs a spreader as do the 60 and 80.
 

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Transmission Man!
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slowjoe98's '98 should have a 9 1/4.
 

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Well, there ya go!:D
 

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all the 1500 trucks use the 9.25 rear axle the dana axles are in the 2500 and up trucks
 

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all the 1500 trucks use the 9.25 rear axle the dana axles are in the 2500 and up trucks
Is that true for Off Road models, as well?
 

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im pretty sure the off road uses the 9.25 axle it just comes with lower gears from the factory 4.10 i believe where most everything else has the 3.55 gears not sure about the 3500 trucks
 

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I've got a Dana 60/front 70/rear with 4.10 gears on my 2500. I'm good.:rck:
 

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Welcome to Dodge Talk! As others have said you dont need the spreader it falls out, hopefully not on the floor. They're fairly easy to rebuild if you have the right tools. Will need a deflection gauge, a torque wrench, and a really big torque wrench for the pinion nut. Also a rotating torque gauge, for the bearing pre-load. Also make sure you replace all the bearings and races, and crush sleeve, also will need a new pinion seal. Any questions feel free to ask. Everyone here is happy to help.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks to all of you for your input. I dont know the ring size but i know i 393 rear gears. I found the other day 2 pieces of metal in the diff, one apears to be a retainer for the limited slip and not quite sure about the other. However the washer under the left spider looks like it is broke. Im goin to take it apart monday and find out for sure what is wrong. Thanks again for the help will post more when i find the problem
 

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Hey SlowJoe98 what did you find when you took it apart. Inquiring minds would like to know? Was the washer under the left spider broken and did it trash anything else?
 

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Black Sunshine!
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Rebuild is easy as said before but in IMO skip rebuilding now is the time for new. Sounds like your alil hard on your LS diff and should look for a heavy duty LS or a all out locker. IMO again id go with an all out locker soooo much fun :D even more so with a manual tranny :drivingz:.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The washers under both gears were broke and i found no other damage. I orders the parts from a place called riverside gear and the kit i needed was 129.99 plus shipping. I was going to take pictures to post the progress of the overhaul but my camera wouldnt work. Overhaul was fairly easy just had a hard time getting the thrush washers under the spiders to take but eventually got them in. While i was there i also replace the axle seals since they were original. But over all things went well for the rebuild. Ill post pictures next week i get back from jamboree in the hills. Thanks to everyone for their input on what needed to be done.
 

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Black Sunshine!
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Good to hear there was minimal damage and that it was a rather easy fix
 

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id price the tools you'll need to buy and weigh that against the labor a shop would charge you to rebuild it and put in your new diff. 2 torque wrenches, carrier bearing tool (or a punch), dial indicator, huge cheater bar for the yoke, etc...

doing your first diff and getting it set right is a nervous experience. do you trust yourself to do it to the utmost accuracy or hope some repair guy doesn't slack on setting it right.

if you cant borrow a dial torque wrench for setting the pinion, you can get a cheaper in/lb beam type torque wrench for about $40. dial will cost you $150 easy. make sure the range is 0-60 in/lbs, NOT ft/lbs. make sure you read it accurately while turning the pinion

you will need a big torque wrench for the yoke, like one rated at 250 ft/lb. home depot sells a clicker that big pretty cheap, by Husky.
 

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I am trying to rebuild mine right now - how do you get the spacers that go in behind the (small idler) spider gears back in without destroying them? I just replaced all of my clutches. The old retaining plates were busted so it came apart easy - I am having trouble getting it back together though... I got it together, but without the spacers - I was hoping I could get them in by sliding them in behind the spiders once they were in place, but no dice. What is the best way to do this? This was the first axle rebuild for this truck (97 1500 4x4) with over 230,000 miles. Thanks in advance!
 

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Transmission Man!
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You have to compress the wavey washer springs wirth a tool.
 

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Is this something I could rent from the auto parts store? I was thinking that is what I needed to do - I have some 7/8" threaded rod and fender washers + nuts - would that be sufficient to compress the clutches if I can't find the proper tool? Thanks for the quick reply!
 
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