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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, here goes..

2003 Dodge Ram 1500 QC....Viper 5000

For some reason, the installer installed another double guard stinger shock sensor.....anyhow, I just hard mounted it, it was on a cluster of wires........also has a glass sensor, both are connected to the unit directly.....

I purchased a DEI 507T (Black) from e-bay (probably my first mistake) and have installed the wiring for it, but my alarm still bypasses it...not sure why either....

The installer was nice enough to leave the blue (H1/7 - Instant Trigger Input Trunk Input/Shunt, Zone 1) and orange (H1/12 - 500ma Ground When Armed Output) connectors accessible, probably for him in case I wanteed something added. I connected the orange wire from the sensor to the orange above, same with the blue ones, and the red connector went to the same connector that powers the alarm..... I have dips 1-3 set to ON, and 4 set to off...so that should mean 1 degree tilt, high motion sensitivity, and 10 second delay....but for some reason, when I arm my system, the trunk icon flashes....the blue LED flashes twice as slow, then after about 30 seconds everything is normal....I get in the bed of the truck and jump, and nothing happends as far as the alarm....I rock the truck side to side pretty hard (i'm a big guy, 5' 11" 280') and nothing.....still bypassed......

The thing that gets me is when I look at the picture of the dip switches, ON is UP, on the unit itself, ON is DOWN (towards the mounting brackets)....weird? or just me...?

As for the sensor itself, I'm mounting it behind the center dash, using 3M Mounting Tape (Grey 5lb) to the TOP of the clutter catcher but inside the dash....the part that you remove to get to the head unit, etc....

To connect the wires, I used some quick splice taps, the type where you run your main wire on the outside, insert your splice and crimp down, the blade comes down and makes contact with the wire....

This is probably more information than is necessary, but at least you can visualize everything i've done....just can't figure out why it's bypassing..

Thanks in advance!

Edit: The external shock and glass break sensors are connected to the unit directly, this new sensor will be connected all by itself to the above mentioned wires.....

Oh, also, if someone can take apart a true DEI 507T (black casing) and take a picture of the PC board, both sides, it'll help me determine if mine is a POS fraud.....that would be great..thanks again
 

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I will guess here, but I think your problem is "To connect the wires, I used some quick splice taps, the type where you run your main wire on the outside, insert your splice and crimp down, the blade comes down and makes contact with the wire"

Replace these with crimp connectors, or even better solder and shrink tube
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Chief Squatting Dog
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I am not sure if I follow how you mounted it so I will just say it needs to be mounted as horizontal as possible to the vehicles body.

With that said you need to get rid of those tap-ins. They are horrible for vehicle wiring as they actually cut past the insulation and into the wiring. You will have nothing but headaches.

Here are some quick tests that you can do to check all down the line to make sure everything is working.
Make sure to check your 12 volt power at all times on the 507 during this test and it is fused.
1. Take your blue lead which is the input neg (-) lead, from the alarm itself, have someone or you sit in the car, arm it, and then wait about 30 seconds. Now find a good ground and ground it to it. If the alarm triggers then the alarm is fine.

2. Hook your blue lead back up once you are sure it sets off the alarm. Now take your orange ground when armed output(-), from the 507, touch it to ground and arm the car within 5 seconds. wait about 30 seconds and tilt the sensor. See if it goes off.

3. If the sensor goes off hook everything back up and arm the car. tilt the sensor with all the wires on it, if it goes off, mount it somewhere else.

If it still doesn't go off take your orange lead from the 507 and ground it. Now tilt the sensor if it goes off you have either a bad connection on the orange lead going into the alarm or it is faulty. Hope this helps.
 

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Chief Squatting Dog
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Just wanted to know how this turned out ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry man, haven't had time...been busy over the weekend, but I hope to get to it this week...hopefully by wed. night or thursday night.....one question though....

The installer gave me an extra double guard shock sensor....so where should i mount it? the brain has one built in...I was thinking behind the rear seat (quad cab) or something like that
 

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Chief Squatting Dog
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So let me get this right? You already have 2 shock sensors on the truck and you want to add one more?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
no, the 5000 has one built in, but the guy installed a second one, he says he forgot it already had one...so it's mine now....it's disconnected because I wanted to see if that would help the alarm detect that other sensor...still haven't had time....maybe tomorrow or this weekend....

But I also want to relocate the 2nd shock sensor..
 

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sorry, missed the post of the connectors you used..............REPLACE them with one that work as I posted before........I have "fixed" more installs than you can imagine just by replacing that type of connector with good connectors or soldering and shrink tube........

The installer forgot it had a shock sensor.................sounds like you need to find a better installer IMHO
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
LOL, he's a good guy, I had 4 other installers look at it, they were surprised he took the time to do such a good job....aparently they just got the Viper 5000's in or it's a "new model" and he wasn't aware that they had a built in shock sensor...

When did the 5k come out anyway..?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, for real this time, I'm gonna work on this soon, by sunday I should do something..just no freakin time
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I fixed it....the Ground when Armed and Trigger had great connections....it was my 12v constant.......the quick tap didn't split the insulation on the sensor's wire...but did on the vehicle......

I bought some T-Taps to use instead.....and used 1 on that connection, works great!!

I figured all this out in 5 minutes with a multimeter doing continuity tests....damn I'm lazy!

Thanks again!
 
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