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Discussion Starter #1
I've got an '05 STX that came with the basic 4 speaker radio. A couple of years ago I upgraded to a Dual HD radio and all was great for about a year. Then my airbag light started coming on randomly. Dealer said it was from a code from the computer saying it could not communicate with the radio. No big deal, I can live with that.

Now, if I do not start my car for more than 18 hours or so, my battery is completely dead. Thought it was the battery, so I got a new battery. No dice.

I took the radio out for a few days and had no problems. So, I thought my CAN Bus adapter had gone bad. Bought a new one (Axxess XSVI-6502) and put everything back in. Well, this morning = dead battery.

Its like the retained accessory power does not cutoff after opening the door (even though the radio and all accessories all cut off).

Any ideas?
 

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I think Ram Man is on the right track, when the radio was installed was it a custom wiring hook up or was there a plug and play harness used?, most radios have two power supplies, one switched with the key and one constant...lets us know what you find
 

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Many with that particular brand of radio have a problem with the constant (memory) power draining the battery after a few years. The radio normally pulls mili amps but burns a circuit and starts to draw higher amps causing the battery to drain overnight. Sounds like you have the same issue. It can be fixed, but it is usually better to get a new radio. You can check to see if you have this issue by reading the amp draw on that wire (labeled constant or battery) while connected to the radio with the car off.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I yanked the radio out. Let the car sit for 36 hours and the battery was completely dead. Would not even turn over. So, it looks like I have a problem other than the radio.

How can I check to see if there is a draw on the battery. I think I remember reading something like I could disconnect the battery's negative wire and put a voltage meter from the negative wire to the negative terminal and start pulling fuses until there is nothing registered on the meter. Is that correct? If so, what should I have the meter set to?

Many thanks for any feedback.
 

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our cars have many devices that use power with the key off, the total draw should never exceed .035 of an amp. to do a proper "ignition off draw test" (IOD test), you first have to make sure the battery is fully charged, post voltage should be 12.8v to 13.0v, if higher after charging, turn headlights on for 10-15 sec, this will remove the higher reading, be for you begin the IOD test, set you multi meter to the highest amp,for most DVMs this will be 10 amp, make sure your test leads are in the ports for amps not volts, you will also need a jumper wire, like you said remove the negative terminal,with the meter turned off, install one test lead to the battery post and one to the terminal, colour will not matter, your ready will show (-) if backwards, now will all doors closed and key out of ignition, install the jumper between the terminal and post, this will allow any timed controllers to power down, wait 10-15 seconds, then remove jumper, turn meter on to highest amp setting, if everything is powered down, doors closed, etc., reading will be very small, i.e. .0001, move amp setting to the next lower position, number will get bigger, i.e. 0.011 what you are looking for is a reading between .005 to .035 amps, if your test shows high draw like 4.0amps on the 10 amp scale, you need to find the cause. you will need a second person for this( because you will be trapped in the car, right?), before disconnecting the battery, make show to roll down a window, you helper will thank you, under the hood you have a fuse box, in there are 3 IOD fuses, #30,38 and 44, pull one at a time while watching meter, one of these should drop the draw down to the .005 to .035 range, let me know which one has the high draw, and I can tell you the circuits it feeds so you can get this problem fixed. if you want to talk, send me you email address and I will send you my phone number....good luck...keep me posted
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The Steel Bolt,

That has to be the most awesomest reply ever in the history of message boards. Thank you so much for the detailed information. I will have some time next week to work on this. I will keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have no other aftermarket installs. Just the radio.

One other thing that might be related... The actuator on my sunroof died a while back. Dealer said it would be $600 to fix it and I hardly ever opened it (I'm bald headed and I get sunburned!) so I left it.. I wonder if that is somehow draining my battery. The instructions from Steel Bolt should prove that.

Thanks again for the replies and help!!!!
 

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set dial to 10A, red lead in top hole, black in bottom hole, once hooked up, open a door, int. lights will cause a draw about 1-3 amp....let me know
 
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