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Discussion Starter #1
01 dodge ram 1500 sport LS 5.9l.
I have a problem with it not getting to temp. 140 150 range. Kinda seams like coolent dont circulate, I replaced two themastats, temp Sensor on the housing, by passed the heater core. Then had it scanned all they said was my intake was running at 146f i believe that was high? .. But if I drive it around, it dont heat up at all. I can put my hand on the radiator cap after driving it. An shes cold. hoses are hot with pressure till it cools down. My over drive don't kick on.? Like my torque converter won't lock up in o.d. cause the pcm is saying it's cooled idk

I put a piece of cardbored in front of the radatior an temp comes up on dash. But still don't shift like it should. I took a look at the water pump an timing chain cover seams to be leaking at the top but I ain't sure. ? Clutch fan seam to have some play, like shaft is loose.
If anyone the knows the problem I would appreciate all the advice.
 

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Sure sounds like a stuck open stat (or motor would be overheating, not 146). ... What's the ambient? (98 FSM says PCM locks out OD when amb is -5f/-21C as read by battery temp sensor).
 

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Sure sounds like a stuck open stat (or motor would be overheating, not 146). ... What's the ambient? (98 FSM says PCM locks out OD when amb is -5f/-21C as read by battery temp sensor).
My intake was running 146. Witch is hot I believe cause coolent dont flow thru it.

An I bought a tested tube for coolent an balls dropped on tester haha but was told someone returned it. Cause them thru it was a battery tester..wow.

An I drained the coolent twice, an filled with 50/50.? No codes or engine light shows up either.
 

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My intake was running 146.

Witch is hot I believe cause coolent dont flow thru it. .
... What is 146*f; Intake Air Temo (IAT) reading? ... or Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) reading?

... There's a coolant crossover passage casted into the front of intake that connects to passages at the front of both heads (thermostat, CTS, main bypass and outlet barb for heater are all exposed to coolant in this passage).
 

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There's a coolant crossover passage casted into the front of intake that connects to passages at the front of both heads (thermostat, CTS, main bypass and outlet barb for heater are all exposed to coolant in this passage).
If you have air trapped in it can give you a lower reading(cts). Drill a small hole (1/8) through the flat part of the t stat, You wont have this problem ever again.
 

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Their is some kinda hole already in it, with a little brass tab thru the hole..?

It builds pressure but coolent dont get warm at all..?
 

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Their is some kinda hole already in it, with a little brass tab thru the hole..?

It builds pressure but coolent dont get warm at all..?
... "Brass tab" is a "jiggle pin" (aka jiggle valve) to bleed air.

... "Builds pressure but coolant does not get warm" may be cracked head or head gasket issue, but need more info.

... As asked earlier: where was the 146 taken from???
... To confirm coolant temp; could use an infa red temp gun aimed low down on the hose above the stat (engine fully warmed up at 1500 ish rpm and maybe a bit of cradboard to ensure stat is flowing).

... Does coolant reservoir rise and fall correctly/consistently?
 

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I took a look at the water pump an timing chain cover seams to be leaking at the top but I ain't sure. ?
you might have a slow leak which keeps you from building pressure.
and as mentioned the fan or thermal clutch seems to wiggle. it may be time for a new water pump.
can you barrow a pump pressure tester from a parts house/ pump up the rad and craw around looking for the leak while its cold and safe to feel around. check the dip stick to make sure the coolant isnt pouring into the oil pan.
:nerd
 

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if your not aware of it theres a coolant passage through the timing chain cover at top on both sides , at least there is on my 2000 5.9 gas magnum . and theres not much gasket between these passages and outer edge of timig cover causing the gaskets to wear then leak there . so point is if you end up doing water pump might want to plan on doing timing chain at same time . my mechanic friend didnt know of this coolant passage in timing cover when we replaced my water pump thinking that was the leak then found out afterward it was the timing chain gasket leaking
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Their is some kinda hole already in it, with a little brass tab thru the hole..?

It builds pressure but coolent dont get warm at all..?
... "Brass tab" is a "jiggle pin" (aka jiggle valve) to bleed air.

... "Builds pressure but coolant does not get warm" may be cracked head or head gasket issue, but need more info.

... As asked earlier: where was the 146 taken from???
... To confirm coolant temp; could use an infa red temp gun aimed low down on the hose above the stat (engine fully warmed up at 1500 ish rpm and maybe a bit of cradboard to ensure stat is flowing).

... Does coolant reservoir rise and fall correctly/consistently?

146 f was taking with a scanner on the intake of the motor. Engine does not raise temp on dash unless cardbored is in front of the radatior.? Like you said. An ideas tad high. Maybe. An I didn't notice it move the coolent res. But only had my eyes. Thanks for the help man
 

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146 f was taking with a scanner on the intake of the motor.

Engine does not raise temp on dash unless cardbored is in front of the radatior.? Like you said. An ideas tad high. Maybe. An I didn't notice it move the coolent res. But only had my eyes.
... For various reasons/ideas, read thread again: per earlier, 01 intake has 2 sensors that scanner will read, the CTS and IAT; 146 could easily be IAT reading, or CTS.

... Before starting engine in morning (fully cooled off), visually accurately note coolant level in reservoir, then when engine has fully warmed up look again (normally will rise a few inches, dependsssss), then before shutting off the still hot engine, look again (will probably be same ish); keep an eye on res for the next 10-15 minutes (level will normally rise another inch ish, dependsss).
..As cooling system fully cools off overnight it will suck coolant from reservoir to fully refill itself; unless amb changes a bunch, should be exactly the same every morning (or whenever its fully cooled off); this is basic/normal operation.
... The first two res levels are the ones to know/watch/check; before starting cold, and after it's fully warmed up (all you gotta do is open the hood and look at the right time/s; couldn't get any easier).

... When engine is cold stat will/should be closed: to check, remove rad cap then start, coolant level in rad may drop a hair, but should not be "flowing" at all.

Earlier was said oil smelled like gas; does oil or the filler cap etc look milky or white ish at all?

What's you clime/ambient temps??
 

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Kilroy
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you drained the coolant but did you actually back flush it?

mine was so bad it took 4 times to get it cleaned out as I don't
think PO ever had it properly flushed and as key said check for flow
in the radiator, make sure its circulating coolant

the only other thing I can think of

years ago I had a water pump let go but it didn't leak water
the impeller had loosened on the shaft and even though everything
seemed normal on the outside while it was circulating water the impeller
was not spinning as fast as the outside pulley ...

took a while to track it down and when I pulled the pump I held the outside
and with some force could move the impeller by hand,
 

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Discussion Starter #16
146 f was taking with a scanner on the intake of the motor.

Engine does not raise temp on dash unless cardbored is in front of the radatior.? Like you said. An ideas tad high. Maybe. An I didn't notice it move the coolent res. But only had my eyes.
... For various reasons/ideas, read thread again: per earlier, 01 intake has 2 sensors that scanner will read, the CTS and IAT; 146 could easily be IAT reading, or CTS.

... Before starting engine in morning (fully cooled off), visually accurately note coolant level in reservoir, then when engine has fully warmed up look again (normally will rise a few inches, dependsssss), then before shutting off the still hot engine, look again (will probably be same ish); keep an eye on res for the next 10-15 minutes (level will normally rise another inch ish, dependsss).
..As cooling system fully cools off overnight it will suck coolant from reservoir to fully refill itself; unless amb changes a bunch, should be exactly the same every morning (or whenever its fully cooled off); this is basic/normal operation.
... The first two res levels are the ones to know/watch/check; before starting cold, and after it's fully warmed up (all you gotta do is open the hood and look at the right time/s; couldn't get any easier).

... When engine is cold stat will/should be closed: to check, remove rad cap then start, coolant level in rad may drop a hair, but should not be "flowing" at all.

Earlier was said oil smelled like gas; does oil or the filler cap etc look milky or white ish at all?

What's you clime/ambient temps??

Coolent temp on gauge never reads passed 140 160. it's not getting to operateing temperature, cap does not show any sign of blown head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
you drained the coolant but did you actually back flush it?

mine was so bad it took 4 times to get it cleaned out as I don't
think PO ever had it properly flushed and as key said check for flow
in the radiator, make sure its circulating coolant

the only other thing I can think of

years ago I had a water pump let go but it didn't leak water
the impeller had loosened on the shaft and even though everything
seemed normal on the outside while it was circulating water the impeller
was not spinning as fast as the outside pulley ...

took a while to track it down and when I pulled the pump I held the outside
and with some force could move the impeller by hand,
I didn't back flush it. Not that great at these things just so broke I can't take it in. I took the water pump off an looks like a sandblaster hit it a few times.. but impellers are spinning just fine. Didn't try and break it loose though
 

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Kilroy
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you don't say where you live but you can back flush it yourself
unless in a frigid location and that's the first place to start now
given all of the work you have done to it..

also make your you have your serpentine belt routed correctly
don't know if its possible on the 5.9/5.2s but these belts sure are
long and if you route the belt wrong it may be possible to turn the
water pump in the opposite direction, seen this happen on a GM
at the auto parts store about 15 years ago..
 
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