clay bar rocks
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Grinner I did it too with Zaino....I had thousands of metal shards from the railway shipping the car. They had oxidized and turned red. Most of them were, well guess where, thats right the back liftgate and bumper. The claybar took them out with no problem and when I was done with the whole car, waxed and enhanced, I couldn't lean on it without sliding off...has a shine now that's real deep and mine is white.
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Looks GREAT.grinner said:
I have a Magnesium RT and have been thinking of getting it detailed. I have found a place here to get a clay bar from but really don't know the first thing about doing it. I would think that I am not the only one that doesn't know.. ANy good resources on properly doing this without ruining the finish? (I read somewhere that it is possible to ruin the clearcoat if you aren't careful)
Really love the look of the scoop on your car too. That may be something I need to consider at some point. Matching the paint on the magnesium may be really tough though..
Showed this pic to my wife and told her I needed to get a clay bar. She said "clay what? you need to sell your car and buy some piece of shit like your last car that you don't have to be f***ing with all the time". Guess I've about worn out the new car grace period. Man, and I even waxed her minivan.
wow thats a drag.
go out and buy her somthing is right... like a magnum RT.
Worked for me. I never hear a single nagative thang with modding my ride.
Matter of fact, she uses me as a guinnie pig. If she digs the mod I do that week, she does it on hers. If it blows up in my face, she laughs like she would have never attempted it.
man, chicks are just smarter than us.
go out and buy her somthing is right... like a magnum RT.
Worked for me. I never hear a single nagative thang with modding my ride.
Matter of fact, she uses me as a guinnie pig. If she digs the mod I do that week, she does it on hers. If it blows up in my face, she laughs like she would have never attempted it.
man, chicks are just smarter than us.
Took my wife for a ride in the new RT...She sat there with her arms crossed and didn't flinch. Got on the gas a little bit, turned the BA sound system up, Opened the sun roof.......Did NOT impress her one bit. Needless to say...I didn't buy this to impress her. She does leave me alone with my choices, and I don't have to ask permission to purchase anything else for the car. Could be worse.
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I had questions on the clay bar, here are answers I got from the Detail Forumhere:
Slide your hand in a plasic sandwich baggie, then rub your hand lightly over the surface. You will feel so much more this way than just with a bare hand. Once you feel your finish becoming rough then it's time to clay.
If you are not familiar with the clay bar, go to the Adam's Website http://adamspolishes.com/ and on the right side of the page, there are free instructional videos including a video on "Clay Bar". The quick version: A clay bar is just that, a hunk of clay that you rub over your paint that will remove all the impurities from your paint. One bar, with normal use is good for about 8-10 uses.
Regardless of how clean you think your paint is, there is still contamination stuck on the paint that you need to remove before waxing or polishing your paint. Clay bars leave behind an ultra-smooth surface that will make your wax adhere better and last longer. It also makes the wax much easier to remove, reducing your "elbow grase" substantially. Clay is safe for all paint and also works great on glass to get it sqeaky clean. Clay bars are best used with a lubrant such as Adam's Detail Spray or soapy water. Follow up with a good polish or if you are satisfied with the finish after clay bar, use your favorite wax.
Over 70% of all new vehicles are shipped from the factory via rail, therefore infecting the vehicle before it even gets to the dealership.
Anytime a vehicle is parked or travels near a railroad it is subjected to rail dust contamination
Brake dust is produced from the friction of the brake pads rubbing against the rotor.
Since all brake pads are no longer made of asbestos, and are made of metal particles, during braking, metal on metal friction disburses tiny particles of bare metal onto the paint finish of all automobiles.
Industrial fallout is another term used to describe pollution, this contamination is settling onto the paint finish of all automobiles and causing equal damage as rail dust and brake dust when left untreated
1. Clay isn't just for paint. You can use detailing clay on any smooth, hard surface, including glass and chrome. Do not use clay on clear plastic, such as headlight lenses.
2. Clay is not a cure-all or a replacement for polishing. It's a tool for quickly and easily removing surface contamination. One of the many reasons for using clay is the removal of brake dust. Brake dust contamination, which attaches to painted rear bumpers and adjoining surfaces, is a metallic surface contaminant that can be removed safely and effectively by using clay. When contaminants get a solid grip on your car's paint, washing alone may not be enough to remove them. Pre-wax cleaners also may not be able to exfoliate large particles. In this case, you have two choices: use a polishing compound, which removes a lot of paint material, or use a clay bar. Clay isn't a polish or a compound, it is a surface preparation bar that smoothes the paint and exfoliates contaminants.
Using a polish after a clay treatment will remove swirls out of the paint finish that will make your paint optically improved as clay bar will not remove swirls.
Slide your hand in a plasic sandwich baggie, then rub your hand lightly over the surface. You will feel so much more this way than just with a bare hand. Once you feel your finish becoming rough then it's time to clay.
If you are not familiar with the clay bar, go to the Adam's Website http://adamspolishes.com/ and on the right side of the page, there are free instructional videos including a video on "Clay Bar". The quick version: A clay bar is just that, a hunk of clay that you rub over your paint that will remove all the impurities from your paint. One bar, with normal use is good for about 8-10 uses.
Regardless of how clean you think your paint is, there is still contamination stuck on the paint that you need to remove before waxing or polishing your paint. Clay bars leave behind an ultra-smooth surface that will make your wax adhere better and last longer. It also makes the wax much easier to remove, reducing your "elbow grase" substantially. Clay is safe for all paint and also works great on glass to get it sqeaky clean. Clay bars are best used with a lubrant such as Adam's Detail Spray or soapy water. Follow up with a good polish or if you are satisfied with the finish after clay bar, use your favorite wax.
Over 70% of all new vehicles are shipped from the factory via rail, therefore infecting the vehicle before it even gets to the dealership.
Anytime a vehicle is parked or travels near a railroad it is subjected to rail dust contamination
Brake dust is produced from the friction of the brake pads rubbing against the rotor.
Since all brake pads are no longer made of asbestos, and are made of metal particles, during braking, metal on metal friction disburses tiny particles of bare metal onto the paint finish of all automobiles.
Industrial fallout is another term used to describe pollution, this contamination is settling onto the paint finish of all automobiles and causing equal damage as rail dust and brake dust when left untreated
1. Clay isn't just for paint. You can use detailing clay on any smooth, hard surface, including glass and chrome. Do not use clay on clear plastic, such as headlight lenses.
2. Clay is not a cure-all or a replacement for polishing. It's a tool for quickly and easily removing surface contamination. One of the many reasons for using clay is the removal of brake dust. Brake dust contamination, which attaches to painted rear bumpers and adjoining surfaces, is a metallic surface contaminant that can be removed safely and effectively by using clay. When contaminants get a solid grip on your car's paint, washing alone may not be enough to remove them. Pre-wax cleaners also may not be able to exfoliate large particles. In this case, you have two choices: use a polishing compound, which removes a lot of paint material, or use a clay bar. Clay isn't a polish or a compound, it is a surface preparation bar that smoothes the paint and exfoliates contaminants.
Using a polish after a clay treatment will remove swirls out of the paint finish that will make your paint optically improved as clay bar will not remove swirls.
Well, did the clay bar yesterday. Gotta say that the visual effect on my Grey is not impressive. It looks no different at all. But, it is much much smoother to the touch. I think the reflective properties would be enhanced much more with a dark colored car.
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Yes it should take off bug splatter.Rockadile said:
One thing I'd suggest though, get yourself a separate bar for glass than one you use on the paint. It's a rarity, but your clay bar could pick up glass shards and you certainly would not want to be scraping glass shards over your paint. Same goes for wheels.
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Yes, i agree, it does ROCK!!, I used one yesterday on my dads 01' silver ram, i washed it, then clayed the whole thing, then waxed it with NXT wax, it looked better than it ever has!!!, that clay bar works awesomelly!!
It sure duz, man.
magnumsxt, did you wax it afterward?
I havn't done it to my wife's yet (hers is grey too) but I gotta think it'll be night and day... especially since I havn't even waxed hers yet.
I have learned something though... when I get finished washing mine and she busts out with "are you gonna wash mine too?"
that's not actually a question but a staement:
"wash mine too"
Only took me pissin' her off twice to learn that one.
all like "naaaa, I'm totally tired, now"
just doesn't fly. Now, I wash hers forst like a good boy but I spend a bit more time on mine... I chalk it up to the color, not my trying to remain a rebel in a faroff way.
magnumsxt, did you wax it afterward?
I havn't done it to my wife's yet (hers is grey too) but I gotta think it'll be night and day... especially since I havn't even waxed hers yet.
I have learned something though... when I get finished washing mine and she busts out with "are you gonna wash mine too?"
that's not actually a question but a staement:
"wash mine too"
Only took me pissin' her off twice to learn that one.
all like "naaaa, I'm totally tired, now"
just doesn't fly. Now, I wash hers forst like a good boy but I spend a bit more time on mine... I chalk it up to the color, not my trying to remain a rebel in a faroff way.
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