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changed fluid, now trans is slipping

4105 Views 23 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  dodgensince74
I recently changed the fluid in my son's 97 Ram with Valvaline fluid rated Type 4. I changed the fluid and filter removing a tone of shavings adhering to the magnet in the pan. The owner's manual called for Type 2. I had always thought that you could use newer fluids in lieu of older recomendations. Now whenever we take off the trans slips initially then grabs. Can't find type 2 at any of the local parts stores. Any ideas? Oh and I also adjusted the bands without any improvement.

Thanks
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You are correct in using +4 fluid. The bad news is the trans won't get any better. They are the weakest link on these trucks.
how many miles you got on that tranny?
Anything over 100,000 is considered good.
Does it have the factory cooler? There have been some instances that a check ball gets partially stuck and inhibits proper flow.
Might try pulling the return cooler line, get a catch can, and see how much flow you are getting.
If it's not flowing like it should, try by passing the cooler to see if that helps.
You didn't mention if you flushed it or not.

I changed the fluid and filter removing a tone of shavings adhering to the magnet in the pan
may be a little late for this, but: in some cases if the tranny has not been serviced regularly (every 25000-40000 miles), changing the fluid & filter can do more harm that good.
116,000 miles. As you said may be more harm than good, ran fine until I changed the filter and fluid, no I did not flush it completely. Just what came out of the pan. Yes it has the factory cooler and towing package. Checked fluid level and it is even with the crosshatched section of the dipstick. Stick says is OK but I may add some to raise it into the crosshatch and see if that helps, Not overfilled so we will see. Thanks for the input.
make sure you check it at operating temp (or close to it, as long as it's not cold) with the tranny in N.
Checking in P can give you a false reading and you will actually have less fluid that what it appears on the stick.
chizzle1 said:
may be a little late for this, but: in some cases if the tranny has not been serviced regularly (every 25000-40000 miles), changing the fluid & filter can do more harm that good.
Sorry to say, but i have lived by a rule, if ant broke dont fix it. in this case evertime i seen somebody change the fluid the trany craps out.
MrCrash, hopefully it is not a total goner but will let everyone know what happens after adding fluid.

Chizzle1, I did a check at operating temp with the truck running in neutral and with it in park and the emergency brake on. Same reading.

Thanks again
might also look at adjusting your bands.it's a good idea to do it while you have the pan off for a fluid change. go to http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/AT_band_adj.htm
for a quick step-by-step on it.:IDEA:
MrCrash said:
Sorry to say, but i have lived by a rule, if ant broke dont fix it. in this case evertime i seen somebody change the fluid the trany craps out.
I changed mine once at about 40,000 miles. Used Amsoil and haven't touched it since and it's still fine at 270,000. Fluid looks fine and the truck shifts real nice.
A buddy of mine is a Dodge Mechanic and says pretty much the same thing you just said. They tend to blow up when you change the fluid after 70K.
socalrat said:
MrCrash, hopefully it is not a total goner but will let everyone know what happens after adding fluid.

Chizzle1, I did a check at operating temp with the truck running in neutral and with it in park and the emergency brake on. Same reading.

Thanks again
What happens is, In some cases your clutches are so worn it's all the crap floating around in there that actually causes the clutches to grab and the trans to shift. Put in all that slippery new fluid and the clutches can't grab and you get the low Rpm slippage you describe.

I got a Mopar reman from a dealership in Florida for my girlfriends truck for $1395+$125 shipping complete with 3/36,000 mi warrenty and put it in my self. Its very easy to put a new one in.
make sure you seated the filter properly, and if it had a oring or gasket make sure you put it in there. because there is tremendous suction there, any leak will suck in air and cause foaming fluid and shifting problems. if it wasnt having a problem before the change it should be running fine.
I have the same problem in my 2001 1500.When i bought her, it had 77,000 but i was told the trans was flushed at 50,000 so i did it as soon as i got the title. There was very little shavings in it and at 83,000 the slips began.
I have a 1999 2500 with 65,000 miles, a 8.0L V10, and the 47RE Trans. I bought it about six months ago (my 1st Dodge truck). Recently, I had a smart attack (LOL), and with it having an unknown past I went through and had all the fluids changed or flushed including the trans with new pan gasket and filter. Not even three weeks later it seems that I lost my first gear and overdrive. I'm told it need to be rebuilt at a price of $2,200.00 with a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty. Does anyone have any Ideas or Know where I can get a good heavy duty trans that won't break for not too much money? The shipping to Hawaii is pretty harsh. Thanks.
check out thefastman.com
Dan has some good trannys that are built right.
Good idea except that Fastman doesn't seem to make a 47RE Trans for the V10. Thanks for trying. Jonathan
from what i understand thefastman doesn't do anything but TB now.. although i could be wrong
Part shipping is gonna eat your lunch...

If it helps, your 47RE should limp along for quite a long time before it leaves ya on the side of the road.
This thread is making me very very sad a worried. :( I bought my truck at 93,000 miles and the first thing I did was a fluid change from front to back. Engine, diffs, tranfer case and tranny. I used Valvoline ATF +4 and all seemed well. The tranny shifts they way it did before so I'm crossing my fingers and praying it holds up.

When I change the fluid, the old stuff was just about black and the bottom of the pan was covered with a grey sludgy substance that was exceptionally built up around the magnet (shavings?). It was shifting kinda crappy but I've found that was mostly because of the TV cable being out of adjustment. The only thing I notice about it right now is a slight hickup between first and 2nd gear but I haven't checked the bands yet so it might be that.

This weekend, I am installing the Jr shift kit, flushing the cooler, and adjusting the bands in hopes that I can make this thing last as long as possible.

STUPID TRANSMISSION!
Has anyone out there heard of Phoenix Remanufactured Transmissions in Arizona? They're offering me their Extreme Towing Transmission including torque converter for my V10 with a 12 mth/12k warranty. It sounds pretty good. I listed their info below.

DODGE - A618 (47RE 96-03)
Extreme Towing Performance Built Transmission: $1895
Refundable core deposit: $750.00
Shipping Cost: $300.00 (Quoted $325 to Hawaii)

Features:

This transmission is built to PRT race specs, it is also a perfect transmission for towing and HD applications.

NEW 5 Pinion Steel Front Planet
NEW 5 Pinion Steel Overdrive Planet
4 Pinion Reverse Planet
NEW Intermediate Shaft
Rigid Kevlar Band
4.2 Ratio Band Strut
Direct Drum Upgraded w\ 10 Element Clutch Setup
Forward Drum Upgraded w\ 10 Element Clutch Setup
OD Direct Clutches Upgraded w\ Red Eagles and 2 additional elements
Custom PRT Valve Body built to custom PRT Spec, Can be setup for either Race, Street Strip or Towing
Raybestos Blue Plate Racing Clutches, or Red Eagle Clutches
Many More Proprietary PRT upgrades

Remanufactured process includes:

Complete Disassembly
Casing and external parts are cleaned in our state of the art hot aqueous steam pressure cleansing system
EVERY part is both visually inspected, and tested / measured against OEM standards by Certified Technicians.
ALL wearable parts are replaced with NEW American Made Parts, this includes: CLUTCHES, BANDS, GASKETS, SEALS, O RINGS, SEALING RINGS, BUSHINGS, FRICTIONS, LIP SEALS, SYNCHRONIZERS, BEARINGS.
ALL automatic transmissions are DYNO TESTED for 30-40 minutes.
All pressures are thoroughly checked, and all shift positions verified at various speeds, pressures etc. This insures that everything works correctly, and that you always receive the highest quality transmission.
All Electrical Solenoids and Sensors are individually tested on our computerized Sol X Solenoid test machine.
All Valve Bodies are Designed, and tested on our Fully Computerized Zoom Technologies VBT 4000 Test Machine
All transmission are dyno tested on of of our 4 state of the art Dynometers to insure a perfect transmission the first time.

We include the MONSTER Tow Master Billet single-disc torque converter. The billet cover prevents cover flex and lug failure. With 40% more clutch surface area, machined billet cover, redesigned stator, furnace brazed vanes, electronically balanced, and drain plug this converter will handle any power or load demand.

BASIC 12 Month 12000 Mile Warranty; this warranty covers the replacement of wearable parts only in the unlikely event of a transmission failure. All labor, and shipping costs are the responsibility of the buyer.

Phoenix Remanufactured Transmissions
7310 W. Roosevelt Suite #26
Phoenix, AZ 85043
Phone: 623.936.1500
Fax: 623.936.1148
www.PhoenixHardParts.com
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If what you see is what you get,it sounds pretty good. Just out of curiosity,if you get it put in and it doesn't work right,then what are you suppose to do?
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