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Discussion Starter #1
Is there an easy way to by pass the converter on my '95? I've had a new Magnaflow cat-back dual exhaust installed and had custom Dodge Challenger 2.5" tips added. Now there is a terrible rattle noise in the exhaust coming from the converter. I'm sure the brick (or what ever style that they used) is in pieces making all the noise. Since the stock converter is also the Y pipe and the location for the O2 sensor and I'm not wanting to buy a new converter (too much $ and it would obviously hurt performance over not having one) so what if anything have any of you done to replace it? I was actually thinking of cutting it off, knocking all the insides out of it, then putting it back on! What do you guys think?
 

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I'm in the same position. Was gonna go with a magnaflow high flow cat but it sounds cheaper to go no cat let me know what you guys got or think.
 

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This is only me and my truck, but when mine went bad, I had the muffler shop eliminate the cat all together. Built me a y-pipe to a 3in. intermediate, and installed the o2 sensors in the y and one in the intermediate. They are spaced apart as if the cat were still there. I have had no problems whatsoever with performance, codes, or check engine light. I do however have a hi-flow cat in mind for the near future, simply because I believe the emissions laws are going to tighten up everywhere soon. Hope this helps. Thanks!
Steve
 

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Looks like I'll be getting a place near by to replace it with a y-pipe and bung for the O2. He apparantly won't have a problem with doing it but want cash so there is no record of the removal. That's fine by me. He estimated $60. The converter got damaged because the pervious owner ignored the idiot light that was on for a bad EGR valve and it probablt got messed up for the recall that wasn't done before I got it for the Purge Canister. Sometimes I wonder if the manufacturers aren't wasting their time trying to make warnings for vehicle problems because most people ignore them anyway. ("It's not serious because it's just the emmissions system..." then they complain that their mileage sucks from the O2 going bad. This makes them mad because O2 are expensive and they can't figure out why they have to replace them all the time.)
 

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I also need to replace the whole Y-pipe, converter, but in IL we have to have a converter, so I can't just take it out. What type of Y-pipe/converter did any of you purchase, and how much??

Thanks :)
 

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Actually, removal of the converter is not legal anywhere in the U.S. because it's a federal law. I can only get this done because 1) the guy is willing to do it despite the fact that he's not supposed to and 2) there are no emissions tests here in Indiana. The guy is making it up custom for my truck.
 

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Well, I got the converter removed and the replacement custom Y-pipe put on the truck on Monday. Took him three hours to cobble it up and cost me $75. He did a very nice job. What do I think? I love it! No more sluggishness in the morning when cold, no more rattle! As a bonus, it's a little louder (just about right in my opinion, but I don't like it too loud like other trucks are), deeper sounding, and it even has quicker throttle response and feels a bit peppier by te seat of the pants. It was a win-win installation! On a side note, I also found the cause of the play in my steering...the eye-bolt for the track bar mounting it to the body was loose. Now the steering is as it should be.
 

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A easy and a cheap way that this can be fixed is by removing the heat shield on the cat, make 3 cuts in cat, something like this |_| then u can bend the piece open, bang out all the crap thats in there, then close it up, weld it, put the heat shield back on, and it looks just like stock. I had a shop do this to mine and it runs great, and it passes the visual inspection.
 

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Whats with these converters? It seems like every 2nd gen. Ram has this problem. My '95 and my cousins '94 also have this problem. I'm thinking about putting true duels on mine w/ no converter at all. None of that wussy Y-pipe stuff. I am also interested in getting the most HP out of my 318 without any juice or boost. My first idea is to put performance headers on it. Will I really get the claimed 45 HP increase? My cousin has a computer programer for his 94, will it work for my '95? He is able to power brake and spin his stock size tires like crazy on dry pavement, I can't, is this because of the programer? I have also noticed that when i'm pullin' mad doughnuts in the dirt, my engine will gradually drop rpm's although i've still got it floored. Is this the so called rev limiter?, will the programer take this off?

thankyou
 

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I am on a tight budget right now, and my cat is rattleing like crazy. This sounds like a good fix. Good thing is, there are no emisions testing here in Michigan!!
 
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