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ACE
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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to be doing the TFOD Jr shift kit and am wondering if you had any pointers on removal and installation. Also do you have the picture of the mod you did to the governor pressure sensor housing with the 3/4" drill bit.
I am very nervous to be doing this as i have never dropped a valve body before. I've only ever done moderate auto maitenance. Thanks



Tom
 

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Transmission Man!
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Modified governor block thread:
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=252789

Keep everything surgically clean and you should be fine.
I use brake parts cleaner for a final wash down of the VB parts.
If you are not replacing the governor pressure solenoid,take it off and set it aside,DO NOT CLEAN IT!
When you are ready,just put it back on. :D
 

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ACE
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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for getting back to me. I am about to go out and start it. Just out of curiosity how many bolts hold on the valve body? Tom
 

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Transmission Man!
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ACE
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Discussion Starter #5
thanks. well i did it. still a little slow on the 1-2 shift. i didn't take the check ball out that is mentioned in one of your posts, o well. overall seems alright i only drove it a few miles, i also bypassed the radiator cooler and added a cooler on the front of the a/c condensor. when i drilled the hole in the seperator plate i used a 3/32's bit, is that ok? also the od accumulator piston spring was in 2 pieces so i couldn't reuse it. thank you very much for the help.



Tom
 

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Transmission Man!
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3/32 is fine,that is why the 1-2 shift is not too firm though (shouda went bigger).

You don't use the OD acc piston spring over,you put the new yellow one in there and you can put the original pressure regulator spring INSIDE it to make the 3-4 shift firmer yet.

At least you now have the full time converter fill and the better converter clutch apply of the Transgo kit.:D
 

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ACE
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Discussion Starter #7
what would have been a good size to drill the holes. i really wish i had known i could go bigger, i am dissapointed in the shift firmness. o well maybe when i drop the pan next time to do a fluid and filter change.
 

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Transmission Man!
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7/64th would have been better. If you really want to feel it,leave the ball out next to the drilled hole.
 

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ACE
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Discussion Starter #9
Do you think it would be worth the effort to drop the pan to drill the 2 holes out bigger and take out the check ball? I mean the truck isn't a race truck just a daily driver. Also would it hurt the tranny to have it shift that hard?

Tom
 

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Transmission Man!
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That is up to you,leaving the ball out,it will not shift THAT hard. It will be more like what you are wanting probably. It will not hurt your truck.
 

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Would it hurt to install one of these into a "seasoned" tranny, approx. 75K on a dealer replacement. My shifts are slow and soft as well.

I've only installed on fresh tranny's or low mile.

Thanks, sorry for the thread hijack.
 

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Transmission Man!
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Yes,you would be fine.:D
 

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ACE
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Discussion Starter #13
i sure it would be fine since my truck has 107,844 on it and i put one in.
 

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On the TFOD-jr installation, page 1, instruction one states to drill two holes .086-.094. By mistake I grabbed my drill which had the 7/64 bit still in it and drilled the two holes. That makes them .109 how big of a problem am I going to have now. What will I experience now? tactransman help!
 

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Transmission Man!
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You are fine.
 

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Per the instructions posted previously, in step 3, it says to cross drill the hole. Not sure what that does or why. I did not do it as the updated instruction sheet said it wasnt necessary. What is that for anyway?
 

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I have done:
Lockup holes drilled two @ 7/64
Ground switch valve as described
Used new manual valve and lockup bracket
Adjusted manual valve by bending arm tip
Separator plate holes drilled @ 7/64
Left out 1-2 check ball
new PR springs and adjusted per instructions
New OD spring
Drilled govenor plate with 3/4 bit opening orifice
changed the 2.5 lever to the 3.8

Am I missing something? Any other mods? Have I gone too far for daily driving?
 

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Blowin n' Goin
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Do that mod to the gov press sensor. I did it with a 3/4" bit and it worked pretty good. An end mill used in machining will work the best though.
 

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Transmission Man!
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Per the instructions posted previously, in step 3, it says to cross drill the hole. Not sure what that does or why. I did not do it as the updated instruction sheet said it wasnt necessary. What is that for anyway?
Cross drilling the hole connects "line pressure to lube pressure" They changed to the double pressure regulator spring which does the same thing so you no longer cross drill.

You should also shim the rear servo piston solid so you can do manual 1-2 shifts.

 
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