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Discussion Starter #1
So I just spent the last hour and a half looking at olds threads about winches.:rolleyes:

There's been lots of talk about bypass the thermal and low voltage protection but has anyone actually done? If you have, did you take any pics? How about a wiring schematic of this thing? I have the service manual but it's not very detailed.

I'm hoping to do it this weekend since I'm pretty sure my thermal is fried (powers out but not in). Thats what Warn recommends too.

If not then I'll try it myself and post some pics and see if I can explain.
 

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I've included photos of the thermal bypass wire where it comes out of the motor and the connector. The thermal switch is in a normally closed position. To test if it is the thermal switch, take that connector apart and using a piece of wire stripped on both ends jump out the connector that is coming from the winch controller. If the winch powers in, then you have a bad thermal switch.

I am going to contact Warn and see if I can buy the connector so I can take half the connector and solder the two wires together that exit the connector. This would create an "always on" signal to the controller since the switch is in a "normally closed" position. This way, if I need to bypass the thermal switch I could just plug the modified connector in without having to permanently cut the wires coming from the controller.

Good luck
 

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2006 PW Q/C #0026
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Goodoc,

You'll have to forgive me as it has been quite some time since I fooled with the winch. I believe the LVI has a connector similar to this no?

http://www.drawtite.com/2elco.html

If warn can supply the part Great. If not let me know what you come up with. Maybe you can be the LVI harness guru.

Ryan
 

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Yea, it's similar to that, but if memory serves me correct it's not it. But I'll take a look at it tommorow since the memory often doesn't serve me correct.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got it fixed. Bypassed the thermal switch no problem and the winch is up and running again! :rck:

It would be really easy to make a quick connect bypass for it and I might call Warn if I have sime time to see about prices for the connector. It's a cheap POS connector that can probably be found elsewhere too.

I'll post pictures tomorrow. :)

Didn't bypass the low voltage one yet, wiring is a little more complicated and I'll need to think about it more.

Getting the winch in and out is a bit of a PITA but not too bad if you can get some help.
 

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If you can make a "plug and play hook up" make two, I'll buy one from you. That would be great. This is something MANY of us want to do. Thanks
 

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05DodgePowerWagon2115
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WARN Winch Thermal Protection Switch Gone Bad (Motor Fine)

Hey all. First of all, this post was very timely as I was also trying to diagnose what was going on with the winch on my Power Wagon. After troubleshooting using the Chrysler Winch Service Manual (provided courtesy of Warn also attached here), I finally figured out that it wasn't my solenoids or my motor that had gone bad (as previously diagosed by the stealership), but rather the stupid thermal protector that had gone bad again (I had previously had the motor replaced for this).

This time I wasn't so quick to spend a few hundred dollars on a motor etc, so I set about trying to figure out if anyone else was having the same issue. After looking around on the internet it appeared that there were a few other folks were having the same issue even though they hardly used their winch's (I have only used mine for any real purpose, once to pull a car out of ditch a few years ago, other then that just to test that it works or not.)

After reading a few posts I decided to take a trip to my local NAPA auto parts to see if I could put together a bypass that looked pretty good and didn't cost an arm and a leg. I purchased item number 755-1598 a 2-Flat Electrical Connector - 12" Loop ($1.99) (similar to the connector that goes from the solenoids to the thermal protection switch) a few crimp ends and had some electical tape laying around the house. (All told less then $3.00)

Here are the pictures and instructions to detail what i did to put it together.

Instructions:

1. Cut the 2-Flat Electrical Connector in half and leave about 2 inches of wire on both ends.

2. Strip all 4 wires leaving the bare copper ends

3. Twist the ends of the black and white wires together

4. Use a 14-20 guage crimp ends and crimp them onto the ends of the combined wires.

5. Finish with electrical tape to make more water resistant and a nicer finish.

6. Separate the two ends on the winch

7. Plug the newly created bypasses onto each end (you likely don't need the end from the side going to the winch motor but I don't like to leave empty wires hanging.)

8. Enjoy the fact that your winch is working again without having to replace the motor. (Just to verify the fact that there wasn't anything wrong with the motor I did take it apart and it looked good as new).


I have also attached pictures of the Warn Wireless Remote Kit I installed. Well worth the cost and the remote is small enough you can use it at the same time as holding the cable to winch in.
 

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05DodgePowerWagon2115
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Pictures of the Warn Wireless Remote System
 

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2006 PW Q/C #0026
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pdavey,

You are the man. Very nice work. Where did you mount the receiver for the wireless remote system?

Ryan
 

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05DodgePowerWagon2115
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Mounted the wireless reciever on the back side of my aftermarket cold air intake box. There is a lot of room on that side of the truck.
 

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Nice job bud. Appreciate the detailed post.

Rgory, looks like you had the right connector. I told you my memory doesn't always serve me right.
 

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Very Nice !!!
 

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Hello pdavey, I am electrically challenged so I have a couple questions:

1. Is the basic solution to take the 2-flat electrical connectors and put one on the external OEM connector so the computer thinks the thermal switch is in the closed position?

2. And the other one on the internal connector, that comes from the thermal switch, so the motor thinks the thermal switch is in the closed position, thus bypassing the thermal switch?

3. Can this be done without removing the winch and still have reasonable access to things you need to?

4. Are pics 5, 6, and 7 all differnt connectors, if so which ones?

6. what did you mean by "I have only used mine for any real purpose, once to pull a car out of ditch a few years ago, other then that just to test that it works or not"?
 

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05DodgePowerWagon2115
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Hello pdavey, I am electrically challenged so I have a couple questions:

1. Is the basic solution to take the 2-flat electrical connectors and put one on the external OEM connector so the computer thinks the thermal switch is in the closed position?

2. And the other one on the internal connector, that comes from the thermal switch, so the motor thinks the thermal switch is in the closed position, thus bypassing the thermal switch?

3. Can this be done without removing the winch and still have reasonable access to things you need to?

4. Are pics 5, 6, and 7 all differnt connectors, if so which ones?

6. what did you mean by "I have only used mine for any real purpose, once to pull a car out of ditch a few years ago, other then that just to test that it works or not"?
Coder,

Concerning #1 the computer actually has nothing to do with the winch (I made the same assumption as you did when I started out on this endevor), but rather there is a little switch that operates based on temperature that sits inside the motor. This switch is normally closed allowing the power from the hand switch to pass through to the solenoids and provide power to the winch. What I found out is that the thermal switch sometimes fails for no reason staying open therefore not allowing power to get to the winch when you try to winch-in (although it will allow you to winch-out because the TPS (Thermal Protection Switch) does not regulate the power for this function. The purpose of the by-pass is just to allow the power to go from the hand switch directly to the solenoid pack regardless of the TPS state.

#2 - You actually do not need to do a by-pass on the motor side of the switch, I just don't like leaving wires open. You could just use electrical tape on that end if you wished.

#3 - The pictures I took were with the winch in place so you can definitely get to it without removing the winch. It is tight but if you take a close look at the pics I provided and know what you are looking for you can do it.

#4 - Pics 5, 6 & 7 are all the same connector I was just showing where it was apart and the installation of the by-pass connector.

#6 (I assume you meant 5 :)) - Because the Power Wagon is so good offroad and on, I haven't had to use my winch but once for the recovery of another vehical. The only other times I have used it was to spool the wire out and in to test. This is how I have found that it wasn't working properly in the past was tests. I had planned on using it to help pull out a stump, however it wasn't working at the time. The main purpose of the winch is for self recovery.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Peter
 

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I know this was directed at pdavey, but I can tell you that #1 is a yes. As to #2, the motor is completely unaware of the thermal switch and its position as closed or open. It is designed to open similar to a fuse when the motor temperature rises past a set temperature. The question is whether or not these are bad switches or that the motors are running hotter than spec. If it is the latter, the motors will die an early death. It is a question that will likely be answered during a difficult extraction when you need it most. That is why I am planning to use the bypass only as a temporary measure until I can replace the motor. I, for one, really could have used the bypass when mine failed in the middle of nowhere at the end of a snowmobile trail in NH. But I will not take a chance on running without it since I view it as an early warning system.


Hello pdavey, I am electrically challenged so I have a couple questions:

1. Is the basic solution to take the 2-flat electrical connectors and put one on the external OEM connector so the computer thinks the thermal switch is in the closed position?

2. And the other one on the internal connector, that comes from the thermal switch, so the motor thinks the thermal switch is in the closed position, thus bypassing the thermal switch?

3. Can this be done without removing the winch and still have reasonable access to things you need to?

4. Are pics 5, 6, and 7 all differnt connectors, if so which ones?

6. what did you mean by "I have only used mine for any real purpose, once to pull a car out of ditch a few years ago, other then that just to test that it works or not"?
 

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pdavey,

We were typing our responses at the same time, sorry for the double post. I got done, posted, and there was your response:)
 

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Gooddoc,

No problem at all. You have also added some very valuable insight. Being that my Thermal Protection Switch has failed on me twice, both without having used the winch I am assuming that it is really a problem with the TPS. If it had failed on me while using it I would think that it was a motor issue. Since the last time I had the motor replaced by the stealership I only tested the winch once and then I was going to use it to pull out a stump realized that it would not winch-in again and this was without having used it at all. Really not sure what the issue is or why it keeps failing but it was the issue the first time again with limited use and about a year after I had used the winch to pull the car out the first time. Unfortuantely you can't just replace the TPS (actually you could if the part was avail) as there is no part available to just replace the TPS.

It also appears that not all of the winches have them but it is limited to the Power Wagon's and high end winches.

If there are other Power Wagons having issues with the TPS with limited use we may have recourse with Warn and Dodge. Be happy to discuss more if we want to approach this option. May be worth while posting something in the Power Wagon forum.
 

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So at a high-level the solution is to not route the power through the TBS but send it directly to the motor?

When you say "6. Separate the two ends on the winch" you are unplugging the power to the TBS and going directly to the motor power solenoids, which I assume are on the outside of the winch?

Also:

I thought I read in another thread that you could replace the TBS:

Warn thermal protection switch P/N 78354

(Ordering)
http://warnserviceparts.com

(Thread discussing it)
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221638
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Looks like pdavey has beat me to the punch. Certainly his solution is great and will work just as well as a permanent bypass. :cool:

I decided to permanently bypass it after a long conversation with a guy from Warn. He said that they'd been making winches for 61 years and this was the only winch that had the Low Voltage or the Thermal protection. He'd been there for 12 years and only ever heard of a handful of people burning out their winches.

Anyway, for those that are interested, here's what I did. I wish I had a piece of shrink wrap but forgot about it until everything was ripped apart and the store was closed. Next time the winch is out I'll do it then. I'll work on a bypass for the Low Voltage protection too, seems like just one more thing to fail when you need it most.:huh:

Making a bunch of the bypasses up like pdavey would be quick and easy. If anyone is really wanting one, I can probably do it for $15-$20 shipped. If there is interest, I'll price out the parts and shipping and firm that number up. It is pdavey's mod though so he gets first dibs on building kits for people if he wants to.:worthy: Certainly is a lot easier because you won't need to drop the winch.

First shot is just after you take the end off the motor. The wires you see coming into the case are for the thermal switch.

Second is of the actual switch itself. Looks fine but is definitely electrically open and therefore scrap.

Third is after it bypassed. Just connect to the wires together and you're done. Could be done anywhere. Inside the motor, either side of the connector, doesn't matter, works the same regardless.

The forth and fifth are the connector for the Low Voltage. It is a better sealed connector. I don't know if it's a Dodge connector or a Warn but I'll try and find out.
 

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I for one would definately be interested in buying one. Also one for the L V Interup. Let me know details when avail. Thanks.
 
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