Buying first Durango
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Hey Alex -
First of all, WELCOME! You didn't mention what year you're looking at. My mates will chime in with a bunch of great advise, but the first three things I'd do is:
1) Cycle the key from "off" to ""on" (without starting) three times. On the third time (in "on") get ready to write down any engine codes, which will appear in the odometer window.
2) Pull the dipstick and check the quality of the oil. Also look under the rig for any signs of hemoraging fluids.
3) Warm up the engine, repeat #1 & #2, then make sure the HEATER WORKS (the heater core is a royal PITA to replace). Ditto, if it has AC.
These aren't necessarily the most important things, but add them to your list!
First of all, WELCOME! You didn't mention what year you're looking at. My mates will chime in with a bunch of great advise, but the first three things I'd do is:
1) Cycle the key from "off" to ""on" (without starting) three times. On the third time (in "on") get ready to write down any engine codes, which will appear in the odometer window.
2) Pull the dipstick and check the quality of the oil. Also look under the rig for any signs of hemoraging fluids.
3) Warm up the engine, repeat #1 & #2, then make sure the HEATER WORKS (the heater core is a royal PITA to replace). Ditto, if it has AC.
These aren't necessarily the most important things, but add them to your list!
The usuals, test drive, check for pulls left or right, vibrations, make sure to check for popping sounds at full steering lock. What year is the Durango you're looking at? As Big WD up there said but also If it has rear air, make sure thats working too (A/C and heat). They have separate cores for that.
Oh yeah... if it's older check to see if it has OEM shocks. They're easy enough to change, but the OEM's aren't worth a $hti. If it does and it's got ~50K+ miles, either do yourself a favor and plan on replacing them soon or get them to do it.
Give it a test and bounce the rear up and down, if it doesn't re-settle itself in about 1.5 bounces get new ones. This is primarily a ride quality thing, but they're cheap enough to negotiate over.
Give it a test and bounce the rear up and down, if it doesn't re-settle itself in about 1.5 bounces get new ones. This is primarily a ride quality thing, but they're cheap enough to negotiate over.
One more thought...I would pay the $$ to get a CarFax Report on any vehicle you are thinking about purchasing and after the sale be sure and register your vehicle.
This Report is quite useful. You'll see where the D 1st went into service, how many owners, mileage at each registration change over.
I did this when I was ready to buy and it kept me from buying what I know would have turned out to be the WORST purchase I could have made.
Good Luck!!
This Report is quite useful. You'll see where the D 1st went into service, how many owners, mileage at each registration change over.
I did this when I was ready to buy and it kept me from buying what I know would have turned out to be the WORST purchase I could have made.
Good Luck!!
IMO carfax is pretty worthless for reporting accidents... Salvage titles, great, accidents... nope. My old escort had been in 4 accidents, not one showed up. Same for every car my family has owned that's been in an accident.
I wouldn't pay the money for it, I'd make the dealer pay. Any 1/2 decent dealer would actually offer that forthright, as if it was a window sticker. Many dealers in general pay to have unlimited useage of the carfax site anyway, it won't cost them any more $ to run that Durango too.
I wouldn't pay the money for it, I'd make the dealer pay. Any 1/2 decent dealer would actually offer that forthright, as if it was a window sticker. Many dealers in general pay to have unlimited useage of the carfax site anyway, it won't cost them any more $ to run that Durango too.
If you have the vehicle in mind and are buying from a dealer for sure have them pay for it. But if you are undecided about the exact vehicle you can purchase the 30 Day option, it will give you enough time and information to buy the best option for you.
I was fortunate and found a local vehicle. I had looked at another rig and though it had everything I wanted, it was an East Coast Vehicle, had more registration turn overs than the one I purchased.
As far as accidents go, I'm not sure what the criteria is to have one reported on the Report, I just know that I won't buy another vehicle without pulling the CarFax Report 1st.
I was fortunate and found a local vehicle. I had looked at another rig and though it had everything I wanted, it was an East Coast Vehicle, had more registration turn overs than the one I purchased.
As far as accidents go, I'm not sure what the criteria is to have one reported on the Report, I just know that I won't buy another vehicle without pulling the CarFax Report 1st.
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Take the vehicle to a trusted mechanic and have them look it over. This usually costs around $30. A WELL spent $30. If you are not well educated under the hood this is your best option because a mechanic know what he is looking for as far as problems go and can tell you what repairs are needed or what repairs will soo be needed. Most of us on this site are well versed and honest, but since you are asking these questions I will assume you are not well versed.
BEST ADVISE? Take it to you TRUSTED mechanic!
BEST ADVISE? Take it to you TRUSTED mechanic!
hey thanks for all the replies. i ended up buying it, knowing it may need a rear end, because its whineing, not that bad, but the bearings are probably shot. hey, $3,000 sounds like a deal for me, and 2 local places quoted me $500 for new axle, pinion, and carrier bearing with labor, not that bad.
oh yeah, it's a 98, with 117k, and the 5.9
oh yeah, it's a 98, with 117k, and the 5.9
ok,
but I've got a 5.9l 99 D with 100k km (not miles) here in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia...
here's the work to date after 6 months ownership;
1 X complete engine rebuild, plus also replaced water pump, fan module, radiator, upper suspension bushes(both sides), upper ball joint (one side), rear driver sides window motor, drivers side front and rear power door locks, entire drivers seat, shock absorbers front and back, A/C compressor cooling pipe
some of this came from a scrap yard here in Riyadh, other stuff from the dealer...
the good news is that its fun to drive at the moment...but I could have bought a brand new Durango for just a few SAR's more...!!
Chris
but I've got a 5.9l 99 D with 100k km (not miles) here in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia...
here's the work to date after 6 months ownership;
1 X complete engine rebuild, plus also replaced water pump, fan module, radiator, upper suspension bushes(both sides), upper ball joint (one side), rear driver sides window motor, drivers side front and rear power door locks, entire drivers seat, shock absorbers front and back, A/C compressor cooling pipe
some of this came from a scrap yard here in Riyadh, other stuff from the dealer...
the good news is that its fun to drive at the moment...but I could have bought a brand new Durango for just a few SAR's more...!!
Chris
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