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i would pull the t-stat before flushing, then flush the block and heater core in reverse flow first. Good luck
 

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ramslt88. Still overheating and no warm air so Im guessing the hole in the radiator is the problem durrrr. [/QUOTE said:
HOLE???. It should have been mentioned earlier!!

Use a "GOOD LIGHT, LOOK CLOSE, FIND LEAK". Block has 6 core holes and 2 drains. Cooling sytem may never work properly if not FULL.

Does coolant reserve system/tank operate properly(returning to the "same level" every time engine gets "fully cold", ie sits overnight). Even after purging, my 5.2 needs 3-4 hot/cold cycles to stabilize "cold level".

Htr core should be flushed seperate from engine, reverse then forward, repeat 3-4 times; the hot side htr hose often has joint(with nipple) on pass side, often by cyl 4+6. Undo joint, leaving nipple in the hose from manifold(add a chunk of hose from nipple to W pump for flushing engine) AVOID REMOVING HOSES FROM HTR CORE.
 

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Heater would only heat up when i was in motion...when i sat at a light the heat went to cold...then once i would go it would warm back up but not stay hot. thermostat maybe?

Once I pulled in my driveway it was overheating and the smoke was pouring out...It had been leaking antifreeze then put some radiator stop leak in it and it has held the antifreeze but now this with the bubbling sound and the "first" overheat issue. What does that sound like to you guys? Thanks
are you getting constant bubbles in the coolant that is entering the rad from the upper rad hose? sign of head gasket leak... compressed fuel/air being squeezed thru the leak on the cylinders compression strokes.

wasnt quite sure about where the bubbles/bubbling sound was coming from
 

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Well that sucked! We got the thermo swapped.... Still overheating and no warm air so Im guessing the hole in the radiator is the problem durrrr. I am going to flush it a few times because of the radiator stop I put in, then the new one goes in. Any suggestions or helpful hints doing this would also be appreciated! Thanks fellas

Dude..., I though you fixed the leak?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
HOLE???. It should have been mentioned earlier!!

Use a "GOOD LIGHT, LOOK CLOSE, FIND LEAK". Block has 6 core holes and 2 drains. Cooling sytem may never work properly if not FULL.

Does coolant reserve system/tank operate properly(returning to the "same level" every time engine gets "fully cold", ie sits overnight). Even after purging, my 5.2 needs 3-4 hot/cold cycles to stabilize "cold level".

Htr core should be flushed seperate from engine, reverse then forward, repeat 3-4 times; the hot side htr hose often has joint(with nipple) on pass side, often by cyl 4+6. Undo joint, leaving nipple in the hose from manifold(add a chunk of hose from nipple to W pump for flushing engine) AVOID REMOVING HOSES FROM HTR CORE.

Good info, I need!!

Yea I thought I had it stopped up but that crap didnt last a month. Anywho I bought the radiator and it going in tomorrow. SO the new thermostat needs to come back out before I flush it? Just do it it with no stat in there?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
are you getting constant bubbles in the coolant that is entering the rad from the upper rad hose? sign of head gasket leak... compressed fuel/air being squeezed thru the leak on the cylinders compression strokes.

wasnt quite sure about where the bubbles/bubbling sound was coming from
I listened to it today and i would say it is bubbling or swishing but either way someone said that is air in the system.
 

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ok. just to clarify... constant unending stream of bubbles coming in from the upper rad hose, when engine is at high idle can mean a head gasket leak

a squishy sloshing sound under the dash from inside the truck, just means you have air in your cooling system, namely the heater core and probably air in the heads until you bleed the air out ... if you just have a normal coolant leak, you can bleed the air out, and sloshing sound under dash may return after several days or week, esp after the truck has been sitting overnight... that sloshing sound should go away after a few minutes of driving

definitely make sure the tstat has a tiny hole (as mentioned) to help bleeding off the air. I replaced mine a couple months ago and use a very small drill bit & dremel
 

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Discussion Starter #29
ok. just to clarify... constant unending stream of bubbles coming in from the upper rad hose, when engine is at high idle can mean a head gasket leak

a squishy sloshing sound under the dash from inside the truck, just means you have air in your cooling system, namely the heater core and probably air in the heads until you bleed the air out ... if you just have a normal coolant leak, you can bleed the air out, and sloshing sound under dash may return after several days or week, esp after the truck has been sitting overnight... that sloshing sound should go away after a few minutes of driving

definitely make sure the tstat has a tiny hole (as mentioned) to help bleeding off the air. I replaced mine a couple months ago and use a very small drill bit & dremel
How/where do i bleed the air out of the cooling system?
 

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Remove stat before flushing as dodgensince74 said in post #21.

Air in system may cause corrision, hot spots/DET, and cracked heads etc.

To purge air, (it helps if pass side frt is 6"or so higher than rest of truck), add coolant to 1.5" below rad neck, leave cap off and start engine, add/keep level at 1.5, when stat starts opening upper hose will warm and you will see coolant flowing at rad neck, rad level will probably start dropping; start filling, and when flow gets too fast QUICKLY "fill to the top"+install cap. (various ways to do this)

Fill reserve tank 2-3" above cold/low level. 3-6 hot cold cycles may be needed for res tank to completly fill system. DO NOT allow res tank to run empty, or the system will draw air.

Make sure res tank "hose" "has a clamp on each end".

Re read kevinb70 post#28?. "Kev summed it up pretty good".
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Remove stat before flushing as dodgensince74 said in post #21.

Air in system may cause corrision, hot spots/DET, and cracked heads etc.

To purge air, (it helps if pass side frt is 6"or so higher than rest of truck), add coolant to 1.5" below rad neck, leave cap off and start engine, add/keep level at 1.5, when stat starts opening upper hose will warm and you will see coolant flowing at rad neck, rad level will probably start dropping; start filling, and when flow gets too fast QUICKLY "fill to the top"+install cap. (various ways to do this)

Fill reserve tank 2-3" above cold/low level. 3-6 hot cold cycles may be needed for res tank to completly fill system. DO NOT allow res tank to run empty, or the system will draw air.

Make sure res tank "hose" "has a clamp on each end".

Re read kevinb70 post#28?. "Kev summed it up pretty good".
Alrighty then I will let you guys know how it goes. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I found a step by step article for changing the thermostat on pavement sucks but nothing on doing the radiator... Anyone know where i might find something like that for the radiator?
 

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for changing a rad.? that also would be in the haynes book
 

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Discussion Starter #35
We flushed the system out 3 times ( without the tstat) and once with some peak cooling flush... the water finally came out clean, took the old radiator out and put the new one in today. Took 4 hours lol but hell I did it and it works! Thanks fellas~!!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Remove stat before flushing as dodgensince74 said in post #21.


To purge air, (it helps if pass side frt is 6"or so higher than rest of truck), add coolant to 1.5" below rad neck, leave cap off and start engine, add/keep level at 1.5, when stat starts opening upper hose will warm and you will see coolant flowing at rad neck, rad level will probably start dropping; start filling, and when flow gets too fast QUICKLY "fill to the top"+install cap. (various ways to do this)

Fill reserve tank 2-3" above cold/low level. 3-6 hot cold cycles may be needed for res tank to completly fill system. DO NOT allow res tank to run empty, or the system will draw air.

Make sure res tank "hose" "has a clamp on each end".

Re read kevinb70 post#28?. "Kev summed it up pretty good".
Thats exactly what we did, worked like a charm!
 

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Always keep 1 eye on res tank levels, you may find "patterns". "Keep an eye" for minor leaks anywhere, especially, mani, corrision/wet mani bolts, staining on btm of W pump, T cover, old core plugs, and the new rads trough/crimps.

I "HAD" 3 tiny leaks, block htr, mani bolt ,T cover; res tank level would drop about 1/4" per month. Fixed 2 of them, but I wont risk touching mani bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Always keep 1 eye on res tank levels, you may find "patterns". "Keep an eye" for minor leaks anywhere, especially, mani, corrision/wet mani bolts, staining on btm of W pump, T cover, old core plugs, and the new rads trough/crimps.

I "HAD" 3 tiny leaks, block htr, mani bolt ,T cover; res tank level would drop about 1/4" per month. Fixed 2 of them, but I wont risk touching mani bolt.
well atleast i can rule out the rad now... I will be keeping an eye on it for sure. Now that i got in there and actually did it myself i figured out a few things!
 

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Good for you man. Keep an eye on whole truck. ITS YOUR LIFE AND YOUR DOLLAR ON THE LINE.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Ok then... Next problem. I went up to the store today and it sounded like a belt screeching at the same time I could here the heater kick up then down when it was on high. And I have a little antifreeze leaking, looks like its coming straight down the new radiator, wtf!
 
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