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I have a 2017 Ram 1500 with 20k miles on it. Its now a second vehicle for me so dont use it much. I was feeling pulsation from brake pedal so I took it in to dealership. I made mistake of getting extended warranty and Im outside normal brake warranty coverage. They want 440 to replace the front ones and another 460 for the rear. My question is how do I possibly have warped rotors at 20k miles on practically new pickup? Most of the miles were highway miles with very little stop and go city traffic. I just find it hard to believe they would go bad this quickly.

Second question, how difficult to replace myself?
 

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I had 69k on my 2013 before I replaced. But only drive drive it twice a week. Purchased new rotors/pads for 350.00. Not too difficult unless it's very rusty. YouTube has some good DIY videos.

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Almost impossible to warp a rotor. The brake pads probably need to be bedded. Each manufacturer has a procedure for their respective models, but generically, go out to a relatively level stretch of deserted road, get up to 60 mph or so and smoothly, firmly brake back down to about 10 mph or so. Repeat this three or four times and then try and get the brakes to pulse. They should be go to go, but if your driving/braking habits are, not sure of the word here, but suffice it to say, you may need to do it a few more times.

The cause of the pulsing is an uneven layer of pad residue on your rotors. By bedding them you even it out. This transfer of pad material helps to lessen rotor wear and also to provide a "stickier" surface for the pads to grip.

Robert
 

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Watch your lug nut torque. If its 85 ftlb and tyre store torques to 100 ftlb it can warp your rotors. It happened to me! If you use left foot braking , That could wear your brakes out in under 3 months or cause warpage. Maybe haard/soft spots on rotors/drums can cause uneven wear? A draging caliper,Booster,mastercylinder, residual valve keeping the pads from releasing rotor ? Check for heat in front brakes with hand in lugnut area,If blisters form ,its way too hot! Just make sure its not leftfoot itist. Yeah, watch a couple of differant u-tubes on doing rotors. I use air/electric tools, its a lot easyer. I used armstrong tools for alot of years. Make sure you use a jackstand on solid ground that wont drop vehicle on leg. If rotors dont warp easyly, Then they just got BENT ?
 

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I went 140,000 on my rotors and they were still good, just wanted to go to drilled and slotted ones. Most warping is from people using and impact wrench on lug nuts causing uneven torque and over torque as the other person said. The job is very easy.
I have been in the repair business 54 years.
 

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It's dead easy for them to say..."Warped rotors!" and they get a cool and easy job putting on new ones.

If they really are out of shape they should have plenty of material left on them to give them a fresh machining, that should only take 0.020" off each surface and they should still have plenty left. Brake shops would do this, I'm sure.

But overall, the advice above is mostly good. Try the bedding-in, or even go over the surfaces with emery paper/cloth first and try that, then bed in. At just 20K they should be very easy to get off and on, if you don't have the tools go buy them, you'll use them again one day.
 

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Uneven torque on lug nuts definitely will warp a rotor. Were the tires previously rotated? A lot of shops are very careless about that. I can't remember how many times I had to use a breaker bar or jump on a lug nut wrench because some tire guy went crazy with an impact wrench and one or two did not want to come off. Most don't bother with a torque wrench or a torque stick on their impact wrench. On my O7 Ram 1500 the torque spec is 135 ft lbs. Leaving a lug or two at 80 or 90 could definitely do a number on a rotor. Your owner's manual says that if you change a flat, have the lug nuts tightened to spec with a torque wrench as soon as possible.

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Warpage due to rust

I've had 5 Rams since their intro in (I think 1995) and I also use them for a second vehicle so I don't put a ton of miles on them. Three of them have had what seems like warped rotors. (twice replaced at the dealer). The last time on my 2014 I put an indicator on the rotors and they had around .007"-.010" warp. When I went to take them off I had to use a large gear puller to get them off due to all the rust around the mating surfaces. (The dealer later told me that they use a big hammer to knock them off). When I replaced them, I put a thin layer of anti-seize on all the mating surfaces. My theory is that the warpage is coming from the rust buildup between the mating surfaces. I haven't had any issues since I started using the anti-seize. Just don't use too much, you don't want it on the braking surface.
 

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I've had rotors warp in 5000 miles. It has nothing to do with the vehicle and everything to do with the quality of manufacturing. However, some warpage is inevitable.
 
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